Marlin 60 takedown.

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Great pics!
I've got the original owner's manual that came with mine when I bought it in '82. It was invaluable back in the days before the internet and you guys!
 
Hehe I took the Marlin 60 to pieces and to my horror found some of the pins missing that keep the screws in place. I still need to put it back together but can't bring myself to the horror of actually doing so. The rifle was full of thick mud and when I tried reinserting the mechanism back into the rifle springs just got loose all over the place and that was the end of that. The Marlin 60 is fine unless you have it in parts.
 
Limeyfellow - sounds somewhat ''messy''!!! Not sure where to look right now but an exploded diag of the action should help - in fact it may be in back of an owner's manual if you can find one.

Do explain your username - I only ask cos I am an EX Limey! :)

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Chris - thanks for a great post!

If it helps anyone, I found with my ex-jammo-matic Marlin Glenfield 60 (got it circa 1978) I had to put a thin film of grease (Riggs +P Stainless Steel Lube) on the back of the bolt where it engages the cocking lever. Since I figured this tip out, mine runs like a top!
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Thanks again.
 
Shalako - you are most welcome. The intention was to hopefully make it a tad easier for those less familiar. Thx for adding your bit of extra pic info too.

The thread is well over a year old but has been ''resurrected'' today! :)
 
Holy Thread Resurrection, Batman!

This was the first thread I ever posted to on THR, and I just realized I never posted my results of the bolt rebuild. New extractor/ejector, new springs, cleaned to surgical standards, and tried every lubricant from Tetra Grease to graphite.

Still don't work!

I guess out of the (I'm guessing) millions of Glenfield/Marlin 60's out there, there had to be a couple lemons. Mine has now been relegated to Super Colibri use, where all semi's are bolt actions, anyway.

S/F

Farnham
 
I just found this link by doing a Yahoo search. It turns out that several folks in my shooting club have a Marlin 60, but have no idea on how to clean it.

Wow..this is so helpful. Thank you!

Does anyone know if Eezox would work well in this application? It's liquid but turns into a dry lube.

Makes sense, but I wanted to see what y'all thought.
 
I have not tried Eezox so cannot comment but would think it's OK if when dry there is no grease-like drag. Sounds fine.

There is a fine line IMO between a ''too wet'' oil in too great a quantity and a persistent but ''draggy'' grease type lube. Really is a case probably of trying stuff out but anyways keeping qty real minimal.
 
I forwarded Chris's takedown to some folks out of state back when he posted it, seems some folks went on the 'great alleviate pawn shops of various .22 rifles run". :)

Eezox has been used , biggest complaint was the smell, from not only adults, but the kids using the guns.

Dexcron II or IIE is a great lube and the best kept secret for semi shotguns, still some of the kids "my gun is stinky - phew" <crunched up noses, waving hands>

Castrol Syntec in 0w-30 works great as well...again some kids and folks that are sensitive to smells due to cancer and surgeries are really sensitive to stuff ( even just regular stuff like dish soaps and window cleaner).

Due to concerns with hazardous chemicals, toxic stuff around the house with kids and all , I had forgotten about Ballistol until reminded of it again. It used to be on the shelves around here, the old shops that had it went out [died off or retired].

Since the old tin can of Browning gun oil is not more...
G96 works great on these Marlin 60s and smells nice too...again not easy to find locally...


Ballistol is being accepted more and more and though some fuss about "smelly sock" smell - this smell goes away pretty quick and does not come back in firing the guns.

Also being used for a number of uses - replacing other household uses .

My Marlin 60 with the "Woodtone" finish , just runs. Winchester X22lr, which is avail here, has always run in anything I have used it in. I pipe clean / q-tip clean, and mine is lubed with ATF. If I ever clean it...I will go back to Ballistol.

For hollowpoint I use the Win PowerPoint ammo. Plinking I use the carton of Federal. CCI is not that easy to get , still these offering work great. I hid and hoard Dynapoints from Winchester as well.

PMC makes a great loading, I know someone that hoarded the Zappers from PMC as his Marlin 60 and 39 are "one holers" with this ammo. I forget if this is standard or high vel.

Trick to .22 ammo guns - is finding the ammo that gun likes for feed and reliability - and POA/POI.

AVOID Win Expert like the plague.

.22's are just too useful and fun not to have.
 
I clean my marlin 60 reguarly, normally after each trip to the range which equals at least 550 rounds if not more. The basic strip is fine, but I sure don't have the guts to take all the little pins out and try and put it back together agian lol
 
I could use some help.

Well the first picture demonstration is very helpful but I need something even more in depth I completly took EVERYTHING apart springs and everything and cant seem to figure out how to put it back together it would be very helpful if someone could redirect me to anything going all the way in the dissasembly im kinda anxeious to see how it fires after being cleaned spotless.
 
the most improtant things about the mod 60 to clean, are the bolt face/ chamber area, especially where the little grooves are in the chamber face area, where the extractor/ejector kinda fit into when closed. clean and scrub, with dental pics of necc. Light thin lube is the key to the bolt assy., and yes sometimes a new ejector/extractor is just the ticket. Though it is rare, i have had to replace one in one of my 60's once. And one I accidentally screwed up myself another time, and that was it. They are cheap and usually if you order one from marlin, they will give you two.
 
