Mauser K98K

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Thinking about getting one of these K98Ks. Might shoot it like it is with the 8mm Mauser, however...


http://www.centerfiresystems.com/miva/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CSI&Product_Code=K-SPORTER&Category_Code=MAU

K-SPORTER-RGB.jpg


How hard is it to rebarrel these things, to say a 22-250 for coyotes??? I know brownells and midway have replacement barrels, should need headspace guages and lots of pbblaster. What else??


Might also get rid of stock for something more monte carlo like.

Also, is this a large ring mauser or what?

Thoughts and ideas?


FFL ONLY! NO C&R!


Mauser K98 with ATI Synthetic Stock and Built-In Scope Rail

Synthetic Stock Installed on Rifle

The Karabiner 1898 Kurz was the last of the long line of Mauser rifles used by the Wehrmacht (Germany Army). The K98k designation translates to: short carbine 1898 model.This rifle became the standard infantry weapon of all German forces.


A modified, shortened version of the rifle (K98K) was introduced into the Wehrmacht in 1935. K is for Kurz which means “short” in German. Therefore, the length was shorter than the WWI Gewehr 98, had a different front sight, and had a curved, rather than straight bolt action handle with a fixed internal magazine of five rounds. Every soldier who fought for Germany in the Second World War trained with this rifle. In fact, for many this was their only weapon throughout the war. The Wehrmacht entered World War II with a total number of 2,769,533 K98k rifles. A total of 14 million rifles were eventually produced, and underwent several changes during the 10 year period that it was produced. Various changes were made in an attempt to reduce production costs and to increase actual production. This weapon, despite plans to replace it with weapons of greater firepower and lower production costs, remained the primary infantry weapon for the entire conflict. The K98k could also be used as a sniper rifle when a ZF41 2.5x Scope or a ZF42 5x scope was attached.

The old wooden Mauser gunstock has been replaced with an extremely durable stock made of black, glass-filled nylon. The Built-In Scope Mount allows multiple positions for rifle scopes and other optics. Includes Sling Swivel Studs and Rubber Butt Pad.
 
How does 8mm compare to 30.06? Was between this and SKS for truck/rough duty gun banging around farm, instead of scratching up my Model 70 featherweight.

Gonna go buy one this week, what do I need to look for?
 
kentucky_smith said:
How does 8mm compare to 30.06? Was between this and SKS for truck/rough duty gun banging around farm, instead of scratching up my Model 70 featherweight.

Not a lot of difference. For comparison, a .30-06 will drive a 150 grain bullet to around 3000 fps with max handloads. An 8mm will drive a 150 grain bullet to around 2850 with max handloads.

kentucky_smith said:
Gonna go buy one this week, what do I need to look for?

First check overall appearance. Are there dings, nicks, evidence of excess buffing to get rid of rust? Check under the stock -- mausers are often found with pitting where the wood and metal meet. Check the bore -- clean, crisp and bright. Look for signs of metal fouling (indicating a lot of shooting.) Try the trigger (a bad one can be replaced.) Be sure the safety works -- in all three positions. Work the bolt -- is it smooth and slick (especially on cocking) or rough and gritty?
 
screw out, screw in, check headspace???

Screw out, screw in, finish ream, check headspace, if you are lucky. More likely, you will have to modify the feed rails and feed ramp to get the rifle to cycle properly

By the time you figure in the cost of a reamer, barrel vise, action wrench, headspace guages, new trigger, and the initial cost of the rifle, you could buy a remington SPS for about the same price as the entire mauser setup and have a much better rifle to boot.
 
cracked butt said:
Screw out, screw in, finish ream, check headspace, if you are lucky. More likely, you will have to modify the feed rails and feed ramp to get the rifle to cycle properly

By the time you figure in the cost of a reamer, barrel vise, action wrench, headspace guages, new trigger, and the initial cost of the rifle, you could buy a remington SPS for about the same price as the entire mauser setup and have a much better rifle to boot.


What's the fun in that? Might just buy it and shoot it as is.
 
I have been tempted many times to sporterize a surplus rifle -- but when I run the numbers, I always find I can buy a top-quality sporter cheaper.

One of my favorite rifles is Bigfoot Wallace, a custom '03 Springfield in .35 Brown-Whelen. This rifle was build by a master -- but I got it, complete with Leupold M8 scope, for less than a good condition unaltered '03 would have cost.
 
Bought one tonight, nice clean bore, rifling better than some new guns I've seen. Magazine spring is good, bolt's a bit brown, rest of gun has most of blue on it, decent shape little gun. Little birds stamped all over it and 655, and it appears to have been made in 1940. Not crazy about the fiberglass stock, but got it scoped, will shoot it tomorrow.

Seems to be a nice truck gun.
 
Took it to range today. Shoots decent, now I wish I had a better scope, say 12-16 power, seems to group pretty well at 100, real Loooooowww at 200.

Federal 180 grain factory ammo.

Started scattering after about 20 rounds, didn't have cleaning kit with me, so may look for better scope and try again.

Real pleased, though. Not as good a shooter as my Mod70, but good backup gun. And only $150 invested thus far.
 
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