jaybrown
Member
I'm looking over cast bullet molds. Why are soo few calibers setup for gas checks? Are gas checks not used much. Whats the deal. Thanks 
Last edited:
Molds: Gas Checked?
- Thread starter jaybrown
- Start date
- Status
Sharps Shooter
Member
What caliber(s)?
I'm guessing you're asking about bullet molds for handgun caliber(s) because gas check type rifle caliber bullet molds are pretty easy to find. In fact, it would probably be hard to find a .30 caliber rifle bullet mold that isn't a gas check type.
Midway sells a few gas check type handgun caliber bullet molds as does Cabela's. But you're right - neither place has a really big selection to choose from. You could have your molds custom built. Just type in "bullet molds" and hit "search." There's quite a few custom bullet mold makers around.
I don't know whether or not gas checked handgun bullets are all that popular these days. It doesn't seem like they were that easy to find back when I started casting my own handgun bullets. But that was 30 years ago, so I might not remember it right. I do have a few gas check type handgun bullet molds, but seldom use them anymore. I've gotten lazy. If I want cast gas checked handgun bullets these days, I just buy them.
I'm guessing you're asking about bullet molds for handgun caliber(s) because gas check type rifle caliber bullet molds are pretty easy to find. In fact, it would probably be hard to find a .30 caliber rifle bullet mold that isn't a gas check type.
Midway sells a few gas check type handgun caliber bullet molds as does Cabela's. But you're right - neither place has a really big selection to choose from. You could have your molds custom built. Just type in "bullet molds" and hit "search." There's quite a few custom bullet mold makers around.
I don't know whether or not gas checked handgun bullets are all that popular these days. It doesn't seem like they were that easy to find back when I started casting my own handgun bullets. But that was 30 years ago, so I might not remember it right. I do have a few gas check type handgun bullet molds, but seldom use them anymore. I've gotten lazy. If I want cast gas checked handgun bullets these days, I just buy them.
jaybrown
Member
sorry about that. Yes you are right, handgun bullets is what I'm talking about. My impression about gas checks were to reduce airborne lead emissions and protecting the face that is exposed to the burning propellent. Is this really an issue at speeds lower than 1000fps. Could you explain the benefits of gas checks. I'm very new to reloading. Thanks.
Sharps Shooter
Member
I’ve always considered the primary purpose of gas checks to be the prevention of “leading” – leaving traces of lead in the bores of my guns. Leading makes a gun inaccurate and can theoretically cause pressure problems if it gets bad enough. It can be a real pain to clean out too. I’ve never really thought about gas checks helping to prevent airborne lead emissions, but I suppose it’s possible.
Yes, gas checks do protect the base of the bullet from the burning propellent. That’s one theory, amongst many, as to how they help prevent leading. 1000fps with a relatively soft, non-gas check type cast lead bullet is probably a good upper limit. But if you get the right amount of tin and antimony in your alloy, cast at the right temperature, size your bullets to the right size for your guns bore, and use the right lube, your cast bullets won’t lead even if they’re not gas check types up to around 1500fps. I’ve also found that .38s (.357s) are more prone to leading than .41 and larger calibers.
When I said I’d become too lazy to cast my own gas check type bullets anymore that was only partially true. I really don’t like messing around with gas checks. They’re small and easy to drop with my fumbling fingers. And they often don’t fit right – they’re either so tight I have to use a lot of pressure to force them on, or they’re so loose they fall off – even the Hornady so called “crimp on” types.
For someone just getting into reloading you’re certainly enthusiastic. I’m not sure I’d try to start casting my own handgun bullets just yet – especially not gas check types. While it’s not rocket science, there’s a lot of equipment involved. You’ll need not only a mold and handles, but you’ll also need access to good alloy, a way to melt the alloy and a place to do it, and a lubricator sizer with the right sizing die. It’s just like when you bought your reloading equipment – the initial outlay of cash can be pretty nasty. Then again, there’s nothing quite like having ammo you built yourself, including the bullets, perform perfectly.
Yes, gas checks do protect the base of the bullet from the burning propellent. That’s one theory, amongst many, as to how they help prevent leading. 1000fps with a relatively soft, non-gas check type cast lead bullet is probably a good upper limit. But if you get the right amount of tin and antimony in your alloy, cast at the right temperature, size your bullets to the right size for your guns bore, and use the right lube, your cast bullets won’t lead even if they’re not gas check types up to around 1500fps. I’ve also found that .38s (.357s) are more prone to leading than .41 and larger calibers.
When I said I’d become too lazy to cast my own gas check type bullets anymore that was only partially true. I really don’t like messing around with gas checks. They’re small and easy to drop with my fumbling fingers. And they often don’t fit right – they’re either so tight I have to use a lot of pressure to force them on, or they’re so loose they fall off – even the Hornady so called “crimp on” types.
For someone just getting into reloading you’re certainly enthusiastic. I’m not sure I’d try to start casting my own handgun bullets just yet – especially not gas check types. While it’s not rocket science, there’s a lot of equipment involved. You’ll need not only a mold and handles, but you’ll also need access to good alloy, a way to melt the alloy and a place to do it, and a lubricator sizer with the right sizing die. It’s just like when you bought your reloading equipment – the initial outlay of cash can be pretty nasty. Then again, there’s nothing quite like having ammo you built yourself, including the bullets, perform perfectly.
jaybrown
Member
Thanks for the reply Sharps Shooter. I love doing things by hand and I'm very technical. Reloading is something I've wanted to do for a while so I'm really pumped up about it. The forum has been great. There seems to be alot of guys here that are willing to help and give advice. Which is nice seeing that I dont know anyone else who reloads rifle/handgun rounds. But I think your right. I'm gonna just stick with reloading for awhile and then move into the casting phase. Making your own bullets looks like soo much fun. Droping another $600 on casting equipment will take some working on... AKA my wife
snuffy
Member
Making your own bullets looks like soo much fun. Droping another $600 on casting equipment will take some working on... AKA my wife.
