Discussion in 'Handguns: Revolvers' started by 336A, Mar 7, 2010.
That's not much I might send in my 19-4:
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Anyway it is a really good load, it is accurate and makes the Ol' .38SPL speak with authority
I won't list the exact charge as I really don't want to be visited by the "overload police". Sufice it to say though it is a load still listed by Lyman and has been around longer than I, it is about 2 tenths of a grain higher than other published sources. I'm sure if it wasn't safe then Lyman would have never published it. My next little expirement is going to be with a 190gr WFN bullet. Kind of along the lines of the old Super Police loading. I don't use jacketed bullets for my hand loads as I feel the .38SPL is better suited for use with lead bullets.
. No 158gr. were in stock, so I've got some Rainier 125gr FN coming to get me going until I can find some 158's. I've got a bottle of Clays and am looking at starting with the .5 dipper (3.4 grains). The Lee book lists 3.5 as the maximum charge for that powder & 125gr lead. Anyone here tried this?
My 64 is such a pleasant revolver to shoot - I really want to be able to afford to shoot more often by reloading.
Gotta keep the little buggers fed.
That gets close to perfection for me, at least for a carry gun. I love the long action Smiths trigger pull. I won't likely do it to my victory, but if I found a beater of a transitional model in good mechanical shape, I would love to bob the hammer, round the grip, and give it a 3 inch barrel.
Should have this 3" 10-8 by middle of the week, and I'll try to take a better picture:
It's funny that I ignored fixed-sight K-Frames for so long, thinking they weren't capable of the same accuracy as their target-sighted brethren. I was obviously wrong:
Mine was my Grandpa's gun, bought from a sheriff friend of his. It's pristine, little shot when I inherited it in 1981. It's from the early 60s. It's still very tight. I probably have put several thousand rounds, mostly wadcutters, though it. It cracked the forcing cone on the original pencil barrel and I found a heavy barrel in a Shotgun News from J&G sales for 50 bucks and had a gunsmith fit it. I kinda prefer the heavy barrel's balance. Both are/were 4" barrels.
For plinking/practice, I load 3.5gr Bullseye behind any 158gr cast lead semi-wadcutter. I could probably use 3.9-4.0gr of W231 for the same purposes. They're accurate enough at 20 feet for my purposes (as in one ragged hole in the middle of a 3x5" index card). Beyond that, if I wanted real Bullseye accuracy, I'd use my pet wadcutter load of 3.1gr W231 behind a swaged (not cast) 148gr HBWC bullet. Or if I wanted to do the same with a 158gr semi-wadcutter, I'd use 3.6gr AA#2 and a swaged (not cast) 158gr LSWC bullet.
If I wanted +Ps, I'd probably bump up the loads by a bit (maybe half a grain? I'd have to consult my loading manuals).
For defense, I use factory Federal 158gr LSWCHP +P, the "FBI Load".
Your 10-14 should be a round-butt. You can find service/"magna" grips on ebay and gunbroker for about what you're looking to pay.
When I bought that one it had a twice bulged 5" barrel and grips made of pressure treated pine (no joke).
A member of the S&W forum gave me a 6" nickeled barrel from a 10-2. I removed the nickel, cut it down to 3.25", re-attached the front sight cut from the 5", re-crowned it, re-installed it and cold blued the bbl. I ended up with a 0.05 B/C gap and a great pointing gun. I salvaged the grips from a gun show and carried it for a while. I was going to bob the hammer, relieve the trigger guard and round the butt when some medical bills took priority and gun was sold...
All was done by hand BTW without a lathe or a mill.
Part of me would like to do it to my Victory, but I know certain members of this board would hunt me down if I did, even though it was poorly refinished and property marks were nearly obliterated.
It's not too bad in the photos either...WOW!
Mine's accurate, 1.5" at 25 yards off sand bags, but I do own (Blasphemy) a 4" Taurus 66 that shoots 1" clusters with either 140 Speer JHP over 17 grains 2400 in magnum brass or my 2.7 grain B'eye Lee WC load. Ditto my 6.5" .357 Ruger Blackhawk.
However, 1/2" off sand bags at 25 yards is really getting nit picky. Besides, I can't shoot any iron sighted handgun of 4" plus barrel any better. My Ruger Mk 2 .22 was a 1" shooter and when I put a scope on it, I found it actually could shoot 1/2" at 25 yards. So, with that sort of accuracy, we're getting into the realm of user error. At any rate, the ol' M10 will outshoot almost ANY new fangled service auto chucker. I have ONE auto that does about as well, a Ruger P90. Most I've owned or fired, 3" is a good 25 yard group and most of the magazine "experts" tend to tout that 4" or less at 25 yards is good 'nuf for a police service gun, let alone self defense.
I just bought an old revolver from a buddy of mine who is in dire financial straits. It is a civilian S&W First Model .38 Military and Police (Model of 1899). 6 1/2" barrel, fixed sights, .38 Special, made in 1899 or 1900(?), serial number just under 1600. It still has a lot of original blue and the action is strong and tight. He shot it regularly. His grandfather bought it about 90 years ago and left it to him. It even came with a box of ammunition and an old, unmarked slim jim holster. I ended up paying $250 for it to help him out. I'm not sure what I'll do with it, but it should be a lot of fun!
Note: I gave him an open invitation to buy it back at this price when he gets back on his feet.
ok here is the off topic/heretical part of the post. i Really like the fixed trench/flatop/front site. seems very quick yet precise. i like the barrel profile and heft. the only parts i dont like is the humpback frame, and the fact that its 38spec.
so what S/W has the features i like (blue, 4" heavy barrel flatop trench/sites) but also is 357
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