Marlin 1889 Rifle in .38 WCF

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I recently sold off some safe queens which resulted in me having a pile of fun money to spend. I used some of it to buy a Marlin 1889 rifle chambered in .38 WCF (AKA .38-40).

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The 1889 was the first side-ejecting Marlin lever action. Following Marlin designs are basically refinements of the 1889. It was manufactured from 1889 until it was replaced by the 1894, but Marlin continued to sell new 1889s made from existing stocks of parts until 1903. Around 55,000 were sold in this time.

The rifle I bought was made in 1890. The wood is sound with most of the original finish remaining, alongside a nice assortment of dings. There are a couple chips but nothing serious. The metal is in decent shape for a 130 year old rifle that obviously saw quite a bit of use.

The bore is in good shape except for some crud or rust down near the throat. Otherwise there's no major pitting and the crown is in good shape.

Pretty much all the screws show signs of disassembly using improperly fitting screwdrivers.

The "JM" proofmark is on the bottom of the barrel, covered by the forearm. The blue under the forearm looks like it was made last week, even though the rest of the metal has turned brown.

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The barrel is marked with the caliber, ".38 W" on top near the breach. It's largely worn away there since that's the balance point, and I suspect that's where it was carried in the field.

The barrel markings and the "Marlin Safety" stamp on top of the receiver are in good shape.

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I detail stripped the rifle after receiving on Friday. There was some dirt and crud but not a whole lot. I did find that the half cock notch on the hammer is damaged with a chip out of it. It will hold at half cock but can be pushed off. So, that will need to be fixed.

Before taking the rifle to a friend's house to shoot it, I ran some functioning dummies through it. Unfortunately, it seems to have a variant of the "Marlin jam" due to wear and tear. I was able to get it to feed a couple rounds from the magazine by loosening the front screw holding the front the trigger plate to the bottom of the receiver. Doing so apparently allows the magazine spring to push rounds onto the elevator. Obviously, this isn't a long term solution.

The Lyman Cast Bullet Handbook (48th Ed.) classes the Marlin 1889 along with the Winchester 1892 and Marlin 1894 are a "Group 2" action for strength. I have no plans to hot rod the gun but because the bolt and locking block are in good condition, I have no compunctions about firing full black powder equivalent loads through it, whether loaded with black or smokeless.

Anyway, I put around 30 rounds of Ultramax .38 WCF cowboy action loads through it yesterday. As long as I put no more than 3 rounds in the magazine it fed OK. We shot it offhand at about 25 yards and got accuracy comparable to my .38 WCF Uberti 1866 Sporting Rifle firing the same ammo.

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Point of impact was another story. It shoots about 8" high at 25 yards with the rear sight on the lowest notch. It needs a higher front sight. This also gives me an excuse to install something that my 52 year old eyes can see better than the original German silver blade. (Don't fret, if I change out the sights I'll keep the originals.)

My next steps are to try to get it to feed reliably. It might just need a stronger magazine spring to force the rounds onto the carrier, so that's an easy thing to try. If not, I'll have to get ahold of a gunsmith familiar with Marlins.

As for the hammer, I'll need to get a gunsmith to TIG up the half cock notch and recut it. I'm open to recommendations.

Hopefully I'll be able to get the rifle up and running so I can use it for deer hunting.
 
Nice gun, how long is the barrel?

My 1889 Winchester '73 is also chambered in .38-40, nice cartridge. I load mild versions with Trailboss, cases seem to last forever.
 
@Speedo66 The barrel is 24" long.

For smokeless in .38 WCF and .44 WCF, I use Hodgdon Universal Clays, Alliant Unique, or Alliant Reloder 7. I'd like to try Herco at some point. I have some IMR-4227 which is also supposed to work well.

Most of my .44 WCF is loaded with black powder. If I can get a good bullet that carries enough lube, I'll load .38 WCF with BP as well.
 
Great post, Dave....I love working with some of the old caliber too: .25-20, 32-20, .44-40, and the subject of your recent acquisition, the .38-40. Thanks for posting, it brings back some memories. I haven't had my Marlin out in over 10 years, and now that deer season is over here in KY, I'll give her some much needed range time.

I have the same Marlin 1889 in .38-40 but the pistol gripped, rifle stock, version. Serial number dates it to 1892 and it was lovingly re-done by a fairly talented gunsmith, unknown to me. I found it at a Louisville gun show 23 years ago and gave, $600 for it. It's fitted with a 24" bbl...and I added a Lyman or Marbles vintage tang peep to the top strap.

