A hunting buddy of mine has a 7mm Mauser. He loves the gun and says it is very accurate but cant stand the trigger. He says when you pull the trigger its like it has 2 stages and can feel a heavier pull midway. Can someone tell me how to fix this or recommend a new trigger for this gun. He also would like to replace the stock. Any ideas? Thanks.
Mauser help
- Thread starter Kenny45
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hey_poolboy
Member
I've got one 96 swedish Mauser, and it originally had that same style of trigger in it. There is a "bump" in the trigger. If you take it off you'll see what I mean. I replaced mine with this one. It's been wonderful. Mine has been set down to 2#, and with the adjustable sear engagement worked down to a minimum, but safe level the trigger breaks like glass.
Anytime you do adjustments or replace the trigger make sure you have a snap cap or similar dummy round chambered and do all the safety checks. Especially bump the butt on the floor fairly hard to simulate a fall or drop and make sure that it holds. If you adjust anything make sure you put a little paint or nail polish or some type of thread locker back on all of the threads the way they come from the factory. It you don't the screws will move on their own as a result of use and time.
Anytime you do adjustments or replace the trigger make sure you have a snap cap or similar dummy round chambered and do all the safety checks. Especially bump the butt on the floor fairly hard to simulate a fall or drop and make sure that it holds. If you adjust anything make sure you put a little paint or nail polish or some type of thread locker back on all of the threads the way they come from the factory. It you don't the screws will move on their own as a result of use and time.
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You can remove the trigger hump to eliminate the 2 stage feel. I actually like the military 2 stage trigger feel. 1st stage for safety and get ready for the 2nd stage which is what really affects accuracy. change to a lighter trigger spring and polish the engagement will improve the feel.
RKRCPA
Member
I guess it really depends on what your buddy is looking to do. Is this a sporterized Mauser? Is he trying to keep it original?
That information will help considerably.
That information will help considerably.
NCsmitty
Member
I'm not a big fan of the Mauser military triggers, and if I'm going to rework an action, an after market trigger is part of the equation.
I use Bold triggers exclusively, and they are a good value and are crisp and clean in their let off, and extremely easy to install and are adjustable.
Others like Timney triggers, and I'm sure they are good too.
NCsmitty
I use Bold triggers exclusively, and they are a good value and are crisp and clean in their let off, and extremely easy to install and are adjustable.
Others like Timney triggers, and I'm sure they are good too.
NCsmitty
Clark
Member
I have done different kinds of trigger jobs on Mausers.
I have Silver soldered on trigger extensions so I can drill and tap for take up, per the gunsmithing books.
I have drilled and taped for an over travel adjustment screw.
I have put a trimmed slug inside the trigger spring for over travel adjustment.
I have swapped out springs with ball point pen springs.
I have put in after market triggers by Kepplinger, Timeny, and Bold.
I think the best thing to do is much easier:
1) Grind down on the rear hump and shown in my pic. Don't do it wrong or the trigger force gets harder or will not even trigger. The geometry of the trigger leverage is complicated, and one would be better off just copying me. Grind too much and you will be looking to buy another trigger or weld some replacement metal onto the trigger.
2) Cut a coil off the trigger spring with a grinder.
With skill and fooling around, a guy can get the force down to 2 pounds. Don't do that. Just keep working until it is 4 pounds and slamming the butt on the ground and opening and closing the bolt does not set it off.
If you must have 2 pounds, buy the Bold, break the seal, and adjust it.
I have Silver soldered on trigger extensions so I can drill and tap for take up, per the gunsmithing books.
I have drilled and taped for an over travel adjustment screw.
I have put a trimmed slug inside the trigger spring for over travel adjustment.
I have swapped out springs with ball point pen springs.
I have put in after market triggers by Kepplinger, Timeny, and Bold.
I think the best thing to do is much easier:
1) Grind down on the rear hump and shown in my pic. Don't do it wrong or the trigger force gets harder or will not even trigger. The geometry of the trigger leverage is complicated, and one would be better off just copying me. Grind too much and you will be looking to buy another trigger or weld some replacement metal onto the trigger.
