molycoating

[PITBULL]

what do ya'll think of molycoating the bore action receiver and bolt?
and what will it do?

 

[3 gun]

Yes. No. No. No. The only place you should use molly is the bore. Even then you need to be sure to keep it out of the chamber. There is a sealing effect between the chamber wall and the case when fired. Molly coating here would not be a good thing since it could allow the case to start moving before pressure starts to drop. Even in a bolt action it could allow a higher pressure spike then the locking lugs were meant to take. I have had good results with a molly coated bore, using molly coated ammo. It makes my first shot from a cold bore the same from day to day. I also notice tighter groups thru longer shot strings.

 

[PITBULL]

thanks i wont do it.

 

[coyote204]

I agree, moly coat the bore, then stop.

 

[PITBULL]

how would i do that? and where and how much is molycoat?

 

[coyote204]

You can get Hoppe's #9 Moly Coating paste at Midway USA. Use this link:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=294502

One jar will last you a long time. To moly coat your barrel, you need a good cleaning rod (I prefer Dewey 1-piece nylon coated rods) and lots of patches for your caliber. You need to take extra special care not to get any of the moly on the bolt, chamber, reciever internals, or the action. A chamber plug would be a good investment. If you can't afford a chamber plug, just be extra cautious.
Apply a thick coating of the moly paste to the bore with a saturated patch twice running the patch through the barrel 4-5 times.

Clean any excess moly paste off of the muzzle and chamber immediately.

Run a clean patch through the barrel three times.

Then another clean patch through the barrel 30-40 times and again with a clean patch 30-40 times to burnish the moly.

Your bore should now be uniformly moly coated and will be black and shiny.

Did I mention to make sure your bore is clean first? Make sure to run several dry patches through the bore first to remove any oil. After you moly coat, throw all of your bore brushes away. Don't use them on moly coated barrels!

 

[PITBULL]

You can get Hoppe's #9 Moly Coating paste at Midway USA. Use this link:

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=294502

One jar will last you a long time. To moly coat your barrel, you need a good cleaning rod (I prefer Dewey 1-piece nylon coated rods) and lots of patches for your caliber. You need to take extra special care not to get any of the moly on the bolt, chamber, reciever internals, or the action. A chamber plug would be a good investment. If you can't afford a chamber plug, just be extra cautious.
Apply a thick coating of the moly paste to the bore with a saturated patch twice running the patch through the barrel 4-5 times.

Clean any excess moly paste off of the muzzle and chamber immediately.

Run a clean patch through the barrel three times.

Then another clean patch through the barrel 30-40 times and again with a clean patch 30-40 times to burnish the moly.

Your bore should now be uniformly moly coated and will be black and shiny.

Did I mention to make sure your bore is clean first? Make sure to run several dry patches through the bore first to remove any oil. After you moly coat, throw all of your bore brushes away. Don't use them on moly coated barrels!

why throw all of my bore brushes away how will i clean the bore

 

[PITBULL]

and what will the molycoat do for my gun

 

[coyote204]

You can clean the bore with patches and solvents. You don't need brushes. Moly coating improves accuracy and keeps your bore cleaner. You can shoot more and clean less.

 

[3 gun]

If you use molly on molly you won't have much to clean up. A brush is mostly for copper fouling and you should have none of that with a proper molly on molly set up. Just be sure to test a molly covered something with the bore cleaner you plan to use. Hoppes will strip molly from a bore like a hot knife thru butter. I found RemClean does a nice job with powder fouling. When you coat the bore you can use a fire formed case to help reduce the chance that molly gets in the chamber. I did my bore and switched to molly match ammo shortly after buying my scout. Groups shrank and I haven't had a shift in impact or an increase in group size in almost 2 yrs and 400+ rds. It's a sub MOA rifle all day. The only cleaning I've done is a patch wet with RC followed by dry, repeat to clean. Takes about 5 minutes.

 

[PITBULL]

thanks im thinking about it

 

[PITBULL]

how much and where can i get a chamber plug?

 

[rangerruck]

first i broke it in like you do any rifle that you want to be a good shooter, shoot once clena and lube once . do this for ten rounds. then shoot five times, clean and lube once, do this for 50 rounds. that is a good break in. then you severely clean everything apply the molycoat to the bore, action receiver, bolt assy. but not the bolt/chamber face, you need that good friction lockup. then i wen tback outto the range and fired a couple hundred more rounds and repeated the above process. the most important thing to remember is patience! keep the bbl AND action WARM! keep it in your water heater room , in a hot garage, in the oven at about 90 degrees to 120 degrees. rotate the bbl/action 1 quarter turn each day , so you should treat it for at least four days in a row you want to put black tape or wax or some kind of cap over the muzzle end and the bore chmber end like a piece of cotton. do so . you watn the inside of the bbl to remain sloppy wet with the moly.
as far as the ammo choice goes, i tested literally 10,000 rounds before i found out for sure which it liked the best , i wetn to gunshops and show and bought every foreign roudn made, and then the same places for every domestic roudn available. as you can see on my targets, i labeled the rounds i fired, i actually have much more pics of more rounds, but those were some of just the better ones. however al that being said, i found that the eley arange box and yellow box , were two of the best box after box. there are other great eley rounds but i picked these because these are very good and also the cheapest for eley. then ALL THE AGUILAS, in all their shpaes and speeds were all very good, they are eleys as well but put together in mexico, yes even though it is mexico, they are very good and consistent with no missfires. Aguila also makes an american round called golden eagle, they are in two box colors; black and light brown, and navy blue and black, they are also very good.
the scope is either a Tasco varmint or a Barska, the Barskda is a clone of the Tasco with rougher edges. they are both 6x24x42 both under 100 bucks. i have four of them one is on a Parker hale 308 ultralite, post ww2. it doesnt move neither the scope or the zero. they can take the recoil.
type in shooter's solutions at a search engine, ro go to rimfirecentral. look in their ad blocks.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a284/pmullineaux/mod60013.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a284/pmullineaux/mod60010.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a284/pmullineaux/mod60006.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a284/pmullineaux/mod60005.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a284/pmullineaux/mod60004.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a284/pmullineaux/mod60003.jpg
these are all 100 yd groups

 

[coyote204]

Pitbull, you can get everything that you need including a chamber plug at www.midwayusa.com. Chamber plugs are cheap.

 

[PITBULL]

thanks. im thinking about molycoating a marlin 60 22lr