Marlin 1894C Fodder

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Greetings:

I just obtained a Marlin 1894C .357 lever action.
I love it already!

My understanding is that although both .357 and .38spl can be fired through it, certain types of cartridge shouldn't be used with it,
especially anything pointy that carries a primer-strike risk to the round sitting ahead of it. (detonation hazard)

Can someone shed some light on what I should or shouldn't feed it?

Thanks....
 
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I can't think of any "pointy" factory loads. The rifle is pretty solid. If you have any problems it could be feeding wadcutters or semi-wadcutters. But any jacketed bullet is fine.

FYI, 125gr Remington JHP and JSP from Wal-mart are pretty impressive loads (power wise), and of course 158gr JHP's provide maximum penetration.
 
I have limited experience shooting 38 spl in my marlin but what I have has not been good. They don't seem to feed as well as 357. The first round I attempted to fire was a 38 special and it jammed in feeding to where I had to disassemble the gun to clear it. The accuracy was not good either. Also shooting 38 spl will build up more crud in the chamber. So I just don't shoot 38 special in mine.
 
Can someone shed some light on what I should or shouldn't feed it?

about the only round that has given me pause is the remington 130gr mc. it is a round nose fmj. i'm not sure if it qualifies as "pointy" enough, but the hard jacket is in contact with the primer in front of it. the recoil of the 38 special won't initiate a magazine chainfire, but a dropped rifle might.

the defacto warning about mixing 357 mag and 38 special aplies. the firing of 38 specials in your rifle will leave a ring of soot, carbon, and lead farther back in the chamber than the 357. firing 38's, then switching to 357's might lead to difficulty in chambering or extraction. the solution is to clean your chamber after the use of 38's.

as far as the actual ammo goes, if it feads and goes bang, go for it. i'm not sure about the various high zoot 110gr 357. i'm not sure how they would stabilize in your 1:16 twist rifle. buy a box or borrow a few from a budy and see. if they stabilize, it might make an entertaining varmit round, but be about useless on anything else. a bit of a novelty and little else.

generaly, in a rifle, the heavier the better. the various 158gr semi or fully jacketed hollow or soft points are going to be your bread and butter. my personal favorite is a stout factory 158gr jsp.

for max penetration a 158, 170, or 180gr fmjtc or hard cast lead is called for. several manufactures make both jacketed and hc lead hunting ammo in 170 and 180gr. sellier and bellot makes a 158gr fmjtc that i really like. it's full power, inexpensive and quite accurate. unfortunatly, it is illegal to hunt big game in many states, oregon included, with a fmj bullet, or i would use it on deer knowing it would have no difficulty in zipping through a shoulder or rib bone to reach the vitals.
 
I have some .357 with a headstamp of GFL/OFL (not sure which). The bullets appear to be a copper jacketed truncated cone. Not sure if that's considered "pointy" but I'll take a pass nonetheless.
The .38spl I plan on using are all American Eagle, not reloaded or remanufactured 158 grain FMJ that I buy for $10/box from a local distributor.
This is strictly a target/fun gun. I don't have the time or inclination to go hunting.
 
I'm waiting for warm weather; going to work up a .357 magnum load for my Marlin using 148 grain DEWC bullets and probably Power Pistol or AA#7 powder. (DEWC bullet takes up too much room in the case to use 2400 or W296.) The dummy rounds loaded to about 1.35" OAL feed really well.
 
as far as the actual ammo goes, if it feads and goes bang, go for it. i'm not sure about the various high zoot 110gr 357. i'm not sure how they would stabilize in your 1:16 twist rifle.
Why, pray tell, would they not stabilize? The longer, heavier bullets do.
 
Quote:
Originally Posted by jakk280rem
as far as the actual ammo goes, if it feads and goes bang, go for it. i'm not sure about the various high zoot 110gr 357. i'm not sure how they would stabilize in your 1:16 twist rifle.
Why, pray tell, would they not stabilize? The longer, heavier bullets do.

The .38spl I plan on using are all American Eagle, not reloaded or remanufactured 158 grain FMJ that I buy for $10/box from a local distributor.

like i said, any bullet should work as long as it doesn't contact the primer of the cartridge loaded in front of it in the magazine. a fmj with a truncated cone or flat nose profile bullet will be fine, but a round nose fmj might spell trouble. as mild of a recoil impulse as the 38 special has in a 6 pound rifle, you could probably load and fire thousands of rounds of rn fmj without issue, but a hard jacket in contact with a primer, combined with the pressure of a fully compressed magazine spring could be an issue.
 
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Do not feed it wadcutters .... semi wadcutters are fine .... maybe even ideal ..... wad cutters will jam
 
I owned a Marlin 1894Cs .357 a good many years ago. Its Microgroove rifling delivered very nice groups with jacketed bullets. Finding cast bullet loads that would deliver comparable groups and not lead-up the bore in short order was such an exasperating process that I ended up passing it along. It did, however, always function quite reliably with about any .357 or .38 spl. ammo with the exception of full WCs. I understand that the newer 1984s with Ballard-type rifling do quite well with cast projectiles.

The .357 carbines I replaced that Marlin with are a treasured IMI Timberwolf pump and two pre-Taurus Rossi 1892 replicas (standard 20" bbl and 16" Trapper). These work extremely well for me with my standard general use handload of a 158 gr. LSWC over 5.0 gr. of Unique in .357 cases and CCI 500 or WW Small Pistol primers.

The manual from my Timberwolf specifically cautions against the use of RN or other FMJ ammo in it. The much less detailed Rossi one doesn't, but as a matter of personal policy I don't use FMJ or 'pointy' JSP/JHP projectiles in any tubular magazine carbine or rifle (one exception: an elderly Remington 141 pump in .35 Remington which has a spiral groove impressed in the mag tube to offset the spire-point noses of factory 150 gr. JSP ammo from the primer of the preceeding rd.) regardess of chambering.

Just one old fart's opinion, but with so many other available options out there why take an unnecessary risk just to save a few cents per round? IIWY, I'd relegate any use of those 130-150 gr. .38 Spl. FMJs to revolvers only.
 
I have an 1894c I've been shooting quite a bit lately. It has been good with any of the jacketed rounds I have tried , both SP and HP. For cast stuff it prefers RNFP. It will hang up feeding SWC's. Not tried any full wad cutters - if it don't like SWC, it's not gonna like WC. It also shoot's .38's just as well as .357's.

My 2cent.
 
First of all, does anyone know of an actual case of a tube magazine blowing up because a bullet tip set off a primer? At least since fulminate of mercury primers went out of fashion over 100 years ago.
I thought so!

Second of all, the only truly pointy .357 or .38 Spl ammo I know of is the Hornady LEVERevolution .357 soft-polymer tip stuff.
It is specifically made to be safe in lever-action tube magazines.

Third of all, Remington has loaded 30-30 & .35 Rem round-nose ammo for about 100 years, and it is more pointy and kicks harder then any .357 carbine ammo.

Bottom line, don't fret about it.

rc
 
mine feeds 357's better than 38's (mostly when cycling the action fast) and chokes on semi-wadcutters. I feed it almost exclusively lead bullets, and anything without the wadcutter lip around the edge ran fine. (round nose, RNFP, TC)

it's a fun gun, enjoy.
 
Mine will feed wadcutters just fine in .357 Magnum brass. .38 wadcutters are too short (unless I crimp them over the lube groove, which gives the same OAL as using .357 brass)
 
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