David Wile
Member
Hey folks,
I started using copper gas checks 50 years ago when they were cheap as dirt - less than $3 per thousand. At that time, primers powders and bullets were also dirt cheap. As years went by, gas checks and other components kept going up in price until they became quite a significant cost compared to the early years.
About four or five years ago, I heard about a way of making my own aluminum gas checks from empty soda cans with an inexpensive tool kit called FreeChex which was sold by a fellow named Charlie Darnall out in California. Considering the high price of copper gas checks, I decided to buy one of the FreeChex kits to see how they worked and also to see just how well the aluminum gas checks worked.
I bought a FreeChex tool set for .38 caliber bullets and started making gas checks for my .357 Mag. My .38 caliber tool set was the first version of the FreeChex line of gas check tools. It used a hardened steel hole punch to knock out aluminum discs from a soda can. After making a bunch of aluminum discs, each disc was placed in a die and then formed by placing a mandril on the disc and striking the mandril with a plastic mallet forming the gas check. I found I could sit in my recliner chair watching TV while I made my gas checks. I also do leather work and found I could make my gas checks using my flat stone surface covered with a 1/4 inch thick piece of hard rubber. It works well and makes perfect gas checks. I put my gas checks on the base of my bullets when I size and lube my bullets in a Lyman Lubrisizer, and they shoot just the same as my old expensive commercially made copper gas checks. What could be better?
Well, FreeChex II was a little better. After the first version of FreeChex became a success, Charlie Darnall kept working on it and came up with his next generation of gas check tool - the FreeChex II. It used a single die and mandril to both cut the disc and form the gas check. You cut your aluminum soda cans into half inch wide strips and stuck the strip in the slot of the die. The first strike of the plastic mallet cut the disc from the strip, then you would place a mandril in the die, and a second mallet strike on the mandril would form the disc.
Both FreeChex I and FreeChex II made the same high quality aluminum gas checks, but FreeChex II was a bit easier and faster in doing it. The FreeChex I cost between $25 and $30, and the FreeChex II was about $45. I ended up with two FreeChex I tool kits (.38 and .30 calibers) and two FreeChex II tool kits (.44 Mag and 45-70 calibers), and I still use all four sets to make my aluminum gas checks.
Before long, Charlie came out with his Freechex III tool set that works with a cheap Harbor Freight arbor press and makes checks faster than you can believe. Each cycle of the handle produces a finished check in one step, and the gas check falls through the bottom of the die to a collection pan. I never tried the FreeChex III, but there are some You Tube postings that show both the FreeChex II and the FreeChex III in use. One You Tube site shows a fellow feeding the FreeChes III from a continuous coil stock of half inch wide aluminum. You simply cannot believe how fast this guy produces gas checks.
The FreeChex III is to be used with a thicker material than soda can aluminum. It is recomended that you use either copper or aluminum flashing coil stock you can buy at Home Depot or lowes. I already have the tool sets for the four calibers I use, so I have not purchased the FreeChex III tool set. Besides, I find my gas checks made from scrap soda cans work perfectly, so I am not inclined to try the thicker gas check material. Watching the You Tube video of that guy punching out gas checks with the FreeChex III on that Harbor Freight press is almost enough to tempt me to sell one of my FreeChex I tool kits and buy a FreeChex III tool kit.
For those who question whether aluminum gas checks have aluminum oxide form on them and ruin my barrel, it simply is not true. Considering the aluminum is coated on both sides and then greased when the bullet is sized and lubed, there is no way for it to oxidize. You can use copper to make your gas checks, but I do like the idea of using scrap soda cans.
Best wishes,
Dave Wile
I started using copper gas checks 50 years ago when they were cheap as dirt - less than $3 per thousand. At that time, primers powders and bullets were also dirt cheap. As years went by, gas checks and other components kept going up in price until they became quite a significant cost compared to the early years.
About four or five years ago, I heard about a way of making my own aluminum gas checks from empty soda cans with an inexpensive tool kit called FreeChex which was sold by a fellow named Charlie Darnall out in California. Considering the high price of copper gas checks, I decided to buy one of the FreeChex kits to see how they worked and also to see just how well the aluminum gas checks worked.
I bought a FreeChex tool set for .38 caliber bullets and started making gas checks for my .357 Mag. My .38 caliber tool set was the first version of the FreeChex line of gas check tools. It used a hardened steel hole punch to knock out aluminum discs from a soda can. After making a bunch of aluminum discs, each disc was placed in a die and then formed by placing a mandril on the disc and striking the mandril with a plastic mallet forming the gas check. I found I could sit in my recliner chair watching TV while I made my gas checks. I also do leather work and found I could make my gas checks using my flat stone surface covered with a 1/4 inch thick piece of hard rubber. It works well and makes perfect gas checks. I put my gas checks on the base of my bullets when I size and lube my bullets in a Lyman Lubrisizer, and they shoot just the same as my old expensive commercially made copper gas checks. What could be better?
Well, FreeChex II was a little better. After the first version of FreeChex became a success, Charlie Darnall kept working on it and came up with his next generation of gas check tool - the FreeChex II. It used a single die and mandril to both cut the disc and form the gas check. You cut your aluminum soda cans into half inch wide strips and stuck the strip in the slot of the die. The first strike of the plastic mallet cut the disc from the strip, then you would place a mandril in the die, and a second mallet strike on the mandril would form the disc.
Both FreeChex I and FreeChex II made the same high quality aluminum gas checks, but FreeChex II was a bit easier and faster in doing it. The FreeChex I cost between $25 and $30, and the FreeChex II was about $45. I ended up with two FreeChex I tool kits (.38 and .30 calibers) and two FreeChex II tool kits (.44 Mag and 45-70 calibers), and I still use all four sets to make my aluminum gas checks.
Before long, Charlie came out with his Freechex III tool set that works with a cheap Harbor Freight arbor press and makes checks faster than you can believe. Each cycle of the handle produces a finished check in one step, and the gas check falls through the bottom of the die to a collection pan. I never tried the FreeChex III, but there are some You Tube postings that show both the FreeChex II and the FreeChex III in use. One You Tube site shows a fellow feeding the FreeChes III from a continuous coil stock of half inch wide aluminum. You simply cannot believe how fast this guy produces gas checks.
The FreeChex III is to be used with a thicker material than soda can aluminum. It is recomended that you use either copper or aluminum flashing coil stock you can buy at Home Depot or lowes. I already have the tool sets for the four calibers I use, so I have not purchased the FreeChex III tool set. Besides, I find my gas checks made from scrap soda cans work perfectly, so I am not inclined to try the thicker gas check material. Watching the You Tube video of that guy punching out gas checks with the FreeChex III on that Harbor Freight press is almost enough to tempt me to sell one of my FreeChex I tool kits and buy a FreeChex III tool kit.
For those who question whether aluminum gas checks have aluminum oxide form on them and ruin my barrel, it simply is not true. Considering the aluminum is coated on both sides and then greased when the bullet is sized and lubed, there is no way for it to oxidize. You can use copper to make your gas checks, but I do like the idea of using scrap soda cans.
Best wishes,
Dave Wile