"Managed Recoil" ammo for 3" SP-101 in .357?

[W.E.G.]

If you want "managed recoil" in a .357, you can shoot .38 Special wadcutters, and move up from there if the wadcutters seem too mild.

Regarding "the ring," Flitz paste and elbow grease with a Lewis Lead remover kit will remove it for certain. Not that you need to completely remove the ring though. The Lewis Lead Remover kit will take care of enough of the ring that .357 cases won't hang up. But you won't want to be going back-and-forth between .38 wadcutters and .357 a lot. Because running the Lewis Lead Remover is a bit of a chore. I wouldn't want to do it weekly.

 

[Dogleg7]

Another load that I have used is a hollow base lead wadcutter. Seat the bullet with the hollow base out. This produces an extreme hollow point and when loaded in 357 brass the entire bullet is inside the brass. Added feature is that this load will not penetrate multiple walls if you have to shoot inside your home.

 

[Smaug]

Are your guns stainless or blued?

I have the 3” SP-101, which is stainless, and the 4” S&W 19, which is blued.

 

[fxvr5]

I have the 3” SP-101, which is stainless, and the 4” S&W 19, which is blued.

Thank you.

First thing - - - that carbon crap can be completely removed. As suggested, a little effort might be required. And a good solvent.

The solvent I use is Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover. I selected it because it has no smell, not because it's magic. It might be magic, but probably not. I will only recommend this procedure with this solvent, because I know this solvent works for this task, but I don’t know how other solvents would work or if they might damage/stain the cylinder/finish. I've only tried this with the Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover.

But when the solvent has had enough time to work, the carbon wipes off with a paper towel. No scrubbing is required. Even the burned on stuff at the front of the cylinder. And the cylinder and chambers are so clean it looks like it has never been fired.

Here is a suggestion for your stainless gun. Put a cleaning patch in each chamber - or try it in one chamber to see how it goes. Soak the patch(s) with Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover solvent. Let it sit for several hours/overnight. Add solvent as necessary to make sure they stay soaked with solvent. Remember, if you use any solvent other than Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover you might get different results or damage/stain your stainless steel. Use a different solvent at your own risk.

I use this on S&W and Ruger stainless steel guns.

Once again - use at your own risk.

 

[Smaug]

Thanks fxvr5, I’ll pick up some of that solvent.