Militec-1?

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I flux between Militec-1, FP-10 and Break Free CLP.

They all work great on firearms and knives.

Militec-1
Pros: Nice bottle. Easy to use. Lubes well, "bonds to metal"
Cons: Picks up lint and fuzz very easy

FP-10 CLP
Pros: Great Lube use it for all actions. Leaves your guns smelling great. This is my Primary Lube of choice. Use it on barrels, actions slides, frames etc.
Cons: Crummy bottles and lube is thick

Break Free CLP:
Pros: Great Lube, comes in a aerosol bottle
Cons: Stinks
 
45R,

Of the three you mentioned....

I'm curious which one you think has the best long term storage characteristics?

Thanks,
Don.
 
Its all I use now. Works great.

45R, I don't understand what you mean when you say it picks up lint/fuzz; don't all the lubes? I haven't found Militec to be any worse or better than the others and am curious to hear about your experience.
 
I appreciate the input, guys. I find myself the owner of a 4oz. bottle plus a small sample bottle full, and am just looking for any experiences before I start using it. One of their claims is that it doesn't attract particulate like CLP does, but I haven't used it enough yet to determine if that's true. Actually I believe they claim you can wipe off any external Militec-1 to prevent the particulate pickup and it'll still provide lubrication. They claim they made some emergency shipments to units in Iraq that were having trouble with the CLP gunking up weapons with sand, etc.
 
I've been using Militec-1 on and off for several years now (I'm always looking for the ultimate lube) and I like it. I haven't found that it attracts fuzz and lint any more than anything else I've tried.
I like FP-10 also, but in a very unscientific test that I conducted, I found that Militec-1 had better lubricating qualities. Others have done tests that show FP-10 to be superior to Militec-1 in terms of corrosion protection.
The bottom line is, Militec-1 is a very good lubricant and I wouldn't hesitate to use it if I were you.
 
I recently started using Militec on my 1911. Lubes very well, seems to stay on for a long time... guess that's the metal bonding thing.

Also noted that it seems to work better if you lube it up, go to the shootin range, then wipe it down and lube it up again. Maybe the heat and use helped it "bond" better, or maybe it just worked into all the nooks and crannies better.

don't smell so terribly bad, either.

anyways, I like it. and it does seem to last longer.

they have a grease, too. havent tried it. it's new.
 
Maybe the heat and use helped it "bond" better, or maybe it just worked into all the nooks and crannies better.

Their website claims the heat helps it bond. They say if you can't make it to the range to heat it with a hair dryer or a heat gun. I just put some on my .22 the other evening and I like it so far...
 
I have a sample and the rep told me to apply it first, then use a blow dryer for about ten minutes to get the metal to around 150 degrees if you can't get out and shoot it...they don't reccomend grease on a gun since the oil bonds well and doesn't gunk up like grease will with dirt and dust...
 
Militec is all I use...

After you use it about three times, it becomes apparent just how slick things can get. I just took the slide off my Seecamp. I can't remember how long ago I lubed it with Militec. But, there it was. Still under the slide making things slick. You can order a little sample bottle. It's free, does lots and lots of guns, and most importantly~you can see for yourself. I use Militec on my knives too. I've got a Dalton "SEAL" that opens so hard, it hurts my wrist. It's due to the Militec.

KR
 
i thought i'd heard that somewhere, that the heat is the trick... good to know it's on their website (and therefore i'm not losing it, yet)... wasn't mentioned in the little pamphlet that came with it.

i like the long metal scary syringe thingy that came with the bottle, too
 
Serpico wrote:

"I have a sample and the rep told me to apply it first, then use a blow dryer for about ten minutes to get the metal to around 150 degrees if you can't get out and shoot it"

I disassemble new guns or other guns I haven't treated with Militec yet and bake the metal parts in the oven on low heat for about 10 minutes. I coat the Militec all over the parts and give them a good baking. If you are married, I recommend you do this when your wife is out of the house.
 
I got the free samples from their website (lube and grease). I used it on a few of my guns and it seemed to slick things up quite well. In particular, I noticed my High Power's slide felt smoother.

It may not be the best for corrosion protection, though, based on one or two test results I've seen online.

I am happy with it but I also want to try out FP-10 to compare it. My main gun oil for the past few years has been automatic transmission fluid, which works well.
 
I received a sample of their "oil" and grease.

My questions:

1 -- Has anyone used their "oil" on a Glock?

2 -- For what firearm application would you use their grease product rather than their "oil" product?

Thanks...

:confused: :confused: :confused:
 
My questions:

1 -- Has anyone used their "oil" on a Glock?


yes, i love it

with Militec-1, less is more

one small drop on the barrel, wipe it all around. then wipe the extra oil from your finger inside the slide where the chamber area of the barrel slides (hood? maybe, i dunno)

one small drop where the connector and trigger bar meet, one on each frame rail, and one small drop on the locking block where the barrel rotates on it.

then take a patch with a few drops of Militec-1 on it and run it down your barrel.

the heat from firing bonds the oil to the barrel and keeps particles from sticking to it. for me, this makes cleanup a breeze.
 
David wrote:

My questions:

1 -- Has anyone used their "oil" on a Glock?

2 -- For what firearm application would you use their grease product rather than their "oil" product?


1 - I use Militec on my Glock 19 and all my other pistols.

2 - I use a light coat of grease (Militec grease or Slick 50 One Grease, multi-purpose grease) on the slide rails and hammer/slide interface on most of my pistols, particularly lightweight ones like Kel-Tecs. I use Militec-1 on the other places that need lube.
 
Some like to use grease in the summer when oil is more likely to run off. I like Breakfree as a protector and miltec as a lube. I also put miltec in my truck, car, mower, weedeater and chainsaw. I am reading up on O.C.D. and thinking of joining a 12 step program.

Mike
 
I just got my free sample of militec in the mail. I used it to lube my 1911 a few days ago after cleaning, and all I can say is that it STINKS. I dunno what you guys are thinking, CLP smells MUCH better than the militec. Oh well, my opinion is just as irrelevant as yours, I suppose. I haven't gotten a chance to go shooting with it yet, but I'm sure it will work fine.
 
Glock User

I have also been a user of Militec on my Glocks (21 & 22) and then I tried Firepower FP-10. I am now a convert.

I think that that FP-10 as a CLP is great and cleans very well. I also think that the FP-10 and Militec are great lubes, but why go through all the hassle of hair dryers, etc when you can have one product for both clean and lube.

I may not have as much experience as many of you because I have only been into firearms about 1 year or so, but I have tried a lot of things (Tetra, MPro7, Breakfree, Militec, etc) and I like FP-10 best.

It just works. Plain and simple.

Oh...and get the Mil-Spec brand Firepower. It is the same as Shooters Choice but I prefer the mil-spec Firepower FP-10


www.FP-10.com
 
If you purchase a bottle of Shooters Choice FP-10, it may or may not be the mil-spec version depending on its age on your store's shelves.

That's why I get it from the manufacturer--MPC products.

But if you get a newer bottle of Shooter's Choice FP-10, then it will be the same formula as the MPC brand.

Read on www.fp-10.com about he two products to understand more.

All I have are Glocks, and if I were to have one product to lube, it would still be FP-10 over Militec. Just remember with Glocks, less is more, and the most important oil point is where the connector and trigger bar "rub".
 
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