Franco2shoot
Member
Now that's a good thought and something to mull over.. Thanks.
KKKKFL
KKKKFL
Mosin-Nagant user thread
- Thread starter Franco2shoot
- Start date
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Fu-man Shoe
Member
- Joined
- Sep 2, 2005
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- 199
here's an idea for some of you mosin fans...it's a little something I'm working on. I haven't come up with a prototype yet, but I thought I'd solicit some feedback anyway.. 
I would like to make a buttstock mounted ammo pouch, siimilar to the ones you sometimes see on M1 carbines, to go on an M44 or M38. I think that would be pretty handy. It would only have to be big enough to hold two stripper clips worth of ammo, but I don't see the harm in making it bigger, if one wanted to.
what would be really outstanding would be to come up with a clever way to mount that fake leather ruskie pouch that they all come with to the right side of the buttstock!
Any ideas?
I would like to make a buttstock mounted ammo pouch, siimilar to the ones you sometimes see on M1 carbines, to go on an M44 or M38. I think that would be pretty handy. It would only have to be big enough to hold two stripper clips worth of ammo, but I don't see the harm in making it bigger, if one wanted to.
what would be really outstanding would be to come up with a clever way to mount that fake leather ruskie pouch that they all come with to the right side of the buttstock!
Any ideas?
fireflyfather
Member
- Joined
- Oct 22, 2006
- Messages
- 807
With a little sewing, should be no problem. Hell, a flap of canvas, and a little velcro would do it. Now you've got me thinking...though it'd probably be overkill for my 91/30.
Franco2shoot
Member
If you hand stuff those Ruskie Synthetic Double pouches Each will hold more than 20 rounds. I don't like the cumbersome nature of hooking them to the sling, but do carry them in a jacket pocket.
KKKKFL
KKKKFL
Franco2shoot
Member
Is the thread on the end of a MN cleaning rod 4-40?
KKKKFL
KKKKFL
Franco2shoot
Member
Thanks,
I need an 8-32 tap for a 6" aluminum tube then.
KKKKFL
I need an 8-32 tap for a 6" aluminum tube then.
KKKKFL
dispatch55126
Member
Low wall vs. high wall
Why did they switch to the high wall design during the war? Was it to reduce machining and production time? If that was the case, why have a low wall to begin with?
Why did they switch to the high wall design during the war? Was it to reduce machining and production time? If that was the case, why have a low wall to begin with?
Franco2shoot
Member
NO MORE Sticky Bolt
I don't have the low wall versus High answer, but I did get to the range today and confirm my suspicions about sticky bolts.
From black powder days, it was well known that hot gases mixing with Petro based oils makes for a very sticky solution. I had a funny feeling that the bolt on my M44, and 91/30 were sticking, not so much due to spacing or ammo, but the oil/hot residue mix. To overcome the problem in black powder fire arms, a mix of non-petro based lubricants is used. Usually, it consists of Burt's bees wax,(the carrier) some Olive Oil and a little Bore butter. This concoction is mixed over a heat source, liquified and allowed to cool.
I had some left over and took it to the range along with all the Ammo that usually caused the bolt to stick... Steel cased, copper washed, and Hunkie heavy ball seem to be the prime examples. The M44 usually becomes a little sticky after only 5 rounds, while the 91/30 takes a few more. Today, I started by taking an oversized patch and wiping out the chamber. Then with a very small dab on a finger I wiped the cases of the first 5. They went through the M44 like butter, ejecting so smoothly I could keep the butt on my sholder. I continued firing another 30 rounds, and the bolt never hesitated in the least. I had the same results with the 91/30. I'm guessing that the non-petro oils pretty much stayed on the chamber walls once introduced.
I would sure like some independent confirmation, but I'm convinced!
KKKKFL
I don't have the low wall versus High answer, but I did get to the range today and confirm my suspicions about sticky bolts.
