Marlin 336 action
- Thread starter Mentokk1
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Salmoneye
Member
If you are talking a new gun, then cycle it a couple thousand times by hand, and go from there...This is often all a new gun needs to smooth out nicely...
If this does not help, then what you suggest has been done...Go s l o w l y and check repeatedly...
The guys in the Smithy section here might be able to help, and if not the guys at MarlinOwners.com surely can...
http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/
If this does not help, then what you suggest has been done...Go s l o w l y and check repeatedly...
The guys in the Smithy section here might be able to help, and if not the guys at MarlinOwners.com surely can...
http://www.marlinowners.com/forum/
Abel
Member
MrDig
Member
I would say that sanding it is overkill and Polishing it would the first thing I would try. Unless you have checked everything with a micrometer and know that parts are out of tolerance sanding them will take too much material off.
I have a tendency to apply jewelers rouge and polish parts first to see if it smooths out the action.
The link provided is an excellent example of what I am talking about.
I have a tendency to apply jewelers rouge and polish parts first to see if it smooths out the action.
The link provided is an excellent example of what I am talking about.
Red Cent
Member
There are a number of parts/surfaces that can be relieved to provide a smooth and rather soft action.
Any pump or lever action rifle suffers from a factory hammer. Go get the tune up kit consisting of a one-piece firing pin, a hammer spring, and a lever spring.
If you lighten the hammer spring, the one piece firing pin is a must. The 336 has a two piece firing pin with a leaf spring riding on top like a bridge between the two. That spring pushes the small rear piece of the firing pin down in a space when the lever is opened. Presumably to prevent from someone leaning over and hitting the firing pin with a hammer (kidding). It also presses down on the rear of the large piece creating one heck of a drag on both pieces
Freeing up the firing pin will allow a lot of hammer tension reduction. I cut coils but the kit is better for a novice.
.
When you close the lever, the lever bar raises a somewhat U shaped block into the aforementioned space and aligns the firing pin pieces. The U shaped block also is a breech block.
There is no "recoil" or "pressure spring" around either firing pin.
Lever the action. Stiff huh? Leave the hammer cocked and cycle the action. Nice, huh? The kit hammer spring will take care of some of that.
Cycle the action and pay attention to the final 2"s of travel before lockup of the lever. See the little beveled "cap". The cap is pinned and there is a STRONG small spring under there. Replace it and round the cap. Don't take metal off the top. You will be amazed how easy it will close. I cut coils here also.
A person who does action jobs MUST have one of those all purpose tools. Take 600 grit with the tool and polish any where you see a rub mark. Just polish. Where the lever is held by the screw is one. Don't sand the top of the hammer. A piece of 800-1000 grit paper and polish.
I have a 336 Marlin 1895 CB in 38-55. I have done th above and it is sweet.
Follow the bouncing ball.
http://marauder.homestead.com/files/tuning_m_1894.htm
Any pump or lever action rifle suffers from a factory hammer. Go get the tune up kit consisting of a one-piece firing pin, a hammer spring, and a lever spring.
If you lighten the hammer spring, the one piece firing pin is a must. The 336 has a two piece firing pin with a leaf spring riding on top like a bridge between the two. That spring pushes the small rear piece of the firing pin down in a space when the lever is opened. Presumably to prevent from someone leaning over and hitting the firing pin with a hammer (kidding). It also presses down on the rear of the large piece creating one heck of a drag on both pieces
Freeing up the firing pin will allow a lot of hammer tension reduction. I cut coils but the kit is better for a novice.
.
When you close the lever, the lever bar raises a somewhat U shaped block into the aforementioned space and aligns the firing pin pieces. The U shaped block also is a breech block.
There is no "recoil" or "pressure spring" around either firing pin.
Lever the action. Stiff huh? Leave the hammer cocked and cycle the action. Nice, huh? The kit hammer spring will take care of some of that.
Cycle the action and pay attention to the final 2"s of travel before lockup of the lever. See the little beveled "cap". The cap is pinned and there is a STRONG small spring under there. Replace it and round the cap. Don't take metal off the top. You will be amazed how easy it will close. I cut coils here also.
A person who does action jobs MUST have one of those all purpose tools. Take 600 grit with the tool and polish any where you see a rub mark. Just polish. Where the lever is held by the screw is one. Don't sand the top of the hammer. A piece of 800-1000 grit paper and polish.
I have a 336 Marlin 1895 CB in 38-55. I have done th above and it is sweet.
Follow the bouncing ball.
http://marauder.homestead.com/files/tuning_m_1894.htm
Red Cent
Member
PS: The 336 is simple to take apart. The trigger assembly drops out, the bolt drops out (the ejector is in a slot on the left inside of the receiver), the carrier drops out and that is about it after you remove screws. Watch where they go. With the tutorial, my novelette, and my e-mail/pmail, go for it. It is rather easy.
You really can't over polish. I guess the bolt shouldn't be changed much. The 336 can be made to be loose and smooth. I have an 1873 that you can shake and put a baby to sleep.
You really can't over polish. I guess the bolt shouldn't be changed much. The 336 can be made to be loose and smooth. I have an 1873 that you can shake and put a baby to sleep.
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