Maxfire or Safariland Speedloaders with Ruger LCR-Anyone?

Status
Not open for further replies.

tackleberi

Member
Joined
Feb 4, 2006
Messages
182
At the present time, Ruger only endorses the HKS speedloader for use with the LCR.

Has anyone had personal experience/success using Safariland Comp I speedloaders with the LCR?

How about Maxfire M4K's?
 
I have and use a bunch of HKS loaders. Mainly because they are availiable most everywhere and cheap and the fact that I've used them so long... I'm capable of operating them somewhat efficiently. They suck in comparison to the very few Safariland loaders I have thou.

I really like the push button release on Safarilands - it is just so much easier to use. They just cost more and are harder to load properly.

I don't know much about the MaxFire loaders, however I did read on Grant Cunninghams site that he has had a rash of revolvers come in his shop as of late with bent cranes from them.... That is enough to keep me away from them.
Will
 
The Safariland speedloaders won't work in the LCR. The dimensions are just enough different from the j frame to prevent the rounds from seating far enough. The HKS will work. I don't have any exprerience with Maxfires.
 
I don't know much about the MaxFire loaders, however I did read on Grant Cunninghams site that he has had a rash of revolvers come in his shop as of late with bent cranes from them....

I'm not sure how you bend the crane of a revolver if you use the MaxiFire per their directions. I have them for my Taurus Model 415, mainly because no one else makes a speedloader for this revolver and even the MaxiFire (which is sort of awkward to use, even with practice) is faster than single loading or even reloading with a Bianchi strip.
 
Maxfires are tricky at best and are more like a speed strip that holds the rounds in a circular manner than work how they were designed. You have to lever the rounds out as opposed to slide it off.

I too have heard of crane damage with them. Probably from people using them improperly rather than inherent design. THey can be hard to make the cartridges release but like I said you have to lever the loader not slide it.
 
You have to lever the rounds out as opposed to slide it off.

Actually, you have it just about backwards. From the MaxiFire directions:

"TO LOAD REVOLVER: With the speedloader over your index finger held in right hand, pointed down with cylinder open and chambers empty, align two highest cartridges with the two chambers furthest from the frame. Flat side of the speedloader should be against the gun. Insert the cartridges into the chambers of the cylinder. Pull the speedloader away from the gun with a sideways pull at a 90 degree angle, NOT UP or DOWN, (DON'T PEEL-[lever]) and your revolver is instantly loaded."

As I said in my earlier post, there's nothing "instant" about the Maxifire and the term speedloader is a reach, but in my circumstance (no conventional speedloaders available for my Taurus Model 415-if anybody knows of any, I'm all ears) the slowest speedloader is better than no speedloader.
 
Actually, you have it just about backwards. From the MaxiFire directions:

This is a correct statement and I am glad it was brought up because I was fully aware of Maxfires directions but it is near impossible to follow them and get decent speed if you use them as directed. At the same time I see more potential for damage from following Maxfires directions on how to use them properly than folowing Maxfires directions on how not to use them.

A couple other people who have been in the game while agree too.

http://snubtraining.wordpress.com/2009/08/ scroll down to august 7

http://stuckinmassachusetts.blogspot.com/2008/04/friday-gun-pr0n-53.html Video #1

That second link shows a video of all the speed loader methods on the market.

The first link is Michael be Bethancourt's blog which has a slew of information on revolvers and most particularly snubbies.

When it comes down to it you might as well just stay away from the Maxfires if you can. If not, then they sure beat hand pluckin.
 
I was fully aware of Maxfires directions but it is near impossible to follow them and get decent speed if you use them as directed. At the same time I see more potential for damage from following Maxfires directions on how to use them properly than folowing Maxfires directions on how not to use them.

In terms of using any speedloader, my training dictates that the revolver is cradled in the left hand (assuming you're right-handed-my sympathies to southpaws having to reload a revolver with any modicum of speed :eek:); the two middle fingers and thumb holding the cylinder in place and supporting it while the right hand inserts the rounds with the speedloader. Even though it goes against what might seem to be logical, I've found that sliding the MaxiFire off in a 90 degree direction per their instructions is considerably faster than peeling or levering it off-and, believe me, I've experimented extensively with both "methods". Too, I fail to see how applying the pressure involved in removing a MaxiFire from a properly supported cylinder could result in a bent crane (reports to the contrary not withstanding).

As I said earlier, I am no fan of the MaxiFire but it's the only device I know of that will reload my particular revolver faster than hand picking.

And thanks earlthegoat2 for the links. I found them to be very interesting.
 
SwampWolf, I also use the reloading method you describe (FBI style??). And it is true that if your fingers are suporting the cylinder then how on this green earth could you damage a crane?