Hand loading for it was a bit of a challenge...as Marlin routinely over-bored their rifle groove diameters back in the days of black powder, counting on bump up from the black powder/soft lead effect.

Mine has a good bbl. but is over size. It takes nearly a 0.406" cast bullet to fill the grooves. Hornady's swagged 180 gr TWC did well, however, even with its undersized 0.401" dia. Using mild loads of Unique, Herco, and SR4759 I got groups that hovered around 2" at 50 yds from the porch rail rest I use.

Velocities chrono'd at ~1200 fps kept groups down close to 2" at 50 yds with the tang sight. I had Rapine molds make up an aluminum mold of the turn of the century bullet in .406" dia as cast from 50-50 wheel weights / lead, but found that the ball seat was too tight and I couldn't chamber the rounds. The cure was to open up the seat to accept the bigger bullet as well as reaming the RCBS dies for the sizing and seating operations. Never got around to it however.

Phoenix bullets 180 gr TWC (a much harder alloyed commercial bullet for the 10mm & .40 S&W) also shot well, but again with reduced velocities. Pushing it past 1300 fps just opened groups to over 6". The same three powders worked well, as did Winchester 231 at about the same weight of charge. Unique with a tuft of dacron to hold it in place against the primer did well in loads from 6.0 to 7.5 grains, giving ~1200 to 1300 fps. Seemed like the closer I stayed to 1200 fps, the better the groups with this bullet and Hornady's 180 swagged offering.

Magnum Bullets' 180 gr FP, another hard alloyed commercial bullet, did as well, when velocities were kept down. The rifle's oversize bore, with these undersized (0.401") lead alloy bullets is the problem. I didn't work with any jacketed bullets nor had any factory loads to try, and these my allow better accuracy with a little more speed. But in reality, why push these old warriors...they were built with soft steel, and matched the velocities of the .44-40 & .45-70. The gun is a beauty, and fun to shoot, but limited in usefulness beyond target punching .

Here are some pics...the loads are with Hornady's swagged 180 .40 S&W bullet....work up to the load if interested after consulting a GOOD loading manual...Rod

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This morning I ordered replacement for most of the boogered screws, but unfortunately Numrich was OOS of the tang screw. I'll try to match the rifle's patina using some Laurel Mountain Forge cold browning solution on the new screw heads.

I also ordered a reproduction magazine spring. I'm hoping that along with a full cleaning of the magazine tube it will resolve the feeding issue.
 
It sounds like you've got a good shooter there, Dave...have you slugged the bore for its diameter? Also, the Ultramax cowboy cartridges you used factory cartridges when you shot the other day...any leading issues?

When I bought mine, it had an antique folding front sight. It consisted of a thin ring, approx. 1/4" in dia. surrounding a very small bead (1/32") on a post. The bead/post could be folded down on the barrel, with a thicker square post in an "L" configuration, which simultaneously folded up into position. Neither were anywhere close to the elevation I needed so I found an early single blade with ivory insert on the shooter side of the correct height.

I like peep sights in general, and especially so on lever guns. All of mine have one sort or another, receiver of Williams or Lyman variety, a Skinner on an 1894 Marlin .41 Mag., a Williams WGRS on an 1894 .357 and three different tangs on a Model 94 Winchester .30-30 & .32 Special, and a Model 62 Winchester .22 Pump.

With the modern Marlins, top drilled for scope mounts, I work up my loads with a 2.5 or 4x Leupold Alaskan scope mounted. It's a nice combination, the 7/8" tube dia. of the Leupold not overpowering the slim lines of the lever's receiver. At 74, my eyes aren't what they used to be, but a good peep still allows me to get a solid front sight focus with my glasses on. For close in, stand deer hunting, out to 60-70 yds, I really like the .44 & .41 Marlin with the peep. A dab of white out typewriter correction fluid (dead flat white...no reflections!) or finger nail polish really helps in the early am.

I'm dithering on here, but really interested in your progress on the .38-40. Keep posting...there are plenty of us out here in the weeds with a love for the old lever guns.

BTW, I looked up Plymouth Meeting...we used to live in Flemington, NJ when I was flying out of Newark for People Express...we now live NE of Louisville on a small farm...but I grew up S of Buffalo and hunted on the Pennsy border E of Olean, near Friendship; back when it was shotgun only. Big deer up there, compared to our KY whitetails...a bragger here is anything over 125 lbs.

