Metering Problems With Tubular Powder

Status
Not open for further replies.

munitor

Member
Joined
Aug 25, 2006
Messages
4
I'm just getting back into reloading after about 20 years. While waiting for my dies to get here, I picked a powder for .222 Remington and started practicing throwing charges. I am aware of technique and consistent operation, but am throwing between 20.0 and 20.6 grains of IMR4198. Besides the occasional bridging and grains trying to stick in the drop tube, and even the herky jerky action while cutting grains, I get the variation on even the smoothest of throws. I am not optimistic about trying a powder dipper, either. Should I assume that reloaders using these tubular powders are using a powder trickler and weighing each charge? For use with a powder measure, should I only consider powders like 748 and H335?
 
I'm no expert, but for rifles I weigh each charge regardless. What I do is use the thrower to get myself close, but still a tenth or 3 under the desired weight. Then trickle to the desired weight. I only use stick powders, so far at least.

Some stick powders are better for metering than others. Varget definitely meters better than RL19 or IMR4831. If you want to stick to stick powders, there are some that are cut finer than others. I'm not sure which ones fit that description, but I've seen other people here talk about powders that are cut to half the lenght or so of "normal" stick powders.
 
I use 4064 and 4895 in a Uniflo. I find that being consistant with the handle is the key. Grab the handle and act like I mean business, also use a baffle and try to keep the powder at a consistant level. I check every round for the first ten and if its settled down I check maybe every five. I only load short and trickle the charge up if I am around maximum loads.
 
I couldn't get the stick powders to meter with my Uniflow well at all, then tried the cheap Lee Perfect Powder measure,and it works well with the stick powders. It leaks like a seive with call powders, so the two of them get a good workout.
 
Thanks, sumpnz, on the powder trickler advice

As a wannabe equipment freak, I already have a shiny new Redding powder trickler gathering dust by my scale. I think I bought it mostly as an ornament, originally. I had never even seen one on a bench or used before. I used to think they were for reloaders that couldn't or wouldn't afford a powder measure. Or maybe some Easterner affectation. When you see reloading outfits at auctions or yard sales around here, there is never a powder trickler. Of course, all my buddies and brothers-in-law are volume oriented. My motivations have changed since the late seventies when I'd knock out a couple boxes of 9mms on my old man's press and shoot them up in a few minutes. Then, a factory cartridge was the case length gauge. Now, I've got a real Swiss dial caliper and a micrometer on the way. I'm actually looking forward to the satisfaction of carefully bringing charges up to weight with a trickler, which kind of surprises me. But then again, I guess I didn't get a triple deuce just to spray lead like I did with my early wonder nine. But now I am curious as to why a lot of rifle shooters even bother to buy a powder measure. I bought a Lee powder dipper kit on a lark, but I am thinking that I could choose a dipper under my target weight and trickle up to the charge. I won't have to fight the stick powder that way.
 
chawbaccer, I see a load for 4895 that I can use. I may try it when I get this 4198 used up.
 
armoredman, I have read in posts and in advertising and gun magazine articles that the Lee powder measures work well with stick powders. I recall a post where some guy developed a technique of placing a small piece of plastic sheeting or something in his Lee measure that totally controls spillage. I have a new Uniflow, plus I picked an old used one up at a second hand store because it was so cheap. I also have an old Hornady Deluxe I got off eBay in a package deal. It may be awhile before I am willing to try another measure, but I will probably give a Lee powder measure a try one of these days. I was fooling around with the Hornady measure and H110 (for my Hornet) and bound up the drum really bad. It was like trying to meter and cut iron filings. I put some graphite on the drum and it got worse! It was the pistol chamber which is aluminum. I think the aluminum was the problem. I cleaned the heck out of it and polished it and may reserve it for the 45 auto when I get some dies. I used Unique exclusively for 9mm back in the seventies and don't recall any problems whatsoever. Or I might try Winchester ball powder in the Hornady powder measure.
 
Same here... couldn't discover the technique to make my Uniflow throw consistent weights of big stick powders, and trickling every charge didn't sound like my idea of fun. I changed to all ball powders and have been happy ever since. Perhaps I'm giving up some important advantages of stick powders that I'll discover when I get more experience.
 
Wayne,

In my case I'm loading for 6.5x55mm and that caliber, especially with 140gr bullets needs really slow powders. Even with the 120gr it works best with relativley slow powders. Slow powders are usually stick powders (at least all the ones I've tried have been).
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top