Progressive List - Missing anything?

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I don't know this press but I can't see it taking hours not alone a whole day. If your RCBS die bells the case mouth there is no need for the Lee die to do it also.
 
Which begs the question why do it in 2 vs 1? (More reading for me on that one). And more decision on which way to go. Seeing that you still have to take "apart" the press (ie. remove the shell plate) to do caliber changes not sure if the "ease" of just swapping plates with dies is worth it or not. In my mind (right now) if and when I have to switch calibers it's already a "day lost due to down time" so I guess a few hours added is no big deal.

With the Dillon or LNL-AP change over is very quick, <10 min and that's including changing primer size. If not changing primer size < 1 min on the LNL. Now if the RCBS press is design like your saying I would look at the LNL or Dillon.
 
The LNL and PRO2000 are extremely similar in design. And LNL changeover is NOT that fast (there's a shell plate, remember?).
 
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So it would be setup as follows.
Stage 1 - LEE Carbide Sizer Die
Stage 2 - LEE Powder Through Expander Die
(& use only the expander part since I'm not connecting a powder dropper to this die)
Stage 3 - Uniflow Powder Dropper (FIXED stage)
Stage 4 - RCBS Lock-Out Die
Stage 5 - LEE Bullet Seater Die
(This die will also do the crimp as well?)
That's what the press was designed for, and it does it exceedingly well. Most 3-die sets have a seating die that crimps as well.
And don't trouble yourself fretting about changeover time. I can switch between 45 and 38 in less than 15 minutes, taking my sweet time. Remove/exchange die plate, change shell plate, adjust ejector, swap out primer rod, adjust powder measure height. Done.
 
Thank you altitude_19.
So just stick with the LEE 3-set for now as there seems to be no point in getting Dillon dies if I still have to get an "expander" as well (another die) which just adds more to the cost (not a big issue yet) but also makes the dies more "frankenstin" since I'll be using Dillon, RCBS, and yet who know who for expander. Whereas the other way it's all LEEs + the RCBS lock out.
 
I thought you was using a RCBS expander die?

Depends on which way the dies are used.


My original plan was to buy the LEE 4 set dies along with the RCBS Powder Expander and set up the press as follows:
Stage 1 Lee Sizing & De-Cap Die
Stage 2 RCBS Pistol Powder Expander
Stage 3 RCBS Lock-Out Die
Stage 4 Lee Bullet Seat & Feed Die
Stage 5 Lee Factory Crimp Die

Since I though I needed the Lee FCD to ensure all was good at the end.
However in setting it up like this you lose the advantage of having the powder drop (uniflow) in the stage 3 slot which is the fixed slot to the press. Stage 1, 2, 4 and 5 come on a removable plate for fast changes between calibers.

However I'm being told that it is best to set up the press for it's original intention of have stage 3 with the uniflow and thus you only need LEE's 3 die set. So the set up would be like this:

Stage 1 - LEE Carbide Sizer Die
Stage 2 - LEE Powder Through Expander Die
(& use only the expander part since I'm not connecting a powder dropper to this die)
Stage 3 - Uniflow Powder Dropper (FIXED stage)
Stage 4 - RCBS Lock-Out Die
Stage 5 - LEE Bullet Seater Die

Clear as mud now?
It becomes a matter of cost and preference. The LEE 3 dies is less then the 4 die set. More importantly is which way do I set up the stages for quick changes down the road.

See the crossroad I must chose.
 
BTW, you get a shellholder with a Lee 3-die set. I started out with all RCBS tools, but the more Lee tools I use, the more I like them.
 
altitude_19 The LNL and PRO2000 are extremely similar in design. And LNL changeover is NOT that fast (there's a shell plate, remember?).

It does not take me any longer to do it. Your only talking about 1 cap screw that's holds the shell plate. Just index to the hub and tighten, < 1 min to do. Then add maybe 30 sec for dies. You spend more time adjusting the powder dispenser. But that's will all. The micrometers heads make that a little faster.

I'm not a fan of Lee's dies. Their dies seam to have a shorter body (threads) than every one else. Their locking rings are useless. Now if your using them on a thick press (die frame) you will have problems locking the dies down. Recommend going with RCBS or Hornady dies.
 
It does not take me any longer to do it. Your only talking about 1 cap screw that's holds the shell plate. Just index to the hub and tighten, < 1 min to do. Then add maybe 30 sec for dies. You spend more time adjusting the powder dispenser. But that's will all. The micrometers heads make that a little faster.
Yeah, same with the RCBS. They're pretty much the same for changeover.
I'm not a fan of Lee's dies. Their dies seam to have a shorter body (threads) than every one else. Their locking rings are useless. Now if your using them on a thick press (die frame) you will have problems locking the dies down. Recommend going with RCBS or Hornady dies.
You got anything better than "seem?" Their locking rings don't matter on a die plate in a PRO2000. Without actual measurements to support this claim, it doesn't seem helpful.
 
For this discussion the locking rings of the LEE is a mute point since I plan on getting the Hornady Die Lock Ring to replace whatever "locks" I end up getting with whatever dies I end up getting.
 
Well, you don't need ANY lock ring capabilites for a die plate equipped progressive. I do like the Hornady rings for use with dies used primarily on single stage presses. Not badly priced, either.
 
Well, you don't need ANY lock ring capabilites for a die plate equipped progressive. I do like the Hornady rings for use with dies used primarily on single stage presses. Not badly priced, either.

Oh now **THAT** i did not know! Why is that? Not needing any "lock ring capabilities" on a "die plate equipped progressive"?

Since I plan on starting the the RCBS single stage I think I'll still keep them on my list for now as the budget still allows for them. =)
 
I prefer the Lee lock rings. They can't be useless since I get great use out of them.
 
Rings don't need to lock since you'll be tightening them down against the die plate. Rings only need to lock for routine single stage use (lots of screwing in and out). But if you're just going to get your bearings on the single stage, Lee rings will work fine. You can't clamp the die in a vice and torque for all you're worth on the lock ring with a wrench...but as long as you screw them in/out with the ring (not the die body) and don't man-handle them, you can save the money for lock rings to use on rifle dies that work primarily on your single stage.
Lee rings are even ok with rifle sizing/depriming dies, since you just screw them in until they hit the shell holder, there really aren't any settings to retain. I just put the Hornady lock ring on the seat/crimp die for rifles.
 
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