Manual Safety for SIG-Sauer Classic Series from Custom Gunsmith

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Anthony

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Several years ago I read about a very slick manual safety for SIG-Sauer Classic series pistols that a custom gunsmith (who specialized in SIGs) had developed. Later I also read that the SIG factory confirmed that the installation of this safety did not void the factory warranty.

Does anyone know who this custom gunsmith is and if he still offers this option?

Does anyone actually have this safety installed on their own SIGs? If yes, how do you like it?

On what basis does the safety work (e.g., crossbolt)?

I shot a P-220 over the weekend and am seriously considering buying one.

- Anthony
 
Why? Why would you want to alter a safe pistol by adding an unproven external safety?
Seems to me that all those faithful fans of the classic SIG P-series pistol can't be all wrong about its inherent safety.
 
I carry a Sig P225 with one in the pipe and the mag. topped off IWB all the time. Its already a very safe pistol. I can't understand why you would want to add a manual safety too. Sigs are DA/SA. If you have one in the pipe and decock the hammer with the decocking lever the gun is in DA mode. The trigger pull in DA is long and heavy( Trigger pull is between 20 and 24 lb., IIRC) Unless you pull the trigger to fire the gun the firing pin and hammer are both locked in place. Good luck with TJs Custom Gun Works.
 
Man, I jumped all over this one, a Sig Sauer P220 with cocked and locked option would chase all other non-1911 .45 ACPs right up a tree. And put a dent in the 1911 business.

But then I read the TJ's material. He puts in a crossbolt safety primarily for weapon retention struggles. I don't know if he means for it to be left engaged for a "uncocked and locked" carry like Ayoob recommends for Berettas, or if he means for you to punch the button as a last ditch defense if somebody makes a grab for your gun. But it is not what I was interested in.

Monacan Man, if you have a 20 pound trigger pull, that gun needs some help. Sig Sauer will pull it down to around 10-12, and a good gunsmith can get it under 10. Teddy Jacobson - not to be confused with TJ - did a nice job on mine.
 
I'm not so sure...

I mean, I have a USP .45 and it's nice, but the controls are kind of schitzophrenic. If you carry in DA, do you need the safety? If you carry in condition 1, do you need the decocker?

A P220 with a cocked and locked feature will put other .45 manufacturers out of business just like a single stack full sized Glock in .45. If you like Glocks as much as Sigs, you'll understand.

I mean, I can see the reason for DA w/decocker. I can see the reason for SA in condition 1. I can see the reason for DAO (or safe action or whatever).

The DA w/ decocker AND safety is a little excessive (and this coming from a USP fan). At least with the USP you get to try out the full range of possibilities (DAO, SA, DA, safety, decocker, none, etc) The only reason I've ever used the decocker is to practice the DA first shot in case I accidently decock while swiping the safety off in condition 1. Otherwise, I don't see a reason to decock (for me). If I carried DA, I'd go with SIGlike controls.
 
The trigger pull in DA is long and heavy( Trigger pull is between 20 and 24 lb., IIRC)

MonacanMan, I think you're confusing the hammer spring weight with the trigger pull weight. The factory hammer springs run from 20-24 lbs, according to Wolff, but that doesn't translate directly to the trigger pull.
 
Yeah, I got overenthused.
A Glock single stack 4.5" .45 would be good; as would a single stack .45 H&K overall size in between standard and compact. Notice the common thread? A Commander is both big enough and small enough; other makes could do similarly. A double column .45 is the answer to a question I did not ask.

I looked at the USP at the NRA show the year it came out. It was too easy to swipe a Variant 1's lever from "Safe" all the way through "Fire" and get to "Decock" when you thought you were getting ready to shoot SA. I told the rep that "Decock" should be UP from "Safe" both to avoid that problem and so that you did not have to pass through "Fire" when you wanted to decock. He just sniffed and moved on to the next prospect. I noticed the production guns had a stronger detent and had no problem with inadvertent decocking with mine. But it was just too broad in the beam for my hands, so I traded it off. Pity, it was mechanically accurate and reliable, just hard to handle.
 
Yep, I mis-stated....I did mean the power of the main spring...my bad. Sorry if I caused any confusion. Thanks for the correction.:uhoh:

I just did a trigger job on my P225 a few days ago. It has lightened up the DA trigger pull ...I intend to put a weaker mainspring in some time in the future to lighten it some more.
Again, Sorry for the error. :banghead:
 
I looked at the USP at the NRA show the year it came out. It was too easy to swipe a Variant 1's lever from "Safe" all the way through "Fire" and get to "Decock" when you thought you were getting ready to shoot SA.
Jim: You can easily get it swapped to safety-only (no decock). I think HK calls that Variant 9.
 
Well, it could have been changed to V9. I don't know how easily, not as many H&K armorers around here as Glock plumbers.
Like I said, it was not a problem on the production gun, although the lack of thoughfulness annoyed me. And I wanted the V1 selective DA - SA start to fool with. I HAVE a good 1911 for pure cocked and locked. But the dam' thing was just too bulky for my hands. Too big a butt, too long a reach to trigger, safety, and slide stop. So I traded it off. Like I said, a P220 with a real thumb safety would be nearly as good a gun for my use as a nice 1911, the which is harder to find and costs more.
 
Why have a schitzo safety?.....WHY NOT? :D
The Varient 1 HK and Taurus safety mechanism...should come standard on all guns......Carry Cond 1 when you want...decock it when you want. Choices and options are what makes guns great. How would you like the choice of a Ruger s/auto or a Ruger s/auto?....see what I mean.
Shoot well
 
Why would you want to alter a safe pistol by adding an unproven external safety?

Because the DA pull is too long and heavy--to the point where it precludes my buying a 220, which I would buy in an instant if I could use it SA with no decrease in reliability.
 
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