2) Cut a coil off the trigger spring with a grinder.
With skill and fooling around, a guy can get the force down to 2 pounds. Don't do that. Just keep working until it is 4 pounds and slamming the butt on the ground and opening and closing the bolt does not set it off.
If you must have 2 pounds, buy the Bold, break the seal, and adjust it.
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Wow, Clark. He just said his buddy wants a better trigger, not that he wants to buy a machine shop. That kind of fix is OK for a hobbyist with a shop and lots of time, but as a pro I would never have wasted the time; I would just sell the customer a Timney and charge him to put it in if he couldn't.
Jim
Jim
Clark
Member
If he takes my advise, unscrew the two action screws, push or pound the two 3mm trigger pins, grind off the rear trigger hump, grind off a coil of the trigger spring, push the pins back in, put the screws back in.
2 minute trigger job if you are hot.
20 minute trigger job if you can't find your screwdriver.
Machine shop required: a grinder.
That will solve the OP's problem of having a two stage trigger and a pull that is too hard.
jimmyraythomason
Member
A Bold Premium trigger by Boyds costs less than $50 anywhere not counting postage. It installs in minutes with little modification to the stock or trigger guard. It is fully adjustable though I have been very happy with the factory 3.5 lb setting. I use both the Premium and Optima(thumb safety)in my Mausers sporters.
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dirtyjim
Member
i prefer timney's to bold but they both work good.
if you think simply grinding off the 1st stage hump will give you a better trigger you will be in for a rude awakening when you actually do it.
what you will get is a very long very heavy trigger. if you understand levers, fulcrums & work you'll be able to see & understand why.
the first stage is light because its pivot point is closer to the fulcrum, when you remove it you move all the work to the very end of the trigger making the pull heavier and you raise the sear higher up at the same time making the trigger pull even longer. you have to shorten the sear height to overcome the long trigger, you can also put an adjustment screw on the trigger and it will do the same thing. to lighten the pull you have to move the back of the trigger forward by putting a large radius on it to shorten the distance from the fulcrum to the pivot.
here are a few pic's of mauser triggers so you can see what i'm taking about.
left is a aftermarket MKV single stage trigger, middle is a trigger modified to single stage by removing the 1st stage hump and right is an unmodified trigger. notice the radius on the back of the MKV trigger it moves the pivot point .053 closer to the fulcrum.
MKV sear sits .106" lower than a modified single stage trigger in a military sear, MKV sear measures the same dimensions off the rifle as a standard military sear.
here you can see how they sit in the receiver. MKV trigger & sear sit level in the receiver.
modifed trigger in a military sear, back of sear is raised quite a bit up into the receiver
if you think simply grinding off the 1st stage hump will give you a better trigger you will be in for a rude awakening when you actually do it.
what you will get is a very long very heavy trigger. if you understand levers, fulcrums & work you'll be able to see & understand why.
the first stage is light because its pivot point is closer to the fulcrum, when you remove it you move all the work to the very end of the trigger making the pull heavier and you raise the sear higher up at the same time making the trigger pull even longer. you have to shorten the sear height to overcome the long trigger, you can also put an adjustment screw on the trigger and it will do the same thing. to lighten the pull you have to move the back of the trigger forward by putting a large radius on it to shorten the distance from the fulcrum to the pivot.
here are a few pic's of mauser triggers so you can see what i'm taking about.
left is a aftermarket MKV single stage trigger, middle is a trigger modified to single stage by removing the 1st stage hump and right is an unmodified trigger. notice the radius on the back of the MKV trigger it moves the pivot point .053 closer to the fulcrum.
MKV sear sits .106" lower than a modified single stage trigger in a military sear, MKV sear measures the same dimensions off the rifle as a standard military sear.
here you can see how they sit in the receiver. MKV trigger & sear sit level in the receiver.
modifed trigger in a military sear, back of sear is raised quite a bit up into the receiver
Clark
Member
If you follow my picture and grind like that, the trigger pull will come down from 8 pounds to 4 pounds.
If you deviate from my instructions, you will likely get 12 pounds, if it still works.
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