MOKWEPA, Amature knife making part 2

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Fighting knife, eh? Valkman has some beautiful examples of modern fighters on his site....

Another thing to try would be a double-edged knife, like this loose enterpretation of a bollock dagger I made:

10" blade, 16" OAL, despite its tip heavy appearance, balances 1/2" in front of the "guard", oak furniture, full tang tapers to 1/4" thread for retention..... About 1/4" - 3/16" thick.

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Double edge blades are a completely different can'o'worms....

J
 
Nice job, Mokwepa!

You're taking big strides with your work! In just this short time we've seen you grow in skill. It's beginning to reflect your talent.
 
Thanks for the kind words hso.


7x57: thats a good looking blade, i remember it from the other thread. I dont know if im ready to attempt a double edged blade after the last spear(the one that cracked), need to better my forging skills abit first. At the moment im more interested in learning more on making the handles and gaurds.
 
Mokwepa,

Kudos, on the skinner. great lines and attention to detail.

Me, the big knife is a pain, but coming along slowly, like you I need better tools. especially my as my used grinder is about to give out.

Quarted some oak yesterday, big disappointment, this limb had no usaable grain.
also did some poplar, which is a dull boring grain.A wasted day.
 
Started my bowie (yes i know, but i like bowies) today. Planning on doing something cool with the handle but not sure what yet. Probably profile the handle the same as the skinner. Its realy comfortable, think it would be nice on a biggy.
 
Mokwepa,

good luck on the bowie,. My big knife is coming along slowly.
In reality,I have no need for one as i have several I dont use. Why do we think after a few knives we have to make a big honking fighter?
Mabe I will duct tape to a stick and call it a spear.(Smile and wink)
 
LOL. I know what you meen. I have plenty of knives and not much to do with them, i just like them and must have them, god only knows why:). What am i going to do with 2 swords and a english battle axe, I have no idea.

Any pics of your progress?

Ill get some up tomorrow.
 
Very nice work, Mokwepa!

You might get some requests for sheath work. Be sure to put a solid piece of leather sandwiched between the front and back so you blade edge doesn't just encounter stitching. That or a well placed rivet or two.
 
You could use wire that won't rust, brass or copper, in your stitching. Rivets are usually of brass. Grommets are used as well.
 
Thanks HSO, ill give it some thought and try come up with a idea that prevents me having to try buy rivets out where i am. This is a very valid point that i should of thought of, thanks for pointing it out.
 
Hey there

My boss has designed a knife/short sword that he wants me to make for him + scabbard.
Its kinda complicated but i think i can pull it off. He is definately a sword guy, he has all the swords used in "lord of rings" + 2 of the helmuts and a glove from the movie. The blade he wants me to do is quite complicated but im always up for a challenge :). This might be too much but we will see what happens. Told him that im going to finish my bowie first though. If i get a chance, ill take a photo of the drawing and post it.

Sounds fun to me.
 
Heh.

I picked up some knock-offs of the LOTR swords as case display pieces for when our library is promoting fantasy books (as we're doing right now). Very shiny, as you'd expect from pieces copied from aluminum originals.

I'll bet your work will have a bit more character.
 
DD,

There were varying grades of the LOTR swords. From the mass produced wall hangers that weren't worth the postage to some pretty high quality, and price, usable pieces.

Mok,

Be careful about diving into swords too quickly. Heat treat can be a nightmare on them. If you spend some time on Don Fogg's website and forum before jumping in you'll save yourself a lot of trial and error time. Also understand that a sword was a highly prized possession because of the difficulty in producing a working blade and along with being highly prized came a high price. Don't let your boss undervalue the creation of a usable sword with a good edge.
 
Thanks

His swords are mainly from "united cutlery" and look pretty good. Some are sharp and some are not, i cannot justify spending big bucks on a non functional sword, whats the point? Im a Casiberia fan, one day when i go to battle, i know my swords will do the job:)

HSO, could you give me a quick breakdown of how leather disk handles are made(what resin, epoxy is used), like KABAR's have?
 
Latest effort.

Unfinished.

What started to be a big fighter, will now be a Green River type kitchen knife.
I just was not feeling anything doing a fighter. once I swiched to a kithen knife the ideas flowed. Credit this to Jim at Black Toe, who said "follow the art not the craft"

Things to finish;
Polish and sharpen blade (1095) It was the dirty Ontario I spoke of earlier
Pins are just fitted, excess on othe side. Need to sand and stain scales - they are poplar with a red tinge.
glue scales and set pin.

Questions. I have acummulated some blanks, some in 1095 and a few in stainless.
one is in 8cr13MoV. Never worked with stainless. Any advice?


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Looking good. Are you going to round off the scales? looks square and might be uncomfortable, unless it just looks square in the photo. What colour are you going to stain the wood, dark, red etc? Sorry i have no advice on stainless, profiling should be straight forward but no idea on the HT. I read somewhere that stainless needs to be heated then cooled rapidly down to like -80degrees. I am probably very wrong though.

Making progress on my new bowie. If i dont have a gamedrive this afternoon, ill get a pic up.
 
Hey Mokwepa

What kind of leather did you use? And how did you finish it? It looks great!

I use vegetable tanned leather mostly and occasionaly latigo. I am still hunting for a good way to finish vegetable-tanned. Good soybean or corn oil works pretty good but the leather is very squeaky afterward. I've tried Sno-Seal and that really does a good job but it is so sticky that it doesn't work for holsters.

I have some Armor-All leather balm (meant for leather upholstry) that I put on a test piece and I am going to try that on my next sheath that I am making right now for a Mora Craftsman Tri-Flex.

I am also going to try light olive oil on a test piece. Extra virgin has a lot of solids suspended that will probably go rancid.

How do you finish your leather?

QB
 
Im probably doing it wrong but i just take regular shoe polish, set it alight and let it melt then rub it on with a old cloth. Once its dry, i buff with a brush. Ill use dubin if i want to soften the leather but i prefer the leather stiff so that it holds its shape. Its regular cow leather, dont know how its been treated.

Here is the bowie that im busy with, going for a "classic" bowie design. My other bowie is the for people to see that havent read my other post. How do you like that sheath? A bit porno but i like it.

Kwena.jpg
 
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