Mod's 19 - 66 - 686

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The model 19 is a K frame in carbon steel. Finished in blue or sometimes in nickel. Six round 357.
The model 66 is a K frame in stainless steel. Same as the model 19 made of different material. Six round 357.
The model 686 is a larger "L" frame than the 19 or 66 made in stainless steel. There are some variations with more than 6 shots.

All were/are available in different barrel lengths.
 
19 vs 66 only differance is what they are made of, stainless, carbin steel. these guns are built on the K frame, The K frame was used mostly for 38spc and a steady diet of full load 357 probly aint the best thing for it...
The 686 on the other hand is built on a L frame developed for the 357. this gun can handle any factory load 357 all day long....
When I was younger I didn`t know why anyone would want anything but a L frame but now that I`m a old fart I only have K frames...The L frame is bigger and feels like a tank when your carring it...
 
The 686 is more robust and makes a better target and range gun. The 19/66 are smaller, less robust, but make better trail and camping guns, in my opinion. I frankly think there's a market for a good, lighter weight .357 that's not a bantum weight gun. For overnight outings or hiking, I'd prefer a 6-inch 66 to a 4-inch 686. But if I were going to do a lot of magnum shooting, I'd have to go with a 686.
 
KT would be the variation that the Model 19/66 would be built on. K size, adjustable sight cuts.

The 686 is more robust and makes a better target and range gun. The 19/66 are smaller, less robust, but make better trail and camping guns, in my opinion

Good info.

I have a 6" 586. Nice, but a bit barrel heavy. I believe I would prefer a 6" 66. I am looking at the 66 and 686 with a 4" barrel. It would be shot at the range 99.9% of the time, mostly with .38 power loads in .357 brass. I am leaning towards a 4" 686 to help reduce recoil, but the 66 is a sweet gun also. :)
 
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The 66 and 686 are definitely both fine guns. Ive got both. A 6" and 4" 686 ( both dash 5s), and a 4" 66 (dash 2). I'm VERY partial to the 6" 686, and you certainly do want the somewhat tougher L-Frame if you plan to be shooting a lot of particularly high power loads. It's a tough call though, because there is just something about the k-frame that feels nice. I'd agree with Confederate's statements in post #6 entirely.
 
Although I prefer the 6" , I do think the 4" is almost perfectly balanced. Either way though, I do prefer the full underlug barrel on my 686s compared to the k-frame. Some people would disagree, but personally I feel that particular weight distribution seems to keep me sort of centered and I have less drift in my sighting.
 
Model 66

I've finally decided that I am first and foremost a revolver guy, and was delighted to come across a S&W 66 4". I'm looking forward to shooting it, but it came with finger-grooved grips that readily don't match my "handprint" when I grasp the revolver. I don't plan to use it as my primary carry gun, but it is a possibility and even a second's fumbling for a solid handhold might be trouble.

Should I just get used to the existing grips through practice, or can you recommend good, non-grooved grips as replacements?
 
I have a mod 66 with 2 and a quarter inch barrel, used for ccw and had Hogue grips added for better handling. It is not that heavy in a proper holster. Good for home use too.
Also have a 686 in six inch barrel used for target only. Recently added an ultradot sight. This made a big difference in my targets. Use mostly hand loaded wadcutter's in 357 cases with W231. Very accurate. The six inch barrel is better at the range. If you add a red dot sight check out the universal B-SQUARE mounts they require no gunsmithing and are really well made and fit like a glove.
 
Although I prefer the 6" , I do think the 4" is almost perfectly balanced. Either way though, I do prefer the full underlug barrel on my 686s compared to the k-frame.

And Goldilocks said "This 5" half-lugged 686+ is just right!"
 
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