Mosin Nagant #44
- Thread starter hdbiker
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Tolkachi Robotnik
Member
They usually shoot high.
You might try painting something on top of the front blade. That would be the same as pulling down on it farther.
In battle they were usually set up to shoot at mid-point or belt line. Some will go a foot high at 100 arshins.
You might try painting something on top of the front blade. That would be the same as pulling down on it farther.
In battle they were usually set up to shoot at mid-point or belt line. Some will go a foot high at 100 arshins.
Jackal
Member
Flip the rear sight over and file the ramp down until it zeros. Invisible mod.
firesky101
Member
iirc the mosin's are sighted in for 300m. There is a member here who makes quite a few custom sight options for mosins. Perhaps another member that swings by will remember his username.
carbine85
Member
I did this. I removed the rear sight slide and removed material. I also removed some material from the receiver that the sight slides on, reblued it and you can't tell anything. It also slides easily now. I also drifte the front sight post and sighted it in with the bayonet removed.
BCRider
Member
The 44 is in the same boat as the full length 91/30 in that most of us elect to install taller front sight pins. Some make it longer with a short length of heat shrink tubing shrunk on so it forms out to be about 1/16 inch longer.
I've also filed down and re-blued the contact point of the rear blade slider so it sits a little lower. It's nearly invisible and aids in having to make the new front pin that much taller than it needs to be. With the rear slider/sight filed down in that way it made it so the front sight pin only needed to be about 1/32 inch taller instead of 1/16. And that way it's not sitting up near the top of the hood when you look thru.
I've also filed down and re-blued the contact point of the rear blade slider so it sits a little lower. It's nearly invisible and aids in having to make the new front pin that much taller than it needs to be. With the rear slider/sight filed down in that way it made it so the front sight pin only needed to be about 1/32 inch taller instead of 1/16. And that way it's not sitting up near the top of the hood when you look thru.
I believe THIS is what you're looking for...
Very simple installation: Drift out entire front sight globe, then with a small punch, drift out front sight post from the top through the hole in the top of the globe. Slide in new taller post from the bottom and file flush at bottom if necessary. Then drift globe assembly back into place.
THIS video shows the installation.
After it's installed, the post will be very long and your Mosin will shoot very low. Keep filing the sight post down in small increments until you are on target.
Murphy4570
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- Oct 14, 2010
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- 433
Tolkachi Robotnik said:
The Soviets didn't use the antiquated measurement system of old Imperial Russia. Measuring distance in archins was part of that. They switched entirely to the metric system. Certainly by 1944 when the OP's M44 was introduced they were stamping their rear sights in meters.
Joshua M. Smith
Member
Hello,
HDBiker, mount the bayonet. Taking the bayonet off will make the rifle shoot high and sometimes right. Russian (and later, Soviet) doctrine had the bayonet attached at all times except for storage or troop transport in a motor vehicle. Especially during its inception, the rifle was still largely viewed in Europe as a vehicle for the bayonet. Russia was no exception, and this is why, when you look at that time period, you see looong rifles and looong bayonets.
Removing the bayonet simply changed your barrel's harmonics and therefore, its point-of-impact.
I have some articles at my website, http://smith-sights.com , if you wish to stop by. I charge nothing for reading them, of course, and they're the accumulation of my research and experimentation thus far.
Regards,
Josh
HDBiker, mount the bayonet. Taking the bayonet off will make the rifle shoot high and sometimes right. Russian (and later, Soviet) doctrine had the bayonet attached at all times except for storage or troop transport in a motor vehicle. Especially during its inception, the rifle was still largely viewed in Europe as a vehicle for the bayonet. Russia was no exception, and this is why, when you look at that time period, you see looong rifles and looong bayonets.
Removing the bayonet simply changed your barrel's harmonics and therefore, its point-of-impact.
I have some articles at my website, http://smith-sights.com , if you wish to stop by. I charge nothing for reading them, of course, and they're the accumulation of my research and experimentation thus far.
Regards,
Josh
Cosmoline
Member
It's much easier to get a high front sight post or mojos. And you can do either with no permanent mods. For example I bought one of these Polish M44's for $150 a few decades ago. Now look at what the price is doing:
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=357367574
Claymore1500
Member
Is that for real? I bought an unissued Russian about 15 years ago and paid a whopping $125.00,
For what it's worth, mine came outa' the box, right on at 100 yds.
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This would look convincing if the rifle could be re-zeroed after the bayonet removal. Many Mosins - in my experience - shoot way high at the lowest range setting. There is no room left for adjustment. And if you think the Russian Imperial and then Red Army was content to have the rifles hopelessly off target in the absence of the bayonet, you are facing a court martial. Who will want to hook up a bayonet just to shoot accurately, except for a re-enactor? By the way my M44 shot 4" high out of the crate with the bayonet on (it was remedied by a rear sight job)
Cosmoline
Member
I agree the bayonet thing gets overstated. The Soviets rarely bothered to sight in their rifles with much precision. And I believe they were using a 300 meter zero with a "belly button" aiming method. A rifle that shot high at 100 will still hit him in the chest. They still do something along these lines for AK-74's. So the best bet is to just start from scratch and use a high sight post replacement or a mojo to get whatever zero you want.