And if I can use them I do like the Safariland loaders the best. Sometimes modification of the grips has to be done to clear certian loaders.
 
And it is true that if your fingers are suporting the cylinder then how on this green earth could you damage a crane?

My sentiments exactly! If you can bend the crane of a revolver by using any speedloader my advice would be to think about changing revolvers before considering switching speedloaders.
 
my advice would be to think about changing revolvers before considering switching speedloaders.

Or reloading technique if you hold the gun with the right hand and load with the left and you are a righty.
 
I had Safariland speedloaders years ago for my model 13 and I loved them !! Just push in the rounds and when the speedloader hits the tip of the shaft, the speedloader dumps the rounds. They were excellent.
I saw several LEO's (using the kind with the aluminum knob you had to turn to dump the rounds) pitch the speedloader still full of rounds because under timed shooting pressure, the knob didn't get turned completely and dump the rounds in to the cylinder. That is what convinced me the Safariland speedloader were the best. They never failed many loadings.
That being said ....if the speedloader doesn't fit you gun, it doesn't matter who makes it. At that point, you have to consider using speed strips and practice loading 2 rounds in the cylinder at a time.
Ohio Rusty ><>
 
I saw several LEO's (using the kind with the aluminum knob you had to turn to dump the rounds) pitch the speedloader still full of rounds because under timed shooting pressure, the knob didn't get turned completely and dump the rounds in to the cylinder. That is what convinced me the Safariland speedloader were the best. They never failed many loadings.

Before my agency transitioned to autos, I carried a Smith K-
frame revolver chambered in .357 Magnum and used the speedloaders you are referring to (HKS brand) but never experienced the trouble you speak of-though I can see how it could happen. The Safariland loaders seem to bean excellent design but are bulkier-not a problem when carried on a Sam Browne belt but something to consider when carrying concealed. To be honest, I've never used them and I'm thinking maybe I should give them a try. I know a lot of people swear by them; certainly you and earlthegoat2 do!
 
Last edited:
Ohio Rusty said:
I saw several LEO's (using the kind with the aluminum knob you had to turn to dump the rounds) pitch the speedloader still full of rounds because under timed shooting pressure, the knob didn't get turned completely and dump the rounds in to the cylinder.

Do ya one better: I dumped all six rounds during an IDPA match. They hit the ground before they got near the revolver. I had managed to twist the knob in mid-air. It was also my last reload, so I got on my knees and scrambled around grabbing cartridges. I did not post a good time on that course.

OTOH, I've dropped my Safariland's from three feet onto concrete. Never released a round. If I can get them, I always use Safariland Comps.
 
I'll chime in on the Safarilands. All of my experience comes from (extensively) shooting a 629, mostly with .44 Specials, in IDPA competition. Safariland only makes the Comp I for a .44. I thought I was really smart to get a few of those instead of the HKSs, as I'd seen so many shooters ROCKET through their reloads with Comp IIIs.

What a let-down! The Comp Is are a truly horrible product (at least in .44). I've seen few products that worked as poorly, as consistently, that weren't recalled or discontinued. Hard to load, hard to release, BUT, they sure release fine, in ones or twos, while riding in a vest pocket! :banghead:

Perhaps I was using them too hard, or too much, but I abandoned them after only two or three months of solid use. Which was pretty agonizing as I watched all my K-frame shooting buddies have such success with their Comp IIIs!

The HKS twist-knobs work consistently and are fast enough to get me into SSR Expert. Maybe with Comp IIIs I'd shoot into Master class with the .44. But I'll not be going back to Comp Is.

-Sam
 
I should point out that I, and most people who praise Safariland, use Comp-II or Comp-III's. I've never even seen a Comp-I up close, let alone use it.

I don't think you can use a Comp-II or III too hard. I have a Comp-II that I use with my Model 10 (.38 Special). It used to belong to a police department, who used it for training. They did NOT treat it well. They cared about it so little they left it behind at the range and eventually the range owner gave it to me. I've used it regularly, dropped it, even thrown it lightly at a wall. It's never disengaged a round.

Sadly, Comp-II's and III's aren't made for many models. I'd use HKS in that case.
 
Sadly, Comp-II's and III's aren't made for many models.
I found just the opposite; when looking for some more Comp I's for my GP 100 (I have one Comp I for it) -- no longer made. I bought the Comp II's instead, and like them better anyway. Never tried an HKS, but I don't like the idea of twisting the knob. I did try some Maxfires, but they wouldn't work well at all and I sent them back.

As far as the LCR, just be patient; it takes a while for the after-market folks to tool up for a new revolver. Too bad Ruger didn't think to offer one themselves.
 
Last edited:
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top