Marlin 39A: FTF questions

[AStone]

I took my "new" Marlin 39A to the range today for the second time, this time with its new scope. (Leupold VX-I 2-7X28mm). Bore sighted it, started sighting in at 25 m.

Then, a problem began: several failure to fire. Five out of about 100 rnds. Sporadic.

I experienced no FTF on the first trip with it last week.

The first three FTF were with American Eagle. I thought, maybe this rifle just doesn't like it. (I don't think I used any of them first time.)

But when I switched to CCI minimags, I got two more.

Unfortunately, on eject (and I was trying to be careful), the first three bounced under the (occupied) station next to me, the floor of which was littered with a LOT of brass. I didn't retrieve them.

The last two, CCI, I managed to keep. They had been dented, but didn't fire. I reloaded them. Both fired the second time.

Advice? Could this indicate a broken firing pin? I confess that I accidentally dry fired it a few times when I ran out of ammo. (I'm being more careful to count rounds now, and when nearing the end of the count, I'm checking the loaded chamber indicator to make sure one is up the spout.)

Is there a way for me to check the integrity of the firing pin?

Any advice will be appreciated. Thanks.

Nem

PS: aside from this problem, which is fixable I trust, I'm happy with the way the rifle shoots, especially with the Leupold on it. I've got more work to do to learn to shoot it better. But I'm getting reasonable results for one who hasn't done much .22 shooting for a long time.

 

[saltydog452]

I guess this proves that anything is possible...I would have figured that something like this happening with a 39 was about par with my pocket change having a gravitational effect on the Andromedia Galazy.

Not sure what you mean by checking the integrity of the firing pin, but its easy to remove. I don't think thats whats you were asking though.

Dry firing rim fires isn't a real good idea unless its a competition model designed to allow that. Maybe, during the dry fire practice session, when the inertia firing pin struck the area around the chamber seat, the firing pin threw up a 'burr'. If that happens, the rim fire round doesn't quite seat firmly in the chamber and some of the inertia of the firing pin is used to finish chambering the round rather than crushing the rim and setting off the primer compound.

Brownells sells a hand 22 rim fire reamer with a collar that is designed to remove these 'burrs'. You can use an Exacto knife just as well.

I've had mine since '66 and it has never had a mechanical failure.

salty.

 

[AStone]

Maybe, during the dry fire practice session, when the inertia firing pin struck the area around the chamber seat, the firing pin threw up a 'burr'. If that happens, the rim fire round doesn't quite seat firmly in the chamber and some of the inertia of the firing pin is used to finish chambering the round rather than crushing the rim and setting off the primer compound.

Hey, Salty, thanks for an opinion.

Interesting idea. Could be just a result of a new gun with a burr trying to seat the rnd.

Just to be clear, this didn't happen during a "dry fire practice session".
I do know better than to dry fire practice with .22.

No, the dry fires - probably five or six - happened accidentally as I fired
after having reached the end of rnds in the magazine. (I wasn't counting closely enough.)

I'm guessing (hoping) that if the firing pin was broken, I'd have gotten no firing at all.

But I've never experienced a broken firing pin,
so I don't know what the symptoms are.

Bottom line for me: broken pin or no,
I'm just trying to understand why I got five FTF in a 39A,
which I have read is one of the most reliable guns on Earth.

You said it most eloquently:

I would have figured that something like this happening with a 39 was about par with my pocket change having a gravitational effect on the Andromeda Galaxy

Um hmm.

 

[saltydog452]

It looks as though you're still loged into THR. Do you know how to remove the firing pin and bolt?

We can do this via PM or voice ir you like.

salty.

 

[AStone]

Salty, let's put the directions here.

I know how to get the bolt out.
(Part of the standard take down.)

Not sure (yet) how to check the pin.

Nem

 

[saltydog452]

I don't know if yours, with the safety, is the same as mine. PM inbound.

 

[AStone]

Thanks to very clear directions from Salty via PM,
I now know how to check the firing pin.

(We'll post them here, or in the 39A club, soon enough.)

Will do so within two days.
(Monday is very busy for me.)

Alternative hypotheses welcome.

Nem

 

[30Cal]

If the firing pin is broke, it'll be pretty obvious when you remove the bolt. On the older ones with no safety, you just open the bolt, pull the thumbscrew, take the barrel half off, then lift the bolt out.

Ty

 

[Fred Fuller]

Nem,

Did you try repeat hammer strikes before you ejected the misfire? Did you get ignition if you did try that?

Sounds like light strikes for some reason or other. Could be any of several things in the hammer fall/firing pin strike chain of events. If the hammer is falling solidly then it could be grease etc. in the firing pin channel, or some other 'drag' on the ignition process somewhere along the way. Checking everything and cleaning/lubing properly cannot hurt anything and might help.

Otherwise it might be a max tolerance issue between bolt and chamber, coupled perhaps with minimum tolerance on the ammo. Dunno, too hard to diagnose at a distance. Just plug away at it till it's cured is all I can offer...

hth,

lpl/nc

 

[AStone]

Ty and Lee, thanks for adding your 2c.

Salty taught me how to get the firing pin out last night (using the schematic). I'll check it either later today or more likely tomorrow.

Did you try repeat hammer strikes before you ejected the misfire?

I didn't, Lee. Should have thought about that. I confess, the situation caught me so off guard that I probably wasn't thinking straight. Next time, I'll be more prepared with a plan B

If the hammer is falling solidly then it could be grease etc. in the firing pin channel, or some other 'drag' on the ignition process somewhere along the way. Checking everything and cleaning/lubing properly cannot hurt anything and might help.

That's excellent advice. When I check the pin, I'll clean it good and look over everything.

I did break it down and clean it when I first got it, before shooting the first time. It's easily conceivable that I left too much oil in there. I often leave a very thin film of oil, spread on from a tiny drop on my finger. Maybe that's not such a good idea.

Anyways, I'll keep you all posted.

Thanks for your continued advice.

Nem

 

[AStone]

good news!

OK, the sun was shining so bright outside that it was hard for me to focus on work today. (Makes me want to be at the range, or better, off in the wood plinking!)

So, I'm <ahem> taking a break from work for a few minutes </ahem> (the made me do it). I've got the 39A broken down. The firing pin is not broken. (Yaaay!)

[Salty, good directions. Thanks. On this version with safety, the pin doesn't fall out. (Maybe I misread your point about that.) It's held into the bolt by a little round pin in the aft of the bolt that allows it to slide, but won't fall out. That seems like a good thing; do older models have pins that will just drop out when the bolt is out?) I'll try to do up a picture of it sometime.]

And Lee, yes, it was greasy. Well, maybe I'll say oily. It was obvious that I'd left too much oil on after cleaning last time.

So, I just ran a couple of patches down the tube with my new Tetra gun coated cleaning rod. I've wiped all the oil from the action.

Now, a question or three about lube.

This is quoted from the user's manual: "Clean the barrel with powder solvent and wipe lightly with gun oil after cleaning. Use a very thin coat of light oil during below freezing conditions. A dry graphite used sparingly is recommended for cold weather lubrication."

Hmm. Directions for cold weather. How about a tip for warm weather?

Spring is really here already. We have few nights now below freezing. Should I leave any oil at all on the action, or is graphite better even in summer?

If oil, I'm guessing the thinest film possible, maybe even wiped on with a thin cloth?

Thanks.

OK, back to work. Dang it.

Nem

 

[AStone]

I've moved the discussion of this issue - which continues to be an issue for me - over to the 39A thread here. I raise this FTF issue in post 96 of that thread.

Thanks, everyone. Come on over.

Nem