Crazy, isn't it? So far the buying spree seems to be focused on rare and semi-rare types, but these are going for many times their usual price. Blond Polish M44's were as cheap as the run of the mill Soviet ones not too long ago. I lost another bidding war on an M38 from the rare year of 1945. I'm in one right now over an Albanian Mosin. So you never know. But one thing is for sure--once you file down that rear sight the value is next to nada.
Crazy, isn't it? So far the buying spree seems to be focused on rare and semi-rare types, but these are going for many times their usual price. Blond Polish M44's were as cheap as the run of the mill Soviet ones not too long ago. I lost another bidding war on an M38 from the rare year of 1945. I'm in one right now over an Albanian Mosin. So you never know. But one thing is for sure--once you file down that rear sight the value is next to nada.
That is not true. Most Mosins are not exactly collectibles. I sold my M44 with a filed-off slider exactly what I bought it for. The buyer understood that the carbine was now dead-on, and we both knew a replacement rear sight is $10 if need be.
ThePenguinKnight
Member
- Joined
- May 30, 2007
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- 226
If someone wanted to adjust the rear sight so he would not have to make as drastic an adjustment to the front, would it be better to file the rear sight blade itself (along with a deeper notch), or to file the underside of the slider adjustment piece, or to file on the rear sight base rails?
My first thought is that the sight blade and notch is probably best, as replacement parts are the easiest to get and install if you ever wanted to.
I use the heat-shrink trick to help with my m91-30 shooting high, but there is very little room left between the top of the "post" and the underside of the globe, so I would like to lower the rear a bit to make up someof the difference.
My friend picked up an m44 years ago on the cheap, and I don't think he ever tried to adjust the sights-- probably because it's tough to keep the shot patterm inside a basketball at 50yds, so adjustment doesn't make much sense. I haven't met another gun, mosin or otherwise, which shot so poorly as that rifle; makes me appreciate my guns quite a bit more
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My first thought is that the sight blade and notch is probably best, as replacement parts are the easiest to get and install if you ever wanted to.
I use the heat-shrink trick to help with my m91-30 shooting high, but there is very little room left between the top of the "post" and the underside of the globe, so I would like to lower the rear a bit to make up someof the difference.
My friend picked up an m44 years ago on the cheap, and I don't think he ever tried to adjust the sights-- probably because it's tough to keep the shot patterm inside a basketball at 50yds, so adjustment doesn't make much sense. I haven't met another gun, mosin or otherwise, which shot so poorly as that rifle; makes me appreciate my guns quite a bit more
.The underside of the slider. A little tedious if you want to be precise and keep the graduated ladder true. But even a slight overdo is not detrimental, you will have plenty of upward adjustment. When you are done, you'll do better than a basketball. At 50 yards you will do a soda can. All left to worry about will be your shoulder joint.
Cosmoline
Member
True, and almost none of them used to be. But can you truly sort out the valuable from the common? I know the models very well and even I've been surprised by some of the prices people are willing to pay now. Besides, why file when you can stick a higher post in the front or pop on a Mojo? With some models, like the M91, filing the rear sight just cause the notch to vanish anyway. The key has always been a higher front sight. That's what the Finns did with their captures.
Bud u realize we not talking filing off the notch right? It's the sliding piece like a ring around the graduated ladder. It has enough material. And you shave off so little it is barely noticeable.
I am not against anything u do with the front sight. Skin the cat ur way.
I am not against anything u do with the front sight. Skin the cat ur way.
I have 2 modified front sights from Joshua M. Smith. I can say that they are very nicely done and I feel that they are worth what he asks for them. If I ever come across the need for another Mosin front sight, I'll check with him first. He seems to be working on new projects all the time, too, and posts them here for feedback.
carbine85
Member
The one problem with raising the front sight post is it restricts your sight picture given that the front sight isn't an open sight like most USGI guns are.
I have a Smith Sight on one of mine. It works great but I still had to lower the rear sight so that I could leave the front sight more open.
I have a Smith Sight on one of mine. It works great but I still had to lower the rear sight so that I could leave the front sight more open.
Cosmoline
Member
There's always the Finnish fix of a blade sight stuck in the front dovetail. Or Mojos.
geo57
Member
I have used a rigid plastic straw that's just a hair more diameter than the front sight post, red nail polished the top 1/8 inch and another very small dab on the bottom to cement things down, and trimmed it to the desired POI. It works like a charm, is solid, hits are consistent and stay's put if done right. A large doe fell to my 91/30 from 150 yards + this past January during our anterless season with this exact high tech front sight system, as did a buck a couple years back and it's seen numerous plinking sessions. I have never had to re-do it or adjust it in any way since installing it several years ago.
Also, this idea that Mosins , especially the M44, has to have the bayonet extended or on the rifle at all to shoot consistent groups to point of aim is hogwash. I removed the bayonet on my M44 before I sighted it in and it shoots and prints well. I have taken three whitetails with it.
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Also, this idea that Mosins , especially the M44, has to have the bayonet extended or on the rifle at all to shoot consistent groups to point of aim is hogwash. I removed the bayonet on my M44 before I sighted it in and it shoots and prints well. I have taken three whitetails with it.
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elwoodm
Member
sounds to me like too much trouble i got m44 m38 and 4 91/30s just get some 12 gauge copper wire the insulation fits right on the front post. push it up to where you want it and your done.
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