Why are lever actions so rough?

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My new Puma .44 mag smooth as butter I can shoot all 10+1 rounds almost as fast as a semi-auto so easy to crank the lever action .
 
So nice, in fact, that they'll convince you to try out the classic intro to The Rifleman.

One tiny caveat...don't try that with a full-length Marlin 336. You will only smack yourself in the face with it.

Never mind HOW I know, I just know....OW! QUIT IT!
 
My 1978 vintage Marlin 336 is pretty smooth, so is my early-90s Winchester 9422. The EMF/Rossi 1892 I used to own was very smooth.

But the smoothest levergun I ever worked was a Browning Model 1895 in .30-40 Krag, one of the limited edition guns they made in the 80s or 90s. It almost worked itself.
 
All one has to do is sit in front of the T.V. w/ an empty weapon and work the action for 30 min. a night for a few days and it will smooth it's self out.

That's not only true, but it's free and superior to a Smith attempting to grind down the rough spots.

With this method you get an exact smooth action job. Only the parts that have friction are worn down. All a Smith job is doing is prematurely grinding down parts. In the long run it makes for a looser rifle with many less years of service.

All of this is of course assuming that the rifle is almost there.

And of course this is not to discount other services that Smiths provide.
 
My Navy Arms 92 is slicker than owl snot. I put some springs in it and did a little polishing and now it almost cycles its self.
 
Most of what one feels as roughness (unless they have a bad rifle) is the force required to cock and ride over the hammer. This is especially true of the marlins.
 
I've found that older Marlin 336's, say 70 and earlier, are quite smooth especially if they have a few miles on them.
 
Most of what one feels as roughness (unless they have a bad rifle) is the force required to cock and ride over the hammer. This is especially true of the marlins.

I'd put reduced power springs in mine, but I want absolute reliability- my 336 is my fighting rifle at this time.
 
[QUOTE = 351 Winchester]Most of what one feels as roughness (unless they have a bad rifle) is the force required to cock and ride over the hammer. This is especially true of the marlins.[/QUOTE]

Same with mine, Got a 336 SS. There is about 1/8th" give in the hammer left before it is drawn all the way down. There is a hole in the back of the bolt that catches the hammer. Then there is this little bump that also catches. The most part that it the rides over the hole in the back of the bolt though.

Should one shave off the top of the hammer?

cavman
 
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