From black powder days, it was well known that hot gases mixing with Petro based oils makes for a very sticky solution. I had a funny feeling that the bolt on my M44, and 91/30 were sticking, not so much due to spacing or ammo, but the oil/hot residue mix. To overcome the problem in black powder fire arms, a mix of non-petro based lubricants is used. Usually, it consists of Burt's bees wax,(the carrier) some Olive Oil and a little Bore butter. This concoction is mixed over a heat source, liquified and allowed to cool.
I had some left over and took it to the range along with all the Ammo that usually caused the bolt to stick... Steel cased, copper washed, and Hunkie heavy ball seem to be the prime examples. The M44 usually becomes a little sticky after only 5 rounds, while the 91/30 takes a few more. Today, I started by taking an oversized patch and wiping out the chamber. Then with a very small dab on a finger I wiped the cases of the first 5. They went through the M44 like butter, ejecting so smoothly I could keep the butt on my sholder. I continued firing another 30 rounds, and the bolt never hesitated in the least. I had the same results with the 91/30. I'm guessing that the non-petro oils pretty much stayed on the chamber walls once introduced.
I would sure like some independent confirmation, but I'm convinced!
KKKKFL
Claymore1500
Member
http://links.pictures.aol.com/pic/f050aNFhIgNqNdgiblajWlYYNGQ02d3t0ZAdv4xQp5Fd3Ig=_l.jpg
I don't know if this is working yet, but here goes.
I know that they're not all "Nags" but I thought I would put my kids on here for your enjoyment, Hope you like them.
I don't know if this is working yet, but here goes.
I know that they're not all "Nags" but I thought I would put my kids on here for your enjoyment, Hope you like them.
Nameless_Hobo
Member
- Joined
- Jan 18, 2007
- Messages
- 191
I own two Mosins.
I just got a M44 that looks like it just rolled off the production line.
$50 for it.
I just got a M44 that looks like it just rolled off the production line.
$50 for it.
SimpleIsGood229
Member
What's the year of production?
I have a very nice-looking '46 Izhevsk M44, which I really, really like.
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Franco2shoot
Member
I've had some feedback that indicates a bit of anxiety over "Lubing Cases" so I want to stress that very small amounts of the mixture was transfered. I just got the mixture on my hands and then handled the cases. I didn't really apply a coat of solution to each cartridge. It was more like putting a lip balm on your fingers that ultimately wound up in some small amount on each round. I had at least 60 rounds loose in a bag and would pull them out and stuff 5 at a time in the M44 trying to get it to lock or stiffen, with no luck. The bag had Hungarian Heavy ball copper washed, Russian brass, some oddball corrosive 4 dollar a pack as well as shellac'ed steel case.
There was a side benefit that I just realized. I was shooting really tight groups, in part because my forefinger was a little slippery, it forced me to use the plump part of my trigger finger and pull gently straight back. Hmmm... could be a good competition tip.
KKKKFL
There was a side benefit that I just realized. I was shooting really tight groups, in part because my forefinger was a little slippery, it forced me to use the plump part of my trigger finger and pull gently straight back. Hmmm... could be a good competition tip.
KKKKFL
RenardSubtil
Member
Hopefully this thread includes Finns because I just got a "sneak" version with a hex receiver and a 1968 barrel stamp
Franco2shoot
Member
A Mosin is a Mosin in my book, despite the country of origin.
KKKKFL
KKKKFL
Old Time Hunter
Member
I've got a couple:
dispatch55126
Member
New purchase and I have no idea what it is
This was sitting all lonely in a corner rack. Its Chinese and thats about all I can say for sure.
This is the overall rifle. As you can see, it's a low wall.
This is where the US stamp is. The first line reads "N.A. Co." and the second line reads "Ridgefield, N.J." Its old, worn and matches the overall condition of the receiver.
Here is the Chinese stamp. The first line is in Chinese. The second line says "1955". The third line says "26" and the fourth line is the serial number.
The sight.
