Wreck-n-Crew
Member
Warning pic heavy!
I've been planning this project for a little while and for the past several days I have been working on it. I have a Model 70 with a Synthetic stock and blind mag. I wanted to put a wood stock and bed the action with Devcon. My first thought's were using a Boyd's stock to save a little cash, cut down on workload, etc. But I found an older (90's or older) Walnut stock that needed some love so I went for it.
Stock before...
My first hopes was to be able to touch the stock up but that was not the way to go as I soon realized. It had a few dents and dings but several scratches and needed to be redone. So I stripped the stock and used a wet washcloth and iron to pull out the two dings. They came out well and finished with a bit of sanding.
Next I realized that the adapter I ordered would not work so I had to make one. I grabbed up a Piece of 1/4" aluminum and went to the shop. Tools even there are limited but the work space is much better. I had access to a cut off saw, a bench grinder, and a drill press there. So I cut out an oversized blank and made a pattern of the stock. transferred the outline to have something to go by and got to work grinding, drilling, sanding and buffing.
The plate needed to have a stepped undercut to go under the trigger guard. Then the trigger guard need some slight stepping so that the two pieces could be held on with the center screw. Cme out well and got the fit I needed...
So on to bedding there is not much to tell. Modeling clay, Rotary tool Prep, Bed with Devcon, sit 24hours (only needed 18), and cleanup. I removed the trigger assembly and used a steel grinding bit for the rotary tool (have a Dremil but batteries stink) that plugs in to the wall for long projects. The Bit made quick work of removing the material I needed to have some thickness in the bedding. Inletting done!
When the bedding was done I finalized the accuracy work by free floating the channel until folded paper (color flyers a little thicker than notebook paper) passed easily down the whole channel. All it took was 120grit and follow up with 220 grit sand paper and done!
I may powder coat that to blend in later.
I used a Hogue but pad (not a slip on) and had to mate the two because the older style stock had a curve so I leveled it up and finish sanded the stock butt and screwed on the recoil pad. Then shaped it to the stock....Done!
Along the way I decided to use Polyurethane but I wanted a satin or matte finish. Wasn't going for the shiny look. I even was considering Linseed oil. But my time may have run out and I needed to get things done. Getting things done was not the way to go when choosing a polyurethane.
Anyhow I went to a local hardware store to get some and I was trying to figure what I wanted in a finish. Like Most Ace Hardware stores the guy working there came up and offered help. I really didn't need it as I was planning a brush on polyurethane. Anyway he suggest the spray. He said I could brush it on and that it was thinner down and covered better for light coats. All I can say is bad advice, wrong and I learned a lesson. The poly came out shiny. Not what I wanted. Wrong can too or brand I don't know but it wasn't dry after 24 hours so (mistake) I read the can. 5 days full cure! are you kidding me?
Affter the second day (good thing I had more things to do) it hardened pretty well and I stripped it again (ugh). At this time I'm thinking Linseed but I had some Teak Oil. Teak oil is mainly for Teak by description but is for hardwoods in general. Teak can be applied and after 3 days can be gone over with polyurethane. Plus it cures to handle and use after only 8 hours. Turned out too shiny. but after another wipe down with some mineral spirits the shine settled down. That's the look I wanted!
This is where I am now. Polyurethane later, should be the same look...at least I hope so!
I started this project on the Gunsmithing section of THR and figured why not share it with the rifle section. I'm no pro by any means and any input is welcome!
I've been planning this project for a little while and for the past several days I have been working on it. I have a Model 70 with a Synthetic stock and blind mag. I wanted to put a wood stock and bed the action with Devcon. My first thought's were using a Boyd's stock to save a little cash, cut down on workload, etc. But I found an older (90's or older) Walnut stock that needed some love so I went for it.
Stock before...
My first hopes was to be able to touch the stock up but that was not the way to go as I soon realized. It had a few dents and dings but several scratches and needed to be redone. So I stripped the stock and used a wet washcloth and iron to pull out the two dings. They came out well and finished with a bit of sanding.
Next I realized that the adapter I ordered would not work so I had to make one. I grabbed up a Piece of 1/4" aluminum and went to the shop. Tools even there are limited but the work space is much better. I had access to a cut off saw, a bench grinder, and a drill press there. So I cut out an oversized blank and made a pattern of the stock. transferred the outline to have something to go by and got to work grinding, drilling, sanding and buffing.
The plate needed to have a stepped undercut to go under the trigger guard. Then the trigger guard need some slight stepping so that the two pieces could be held on with the center screw. Cme out well and got the fit I needed...
So on to bedding there is not much to tell. Modeling clay, Rotary tool Prep, Bed with Devcon, sit 24hours (only needed 18), and cleanup. I removed the trigger assembly and used a steel grinding bit for the rotary tool (have a Dremil but batteries stink) that plugs in to the wall for long projects. The Bit made quick work of removing the material I needed to have some thickness in the bedding. Inletting done!
When the bedding was done I finalized the accuracy work by free floating the channel until folded paper (color flyers a little thicker than notebook paper) passed easily down the whole channel. All it took was 120grit and follow up with 220 grit sand paper and done!
I may powder coat that to blend in later.
I used a Hogue but pad (not a slip on) and had to mate the two because the older style stock had a curve so I leveled it up and finish sanded the stock butt and screwed on the recoil pad. Then shaped it to the stock....Done!
Along the way I decided to use Polyurethane but I wanted a satin or matte finish. Wasn't going for the shiny look. I even was considering Linseed oil. But my time may have run out and I needed to get things done. Getting things done was not the way to go when choosing a polyurethane.
Anyhow I went to a local hardware store to get some and I was trying to figure what I wanted in a finish. Like Most Ace Hardware stores the guy working there came up and offered help. I really didn't need it as I was planning a brush on polyurethane. Anyway he suggest the spray. He said I could brush it on and that it was thinner down and covered better for light coats. All I can say is bad advice, wrong and I learned a lesson. The poly came out shiny. Not what I wanted. Wrong can too or brand I don't know but it wasn't dry after 24 hours so (mistake) I read the can. 5 days full cure! are you kidding me?
Affter the second day (good thing I had more things to do) it hardened pretty well and I stripped it again (ugh). At this time I'm thinking Linseed but I had some Teak Oil. Teak oil is mainly for Teak by description but is for hardwoods in general. Teak can be applied and after 3 days can be gone over with polyurethane. Plus it cures to handle and use after only 8 hours. Turned out too shiny. but after another wipe down with some mineral spirits the shine settled down. That's the look I wanted!
This is where I am now. Polyurethane later, should be the same look...at least I hope so!
I started this project on the Gunsmithing section of THR and figured why not share it with the rifle section. I'm no pro by any means and any input is welcome!