Whoa, $600.00? Try $60.00! That won't get you the top-of-the-line-large-capacity-bottom-pour-furnace, but you can get started for around a "C" note.
Top pic is of the lee melter I have just for pure lead, for making shotgun slugs and muzzleloading projectiles. It's hard to see, but there's a mold and dipper there also. BOTH molds to make those bullets are made by Lee. The key drive slug mold makes a slug that shoots quite well fro me in my smoothe bore 12 ga. The lee R.E.A.L. conical black powder bullet in the second pic, also shoots very well in my inline AND TC hawken.
As far as sizer dies and lubricators go, the lee push through sizer in conjunction with lee tumble lube is a VERY inexpensive way to go.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=685087
Now, I DO have a bigger furnace for when I'm running my 6 cavity lee's, it's the pro 20 bottom pour from (Yeah again), LEE! It holds 20 pounds of alloy, which it will bring to casting temp in 15-20 minutes.
As far as the gas check ??, I have molds for handgun calibers in both persuasions. I have found that in most cases, they're not needed. You CAN push a plain base bullet for a 357 magnum hard enough to make it lead. Especially if it's not hard enough. Adding a gas check type bullet, really solves the problem of leading. They may not shoot as well though!
Whoa, $600.00? Try $60.00! That won't get you the top-of-the-line-large-capacity-bottom-pour-furnace, but you can get started for around a "C" note.
Top pic is of the lee melter I have just for pure lead, for making shotgun slugs and muzzleloading projectiles. It's hard to see, but there's a mold and dipper there also. BOTH molds to make those bullets are made by Lee. The key drive slug mold makes a slug that shoots quite well fro me in my smoothe bore 12 ga. The lee R.E.A.L. conical black powder bullet in the second pic, also shoots very well in my inline AND TC hawken.
As far as sizer dies and lubricators go, the lee push through sizer in conjunction with lee tumble lube is a VERY inexpensive way to go.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=685087
Now, I DO have a bigger furnace for when I'm running my 6 cavity lee's, it's the pro 20 bottom pour from (Yeah again), LEE! It holds 20 pounds of alloy, which it will bring to casting temp in 15-20 minutes.
As far as the gas check ??, I have molds for handgun calibers in both persuasions. I have found that in most cases, they're not needed. You CAN push a plain base bullet for a 357 magnum hard enough to make it lead. Especially if it's not hard enough. Adding a gas check type bullet, really solves the problem of leading. They may not shoot as well though!
jaybrown
Member
Thanks for the pictures Snuffy. I had no idea about the lee press mounted sizer/luber. Lee stuff seems more reasonable vs. RCBS/Lyman. Can you tell me what the difference is in these products other than a huge price difference.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=645810
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=162692
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=209097
There are some resonably priced kits like this one as well. Not sure on how good they are.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=573247
thanks for the help, jay
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=645810
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=162692
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=209097
There are some resonably priced kits like this one as well. Not sure on how good they are.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=573247
thanks for the help, jay
snuffy
Member
quality and name
The difference in the 3 20 pound capacity pots is the color of the paint and the quality. That said, I have yet to "wear out" a lee pot. I have a production pot that's over 20 years old, still going strong. My current is the first on your list, when casting with an 6 cavity 45 mold, it don't take long to empty one of the small ones.
The lyman kit is like the 8 pound melter in my pic. The difference is the 4500 sizer. It pushes a bullet into a tapered die, and squeezes the lube into the lube groves,( through holes in the side of the die), then it ejects it back out the way it came in. Each caliber and size has to have it's own die, plus the correct top punch to exactly fit the nose of the bullet. This prevents damage to the nose.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=733109
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=536649
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=653882
The top two will be needed for every bullet you have a mold for. The lyman molds will list which top punch to get. If you buy a lee mold, it's a crap shoot to get the correct top punch, sometimes lyman doesn't make one that exactly fits another manufactres bullet nose. The stick lube goes a long way, one stick will lube several thousand bullets,(unless the lube grooves are very deep and you fill all the grooves).
The lee system comes with the punch, sizer die, and a bottle of the liquid alox. Again the liquid alox goes a long way, lubing an awfull lot of bullets from one bottle.
The difference in the 3 20 pound capacity pots is the color of the paint and the quality. That said, I have yet to "wear out" a lee pot. I have a production pot that's over 20 years old, still going strong. My current is the first on your list, when casting with an 6 cavity 45 mold, it don't take long to empty one of the small ones.
The lyman kit is like the 8 pound melter in my pic. The difference is the 4500 sizer. It pushes a bullet into a tapered die, and squeezes the lube into the lube groves,( through holes in the side of the die), then it ejects it back out the way it came in. Each caliber and size has to have it's own die, plus the correct top punch to exactly fit the nose of the bullet. This prevents damage to the nose.
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=733109
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=536649
http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=653882
The top two will be needed for every bullet you have a mold for. The lyman molds will list which top punch to get. If you buy a lee mold, it's a crap shoot to get the correct top punch, sometimes lyman doesn't make one that exactly fits another manufactres bullet nose. The stick lube goes a long way, one stick will lube several thousand bullets,(unless the lube grooves are very deep and you fill all the grooves).
The lee system comes with the punch, sizer die, and a bottle of the liquid alox. Again the liquid alox goes a long way, lubing an awfull lot of bullets from one bottle.
- Status