The front sight. It appears to be soldered as one piece and the blue matches the barrel. The barrel is thicker than my 91/30 and has rings around the barrel similar to a vinyl record though the last 4" is smooth. The crown matches the overall condition of the barrel so it doesn't look like a bubba. The bore is also worn and looks like it has seen years of corrosive use.
Finally, the front of the stock. It was cut down, smoothed, the cleaning rod hole was filled.
This was sitting all lonely in a corner rack. Its Chinese and thats about all I can say for sure.
This is the overall rifle. As you can see, it's a low wall.
This is where the US stamp is. The first line reads "N.A. Co." and the second line reads "Ridgefield, N.J." Its old, worn and matches the overall condition of the receiver.
Here is the Chinese stamp. The first line is in Chinese. The second line says "1955". The third line says "26" and the fourth line is the serial number.
The sight.
The front sight. It appears to be soldered as one piece and the blue matches the barrel. The barrel is thicker than my 91/30 and has rings around the barrel similar to a vinyl record though the last 4" is smooth. The crown matches the overall condition of the barrel so it doesn't look like a bubba. The bore is also worn and looks like it has seen years of corrosive use.
Finally, the front of the stock. It was cut down, smoothed, the cleaning rod hole was filled.
dispatch55126
Member
I think I may have my answer. I think it might be a sportorized T53. I really thought I had something.
Franco2shoot
Member
While carbine's are fun, and I can keep the holes on the paper @ 100yards, I must say the 91/30 I have that keeps em inside the 10 ring is my overall favorite. Can anyone claim 1moa for a M44?
KKKKFL
KKKKFL
Franco2shoot
Member
BTW My 1944 m44 is counterbored
KKKKFL
KKKKFL
91/30
Great thread I must say that really helped me in purchasing a 91/30 last weekend. I have a couple of questions though.
First, having little experience with bolt guns it seems odd to me that the bolt does not really lock down when closed. Is this normal for a mosin?
Also, mine has brass looking metal at the ends of the upper handguard and most that I have seen are black. Are mine stripped or different metal altogether?
Great thread I must say that really helped me in purchasing a 91/30 last weekend. I have a couple of questions though.
First, having little experience with bolt guns it seems odd to me that the bolt does not really lock down when closed. Is this normal for a mosin?
Also, mine has brass looking metal at the ends of the upper handguard and most that I have seen are black. Are mine stripped or different metal altogether?
Franco2shoot
Member
Locking?
I'm a little concerned when you say the bolt doesn't lock. Mine snaps into the final position and its obvious that it is locked. I highly recommend Azoom snap caps in 7.65x54r. It sounds like you still have some cosmoline in the chamber. Look down with the bolt removed at the back of the chamber you should see the semi circular cut where the bolt extractor fits. Make certain this is clean using a Q-tip dipped in Gasoline. Might be a good idea to fully clean with a 20 gauge shotgun cleaning brush.
The dog collar slots in the front and on the butt are brass, but most have a black residue that you can clean off.
I'm a little concerned when you say the bolt doesn't lock. Mine snaps into the final position and its obvious that it is locked. I highly recommend Azoom snap caps in 7.65x54r. It sounds like you still have some cosmoline in the chamber. Look down with the bolt removed at the back of the chamber you should see the semi circular cut where the bolt extractor fits. Make certain this is clean using a Q-tip dipped in Gasoline. Might be a good idea to fully clean with a 20 gauge shotgun cleaning brush.
The dog collar slots in the front and on the butt are brass, but most have a black residue that you can clean off.
You my friend got keeper there.
My M44 won't do 1MOA but I can get 5 rds into 2 to 3 inch groups at 100 yards when I use Hungarian heavy ball and really pay attention to what I am doing. The 91/30 I had was about the same. My 440 dollar M1 won't do that (Avoid Century Arms International at all cost). I think the shorter sight radius on the M44 does make it a little harder to shoot though.
Unfortunatly I recently had to let the 91/30 go so I wouldn't have to drag her big arse around when I move but she will be replaced. I think I will go for an older hex reciever with laminated stock on the next one.
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