srv656s
Member
I posted this a while back on another board, but I've been reading a lot here recently since it's the only gun site not blocked at work and figured I'd post this here too...
When I was getting into reloading I was looking for a fairly complete list of what kind of stuff I’d need to buy and decided that now that I had all my stuff I’d put this together to help others get an idea of what all is involved. When I made my original order I thought I got everything I’d need and overlooked a lot of stuff. I ended up making 3 additional orders to Midway before I had everything I actually needed.
So here’s some pictures and descriptions of the stuff I've put together over the last few months to reload for my Remington 700P in .308.
Tools Labeled
The picture above shows some of the basic stuff needed to get into reloading precision ammo. I didn’t show a pic of the calipers I have, but that’s another tool you’ll need to measure the case lengths and stuff.
I almost also forgot to take a picture of the match grade primers in the back and the primer tool. Well, actually I did forget but they were in the frame so I threw some labels on them.
Here’s what this stuff is for:
Powder Trickler: Usually I throw my powder charge about .3 grains under what I actually want the charge to be and then trickle up to the exact amount. The powder trickler trickles a small amount of powder at a time as you twist the little knob. Not a great picture of it, it’s kind of behind some stuff.
Powder Funnel: I thought I could get by without one, but they cost next to nothing and are very handy. The use should be obvious.
Ammo Box: Another thing people skimp on, but it’s nice to have a dedicated ammo box for the ammo you make. You can reuse the cardboard boxes your factory ammo comes in, but they don’t offer the same protection.
Scale: I’ve got an electronic and a balance scale to back it up. I find the Dillon to be very accurate and fast.
Case Trimmer: When you shoot, the brass stretches slightly each time. You’ve got to trim the cases down so they don’t get too long. I trim them every time I shoot, which is probably not necessary, however I’m very anal when it comes to reloading. I want everything to be as perfect as possible.
Chamfer and Deburring Tool: After you trim the cases, there’s little bits of metal that can scratch the bullets as you seat them, etc. This smoothes out the outside edge and inside edge.
Primer Pocket Brush: Another thing that a lot of people probably don’t bother with. I use mine each time I shoot.
Primer tool: The single stage press can be used to seat the primer, but some experienced people recommended I get a hand primer for the job. I think it gets a little uncomfortable after you prime 50 or more, but it does have a good feel and is cheap. I have the LEE hand primer and I believe it was around ten bucks.
Primers, Powder, Bullets: This is all subjective. Lots of different combinations available and each gun will like different components. I use 168 grn SMK’s, Federal Match Primers and Varget powder.
Single stage press
This is a fantastic press in my opinion. It is cheap (I think around $70) and solid as a rock. I hope to load .50 BMG on it someday. Single stage presses have less slop in them and although I’ve got a nice progressive, I think the single stage press gives much better results.
I also considered a turret press and would think that it could be very good for some people. I really think the single stage press with the Lock N Load bushings is as fast to switch dies as a turret press. I really liked this press because it can also load the .50 BMG. I bought the kit with the .50 dies, but haven’t gotten all the equipment (or courage) to load for that monster yet…
Lock N Load system
If you get a single stage press, I would HIGHLY recommend the Lock N Load system. You screw your dies into the bushings and then you can twist them in and out of the Hornady Sure-Loc Lock Ring which screws into the press.
With this system, you can twist out one die and put another one in without changing the settings on either. It’s a very neat system.
Dies
As you can see, each of my dies is attached to a Lock N Load bushing. Since I’m shooting a bolt gun, I just have a neck sizer which only sizes the neck rather than the whole case. This should make the brass last longer. Also in the box is a crimp die and a seating die. I don’t really use the crimp die since it’s probably an unnecessary step in a bolt rifle. If I was shooting an autoloader, the crimp die would be necessary.
Powder Measure
Lots of options here. If I could do it all over again I would just buy the RCBS scale/powder dispenser combo. I measure each powder charge, which probably isn’t necessary since this powder measure usually drops fairly consistently.
Lots of options here as well. I went with RCBS stuff and have been pretty pleased with it so far. You throw the brass into the tumbler along with some corn cob or whatever and the vibration scrubs the brass clean. The media separator separates the cleaned brass from the corn cob or whatever you use.