I still need help

What i need is a lot more detail pic or intructions on how to put every single thing back together everything not just what is show at the beggining of the thread.
 
you took all the little spring apart? :scrutiny: QHt in the name of the heebeejeebees would make you do that?

All you need to do is spray it down with some cleaner or oil and if you really wanna do it good wash it under hot running water and that will get it perfectly clean.

As to putting it back together I have no idea lol

One tip though is whenever you take something wiht a bunch of small pieces apart when you are unfamiler with it is to take pictures of it or write down and organize step by step as you take it apart and put it back in the reverse order.
 
Sorry -no help to offer either. I have purposely resisted the urge to strip down that far!!

It is true - if you do a total strip and are unfamilar then notes taken while so doing help - spring locations - orientations etc. It does facilitate the re-assembly.

Your best might might be to try asking on rimfire central forum.
 
Thanks!

lol hey guys I fixed with with some help easily it went back together and thank god for tweesers btw it shoots absolutly amazing everything is spick and span thanks for all your help and the photos rock!
 
The first gun I ever shot and owned a glenfield mod. 60. same as marlin mod 60 except screws for the take down and no last shot bolt stop. I had one of mine fte continually. I found out it was from old or bad ammo. I put new and old ammo in it and you could hear the difference one sounded like a pellet gun the other sounded like a crack.

After a little practice you should be able to field strip and clean in 2-5 minutes.

I love these guns cheap, reliable, easy to maintain, and ammo is cheap and plentifull. Evertone should have atleast two.
 
that was a joke, as in try never to clean it, unless accuracy falls off or carbon is actually jumping out of the ejection port, along with the brass!
 
Action assembly

Marlin Model 60 action assembly instructions

Let me start by saying that I do not claim to be an expert of any kind. I came to this forum AFTER having disassembled the action on my '94 Mod 60 because I wanted it to be clean enough to eat off of after having owned it for the past 10+ years. Don't ask me why, I just did it. I figured I was smart enough to figure out how to put it back together, but figured wrong.

Luckily, the pictures at the beginning of this thread were clear enough to show me where everything should go, so I set about figuring it out. After fiddling around, I decided to take some photos while putting it together. I apologize for the lighting as I did it at my desk. It all seems to work at home when I was done (feed, ejection, auto hold-open, bolt release, dry fire) although I haven't actually fired it with a live round yet.

WARNING: To test those functions, I played it safe and acted like it is going to fire accidentally as soon as I closed the bolt. Muzzle in a safe direction.

I joined this forum for the sole purpose of posting these in the hopes that they'll prove useful to someone. Remember that these are written by, and for, a person who performed the disassembly. Part names are taken from the Model 60 parts list (yup, I still have the owner's manual). My instructions may be a bit crude but hopefully the pictures will fill in the details (spring orientation, etc).

First, I needed two forks in order to compress and hold the hammer spring. I bent the end of one prong to act as a retaining pin.
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It's kind of hard to see, but note the position of the two-stepped side of the hammer strut bridge (the slotted piece, middle picture) as it is critical. It needs to clear the sliding lever that is permanently mounted to the LH sideplate assembly.
 
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Next, one "leg" of the sear (the part with the hooked finger) needs to go over its pin. The sear spring and the spring for the bolt release lever needs to go over the pin before pushing the sear completely on. (the bolt release lever is connected to its spring but hanging loose in these pics).
Slide the hammer spring assembly over its pin, letting it stick up as seen here, and guide the strut bridge to its hole in the sideplate.
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Insert the cartridge lifter into the feed throat as seen here, then slide the ejector lifter spring (the big one) into place so that the long end falls into the slot on the top of the feed throat. At this point, I also slid the sear spring into place between the side plate and the ejector lifter spring.
The hole at the end of the cartridge lifter will then go over the same pin as the hammer. You may have to move the lever that is permanently attached to the LH side plate just a little to set it all flush.
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Lay the bolt release lever on the side of the feed throat. This will be the only part you have to move to line up with its hole while putting the RH sideplate on. Don't forget to put on the big plastic buffer at the rear (curved side facing rear) before attaching the RH side plate.
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Attach the four c-clips into place and remove the fork. Then move the small end of the ejector lifter spring into place. It will hold tension against both the cartridge lifter and the bolt release lever.
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Here are a few additional pictures for reference. I also suggest going back to pictures 2 & 4 in the original post as those are much clearer than mine, especially with the red background.
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You will have to pull the slide back to connect the action and that should be it (after applying lube sparingly, as mentioned earlier).

I hope that helps someone else out. Not bad for one night's work, but next time I'm just using gun scrub on the whole assembly. Much more time left to go plinking.
Jerry
 
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farnham, the first thing to do is replace the mag tube pusher assy. if you are firing 5 rounds perfect, then not, it sounds like the pusher has got a problemif it is fail rto eject, then clean the ejector/extractor metal piece that goes around the bolt , real good. also check it for dings, etc. also where the bolt face locks up into the chamber face, on the left and right side of the chamber face, there are little "grooves" the ejector/extractor fits into, get something sharp, and dig the crud out of those channels.
for the best mod 60 info, go over tohttp://www.rimfirecentral.com/forums/
and check the marlin thread.
 
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