Mixed vs Sorted Brass in 9mm "Target"

[Rule3]

So are we now saying that different headstamps vs the same matter enough on other calibers (handgun)? Not talking bechrest rifle shooters where everything matters.

I am still in the camp that I can not shoot well enough to know the difference

 

[Walkalong]

No. Yes.

My 9MM reloads have been accurate enough for me not to toss the mixed batch and start using sorted again, yet. I cannot imagine that in a finely accurate gun in a rest that would shoot mixed as well as sorted, but is it enough to worry with. Let's say it makes the difference between 2" and 3" groups at 50 yards. Well, I could not utilize that kind of accuracy anyway, so is it worth it? What is the actual difference? I don't know.

I have never shot IDPA etc, but have no doubt my reloads are good enough for that. A miss would be all me.

Bullseye? I don't know, because I cannot shoot that well.

 

[Rule3]

At one time I did mess around with shooting 38 Special using all once fired brass from the same box. Weighed every charge and did get very good chronograph results. The accuracy was good also. Was it better than just my regular reloading?? No. At least with revolvers there is no doing the range pick up brass dance!

 

[forestswin]

Well what about load development??????????

Wouldn't it help to eliminate as many variables as can easily be done as you're searching for the best powder charge?

I don't get the sort issue

just keep them together from the start - put the spent cases back in the box from whence they came - put a hash mark on the box to track number of times fired (takes a half second)
I have 4 or 5 boxes of each headstamp (200-250) and I introduce 200 at a time of new Starline entering the mix - so each of my "LOTS" go into the tumbler together - no mixing - SO NO SORTING

I did buy 2 - 3 pound bags of once fired 9mm from an indoor range once - and yes I took the time to sort by headstamp - but I also had to sort out the .380 cases anyway

I can see when you've already determined your "load" and you just want to plink away or work on your shooting skills - yeah go ahead and mix and match and throw "close" powder charges. I agree that's good enough

But, I'm a firm believer in one variable at a time for load development - it just gives you more valuable information on the target and in your chrono data!

 

[Walkalong]

I work up loads in the mixed brass.

I tried mixed vs all new Starline .38 Spl, and could not shoot the difference it that either. YMMV of course, if your good enough.

 

[Rule3]

Well what about load development??????????



I can see when you've already determined your "load" and you just want to plink away or work on your shooting skills - yeah go ahead and mix and match and throw "close" powder charges. I agree that's good enough

But, I'm a firm believer in one variable at a time for load development - it just gives you more valuable information on the target and in your chrono data!

Yes, I agree, but the statement about "throw "close" powder charges." is not the issue.
The powder charges are the same, exact as my powder measure can throw. The issue is same headstamp which to me I have found no measurable difference in accuracy to be worth keeping semi auto brass separated.I consider myself a fairly good shooter but not enough to know what that certain headstamp gave me a better more accurate hit on the target.

Even if you get a bag of mixed brass and sort by headstamp, there is no telling which lot those pieces of brass came from or even if they are once fired. Searching for exacting chronograph number perhaps, but again it's what accuracy is there? If you sort by headstamp you will also need to trim them all to the same length

It certainly can not hurt to sort and record number of times loaded but I do not do it. As mentioned it's a lot easier to keep track of revolver brass.

 

[1SOW]

Reloading consistency 'should' improve the chrono numbers, if that's a concern.

Sorted headstamps do make my turret press reloads more consistent.
The difference between say a Blazer/CCI/.FC(ATK brass). and WIN, PPU,/WCC is very noticeable for OALs and tapercrimp due to much thicker/harder brass in the later.

When I shoot, can I tell the difference?---No, not for action shooting sports.

 

[Shrinkmd]

How about cold temperature?

I was out testing in the cold, and the temps did not get above 28 or so. I noticed a larger ES and SD, about 11.6 with a charge of 3.7 gr of Bullseye. It was also pretty windy today, and at times the chronograph was shaking in the breeze, so I guess that would effect the results? Would the cold result in less reliable ignition, compared to when it's 10-20 degrees warmer? Also my hands were very cold, so my hold on the gun was probably not as consistent.

On the plus side they all fired properly, now that the primer seating depth on the 1050 is set correctly (way too high from the factory!) The 952 started to have trouble going fully into battery after another 100 rounds, but I didn't clean from the last time, and didn't relube, so the gun was very cold, dirty, and not wet with lube. For comparison, the M&P9c worked just fine. Not as accurate, but definitely more reliable. I think they both need a good bath...

 

[Rule3]

Yes, temp can effect certain powders. Some are very temp sensitive, some even are inversely affected.

I do not know if Bullseye is one of those, nor do I know what swing in temp actually makes a difference?

Is 29 degrees enough to change it? Or does it need to be colder?

 

[Mad Chemist]

I only sort 9mm brass for tests when I'm working up a load. I usually save good condition nickel plated and use that for the tests. Using nickel makes it easier to recover and inspect spent casings.