Mosin Nagant Sporterizing Help

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If you really want to have fun, you turn down (or grind...) the and thread the muzzle and install a muzzle brake, you can even use a cheap surplus one from a AK or FAL or CETME/G1 or G3... Or M1 Or M14 or any others really.
 
Loon,
Buddy's rebuilding the '19 Dodge rod he's had in parts for 30 years. Told him I get to drive it first if it ever gets together again. :)

Shad,
I dunno if the project would justify a brake. If I were doing it just for fun, possibly.
The thought is more of an inexpensive kickaround hunting rifle. If I were really gonna go to town I'd get the metalwork re-done, stick one of the laminated Boyds on it, and a more expensive piece of glass.

If the gun can be turned into a decent 150-yard hunter that doesn't have to be pretty, that's about all I need out of it.

What I'd actually prefer above all is just getting a NICE sample & leaving it in military trim.
I've had two from Century, first was a "hand selected" that had a cracked stock, replacement was so pitted I flat gave it to a C&R friend for parts. No more Mosins from Century. :)

Maybe one of these days I'll find a good one in the $100 range.
Denis
 
I'm doing the same thing, sporterizing a Mosin. I received a Boyd's stock for Christmas, and am awaiting JMek's next run of steel see through scope mounts for a regular (ie not long eye relief) scope. I think it should only be another couple of weeks. They're nice because they don't require any drilling, and leave the existing sights untouched. I was also looking into Timney triggers, and although expensive, having a 2.5 to 4 lb pull (would probably opt for about 3 - 3.5) would really be nice. Also, when ready, contacting the Boltman for a bent bolt.

Have one question right now, how loose or tight should the receiver fit into the stock ? It's a little tight just forward of the rear upper screw. I took it down a little, but don't know if being tight there will hurt anything. Perhaps crack when the gun heats up? Thanks all for any insight.

Almostgem
John
 
it shouldnt crack, but youll likely get uneven bedding pressure. If your up to it id suggest taking more material out and glass bedding your action to the stock.
 
I've got the ATI & the Boyds stocks here, in a week or so I'll ship the bolt off for the Rock Solid treatment.
Debating whether or not to go with bedding in the wood one.
Denis
 
Its the best way to insure good even contact. The work is easy, and the cost is pretty minimal (i use marine tex, which cost about 15 bucks here for the little box). Only real warning i can give when doing bedding is not to torque down the action bolts real hard, and support the barrel at the front of the forend. There are a number of good guides around.
 
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I would go with a boyds stock, turned down bolt handle, timney trigger and jmeck scope mount. First I would group the gun to see if it is worth it. I have tried the ati scope mount twice and something went wrong both times. I made my own bolt handle but it was tedious and had to be careful of heat transfer etc.
 
Well i am working on making my 91/30 a range gun for long range shooting. And i am taking the swivels off the bottom and adjusting the stock so it fits better and a number of other things.
 
i have the ati stock on my 220 swift, at first i didn't like it but it kinda grew on me.
barrel is right at 25". i kep saying i'm going to replace the stock with something nicer but i haven't got around to it.
220swiftmosin4.jpg
 
Out of curiosity why the swift?, and how much work is it to change to bolt to work with the smaller rim diameter?
I actually like that look.
 
Out of curiosity why the swift?, and how much work is it to change to bolt to work with the smaller rim diameter?
the swift is one of the all time classic varmint cartridges, it fits the magazine fairly well & i just happened to have the reamer and a remington 722 takeoff barrel in .222.
mosin threads will just clean up a remington barrel shank.
the bolt was easy to modify.
i made a bushing to reduce the bolt face down then soldered it in. i then deepened the extractor and ejector slots with a cuttoff wheel on a dremel. shimmed the extractor back .010. the cut the tail off the front of an early one piece interuptor/ejector to allow it to swing farther into the receiver to keep the cartridges in the magazine.
on the next one i'm going to recut the bolt face like the blindee 8mm comversions then have the bolt head edm'ed for an ar-15 type pinned extractor
 
Very, very neat Jim. I was considering trying to rebarrel a nagant to a x54r wildcat of some sort. If a remington barrel can be cleaned up that will make finding a barrel alot easier. All in good time tho, right now im sorta interesred in gettin my 7mm rechambered to 7-300wm.
 
I'd like to build me a nice sporter but my funds are limited so I just took the cheaper route and refinished the original stock,bedded the action and put an S & K scout mount and LEE scope. For less than $200 including the rifle it turned out pretty decent and shoots well.

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Might end up buying another Mosin & dropping it into the ATI without modifying anything, along with the customized version in wood.
I think you've persuaded me to go for the bedding.

If I do the bare-bones second one I'd have two different levels of "recycling" the old Nagants.

Anybody just done the very basic ATI swap-out & left it at that? Shoot decent?
Denis
 
Thanks all,
I'll take a little more out so that it fit's not quite so snugly, then once I get the trigger, I'll send it in to my gunsmith for the heavy duty wood removal to fit the trigger and at the same time have the barrel bedded. Is it better to glass bed or pillar bed ? Are they mutually exclusive ?

Thanks again,
By the by, the rifle is tight headspace wise, the crown end pristine, and the bullet test passes with flying colors. It shoots well with the original stock, but I tend to pull a little because of the trigger.
 
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