Now for the results…
Ahhh… not bad… also a good pic of my calipers…
Hope this helps!
Shawn
When I was getting into reloading I was looking for a fairly complete list of what kind of stuff I’d need to buy and decided that now that I had all my stuff I’d put this together to help others get an idea of what all is involved. When I made my original order I thought I got everything I’d need and overlooked a lot of stuff. I ended up making 3 additional orders to Midway before I had everything I actually needed.
So here’s some pictures and descriptions of the stuff I've put together over the last few months to reload for my Remington 700P in .308.
Tools Labeled
The picture above shows some of the basic stuff needed to get into reloading precision ammo. I didn’t show a pic of the calipers I have, but that’s another tool you’ll need to measure the case lengths and stuff.
I almost also forgot to take a picture of the match grade primers in the back and the primer tool. Well, actually I did forget but they were in the frame so I threw some labels on them.
Here’s what this stuff is for:
Powder Trickler: Usually I throw my powder charge about .3 grains under what I actually want the charge to be and then trickle up to the exact amount. The powder trickler trickles a small amount of powder at a time as you twist the little knob. Not a great picture of it, it’s kind of behind some stuff.
Powder Funnel: I thought I could get by without one, but they cost next to nothing and are very handy. The use should be obvious.
Ammo Box: Another thing people skimp on, but it’s nice to have a dedicated ammo box for the ammo you make. You can reuse the cardboard boxes your factory ammo comes in, but they don’t offer the same protection.
Scale: I’ve got an electronic and a balance scale to back it up. I find the Dillon to be very accurate and fast.
Case Trimmer: When you shoot, the brass stretches slightly each time. You’ve got to trim the cases down so they don’t get too long. I trim them every time I shoot, which is probably not necessary, however I’m very anal when it comes to reloading. I want everything to be as perfect as possible.
Chamfer and Deburring Tool: After you trim the cases, there’s little bits of metal that can scratch the bullets as you seat them, etc. This smoothes out the outside edge and inside edge.
Primer Pocket Brush: Another thing that a lot of people probably don’t bother with. I use mine each time I shoot.
Primer tool: The single stage press can be used to seat the primer, but some experienced people recommended I get a hand primer for the job. I think it gets a little uncomfortable after you prime 50 or more, but it does have a good feel and is cheap. I have the LEE hand primer and I believe it was around ten bucks.
Primers, Powder, Bullets: This is all subjective. Lots of different combinations available and each gun will like different components. I use 168 grn SMK’s, Federal Match Primers and Varget powder.
Single stage press
This is a fantastic press in my opinion. It is cheap (I think around $70) and solid as a rock. I hope to load .50 BMG on it someday. Single stage presses have less slop in them and although I’ve got a nice progressive, I think the single stage press gives much better results.
I also considered a turret press and would think that it could be very good for some people. I really think the single stage press with the Lock N Load bushings is as fast to switch dies as a turret press. I really liked this press because it can also load the .50 BMG. I bought the kit with the .50 dies, but haven’t gotten all the equipment (or courage) to load for that monster yet…
Lock N Load system
If you get a single stage press, I would HIGHLY recommend the Lock N Load system. You screw your dies into the bushings and then you can twist them in and out of the Hornady Sure-Loc Lock Ring which screws into the press.
With this system, you can twist out one die and put another one in without changing the settings on either. It’s a very neat system.
Dies
As you can see, each of my dies is attached to a Lock N Load bushing. Since I’m shooting a bolt gun, I just have a neck sizer which only sizes the neck rather than the whole case. This should make the brass last longer. Also in the box is a crimp die and a seating die. I don’t really use the crimp die since it’s probably an unnecessary step in a bolt rifle. If I was shooting an autoloader, the crimp die would be necessary.
Powder Measure
Lots of options here. If I could do it all over again I would just buy the RCBS scale/powder dispenser combo. I measure each powder charge, which probably isn’t necessary since this powder measure usually drops fairly consistently.
Lots of options here as well. I went with RCBS stuff and have been pretty pleased with it so far. You throw the brass into the tumbler along with some corn cob or whatever and the vibration scrubs the brass clean. The media separator separates the cleaned brass from the corn cob or whatever you use.
Now for the results…
Ahhh… not bad… also a good pic of my calipers…
Hope this helps!
Shawn