Lastly, I've got a few tang screws of varying condition, but Winchesters, if you need 'em...what size? Don't know if the shaft dia./thread count is the same tho.

Best Regards, Rod
 
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I haven't slugged the bore as yet, and no sign of leading with the Ultramax loads. I don't know what BHN bullets they use but they are too hard to scratch with my fingernail. They are loaded pretty lightly, however.

The rifle has been sitting for a couple days with Ballistol in the bore. On my lunch break today I pushed a couple dry patches through and they came out black. I followed up with a couple patches with a little bit of Flitz metal polish on them (in lieu of JB Bore Paste), and then wiped that out, and now it's soaking in Kroil.

The rough area in front of the chamber appears to be pitted. I need to dig out my bore scope to be certain, but I don't think it's just buildup of crud. That said, from about 2" in front of the chamber to the muzzle it's in pretty good shape so the pitting shouldn't affect accuracy.

Thanks for the offer of the tang screws, but I'm going to hold out for the correct part, or maybe make on on my lathe.

Once the rifle is in proper shooting shape I'll look into getting a tang sight, since it's drilled and tapped for one.
 
I've had good to excellent accuracy out of mine, despite the oversize bore and bullet seat, so long as I've kept the velocities down, as I recall. I shot it yesterday with those hard cast commercial bullets, loaded on the light side, and it's still got the accuracy. 25 degree weather with some gusty wind and it still shot to the sights at 50 yds, on my plates, and looked like about 2" for 3-shots.

I spent some time fiddling around with some 180 gr. Hornady .40 cal. jacketed flat points yesterday. No canelure of course, but I found my old C-H canelure tool in the parts bin (used it 25 yrs ago to put canelures on .30 Luger 93 gr FMJ's from Midway...in an attempt to keep them from telescoping when feeding...some success there too.) Anyway the .40/180's are a hellofa lot easier to canelure than those tiny .30 Luger slugs. I loaded a dozen of them backed by 6.0 gr of Win 231 but didn't get a chance to try 'em out. Good wx today, tho cold and I'll shoot later this am. Should be a mild load according to QuickLoad and an old Lyman loading handbook from the '60s.

I'm not crazy about jacketed bullets through that ancient bore with its soft steel, but for 'once in awhile' it's probably ok. I'm low on wheel weights now, but intend to do some casting for it later this month.

I've never used Flitz on a bore, but have done good work on old Springfield and Krag barrels with J-B Bore past, and Ed's Red after they were pretty well cleaned out. Cosmoline...ah...the soldier's friend! After clean up, I try to keep them up to snuf with some Kroil...wiping dry before shooting...and have had no problem with group movement.

The rough area in your throat are may not be a problem as you pointed out. Certainly not with jacketed bullets, and really, not with cast, in my experience, so long as they sorta fit the groove. I've not had build up of lead there even with with a Trap Door Springield .45-70 built in 1884. The throat was pretty dark, but the remainder of that old cannon, looked pretty good.

Thanks for the response, I'll drop a post on my end with results...Rod
 
180 gr. Hornady .40 cal. jacketed flat points with 6.0 gr of Win 231 worked out well. ~1.5" 5-shot groups off the porch rail at 30 yds. They do have a 'hollow' sound when fired however. QuickLoad estimates this load at 1169 fps for the 24" bbl. with a peak pressure reading of 11,700 psi, well under the cartridge's SAMMI MAP limit of 16,679 psi.

The C-H tool cut the canelure just fine, resulting in an overall cartridge length of 1.580". The loaded rounds cycle well in the old Marlin and show no signs of pressure whatsoever. Also tried them out to 75 yds on one of my 6x6" tie plates and got solid hits and a little under 3" group for all shots. It's a nice load for this old rifle. I was using the open, barrel mounted sight, and I'm thinking the tang peep should tighten groups a little more. Best Regards, Rod
 
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A quick update:

Today I finished cleaning the inside of the magazine tube, polished the follower with some 4-0 steel wool, and replaced the magazine spring along with a few boogered screws. The rifle now appears to feed fine. The one major remaining issue is the chipped half cock notch.

I still need to bench it at 50 yards to confirm POI. The last time I shot it, it was high, but I was shooting offhand. I want to eliminate as many variables as possible. If it's shooting high I'll either add a taller front sight or carefully file down the rear and enlarge the notch, since it's tiny and I'm north of 50.
 
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