Thanks for the response franco. This is my first mosin and I will have this problem adressed before I shoot it. I have thouroughly cleaned the chamber and the cut for the extractor but the bolt still kind of sits in the down position. It is definately not locking closed. Any advice on where I should go from here?
Mosin-Nagant user thread
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Franco2shoot
Member
Nr 2 pic
If you take a close look at the second pic in thread #393 you can see how the bolt should look. Two recommendations I can make are to go to the following Web site:http://7.62x54r.net/MosinID/MosinDisassembly.htm
and make certain the bolt looks like the pieces in the picture. It sounds like the extactor is bumping in the cylinder precluding full lock, but that's a total guess. You may need a Gunsmith to Unscrew and re-seat the barrel. If this was a Mail-order I would send it back and get another.
KKKKFL
If you take a close look at the second pic in thread #393 you can see how the bolt should look. Two recommendations I can make are to go to the following Web site:http://7.62x54r.net/MosinID/MosinDisassembly.htm
and make certain the bolt looks like the pieces in the picture. It sounds like the extactor is bumping in the cylinder precluding full lock, but that's a total guess. You may need a Gunsmith to Unscrew and re-seat the barrel. If this was a Mail-order I would send it back and get another.
KKKKFL
Let me make sure I am clear with you guys. The bolt goes all the way closed but it does not "snap" "click" or "lock" into place. It will move up again with the slightest of pressure.
On a side note, is it okay to dry fire my mosin?
On a side note, is it okay to dry fire my mosin?
Franco2shoot
Member
description
I will describe precisely..
Push snap cap down... feel it click below the side looking down you can see the case touching a tab on right and left sides, but it should be loose enough to wiggle from side to side
The bolt is in a vertical positionand will wiggle from side to side
As you slide the bolt forward looking down you can see the snap capper tilt up as it enters the chamber the bolt has just passed or is even with the side wall on the right side.
Continuing forward as the cap enters it may get slightly stiff to push forward.
Looking down the locking lug is just starting to enter the front.
A further push and the snap capper is fully in the bolt is still vertical.. Looking down you should see that the back part of metal just behind the bolt is NOT touching the right side of the wall and there is a little more than a sixteenth space. Now lets start bolt rotation...
There is a click as the material touches the wall best seen looking straight down with the rifle in your lap. You should note that at the front the bolt material that has the serial number stamped on it is away from the round and black barrel material... again about a sixteenth gap The bolt has rotated about 5 degrees at this point. All of a sudden, it should rotate fully the last 90 degrees til the right side of the shiney bolt touches the side wall of the magazine. You can pull up / push down between 1 0'clock and 3 o'Clock position easily. Pulling slowly up you should feel 3 distinct spots or locations. Pushing down you only feel 2...
Now as to dry firing... I only do it with the Azoom snap capper so the firing pin has something to slam into, but that's just me.
http://www.lymanproducts.com/store/page53.html
KKKKFL
I will describe precisely..
Push snap cap down... feel it click below the side looking down you can see the case touching a tab on right and left sides, but it should be loose enough to wiggle from side to side
The bolt is in a vertical positionand will wiggle from side to side
As you slide the bolt forward looking down you can see the snap capper tilt up as it enters the chamber the bolt has just passed or is even with the side wall on the right side.
Continuing forward as the cap enters it may get slightly stiff to push forward.
Looking down the locking lug is just starting to enter the front.
A further push and the snap capper is fully in the bolt is still vertical.. Looking down you should see that the back part of metal just behind the bolt is NOT touching the right side of the wall and there is a little more than a sixteenth space. Now lets start bolt rotation...
There is a click as the material touches the wall best seen looking straight down with the rifle in your lap. You should note that at the front the bolt material that has the serial number stamped on it is away from the round and black barrel material... again about a sixteenth gap The bolt has rotated about 5 degrees at this point. All of a sudden, it should rotate fully the last 90 degrees til the right side of the shiney bolt touches the side wall of the magazine. You can pull up / push down between 1 0'clock and 3 o'Clock position easily. Pulling slowly up you should feel 3 distinct spots or locations. Pushing down you only feel 2...
Now as to dry firing... I only do it with the Azoom snap capper so the firing pin has something to slam into, but that's just me.
http://www.lymanproducts.com/store/page53.html
KKKKFL
Last edited:
Beetle Bailey
Member
I've dry fired my Mosin Nagants many times with no ill effects. I figure if it was made for illiterate conscripts, it should be able to handle dry firing. Whenever I let a newbie shoot one of my Mosins, I also have them dry fire it first so they can get used to the trigger (also so I can observe their gunhandling safety with an empty chamber).
Franco2shoot
Member
Invest in the Azoom snap caps. They are cheap and allow you to watch the loading process as well as fine tune the circular edge on the bolt. Mine had such a sharp edge it would catch and dig into the brass rim until I took some of the sharpness off with a jewelers file to the area across from the extractor. It was inspection of the snap capper that allowed me to find this burr as it showed up on the base of the cap.
KKKKFL
KKKKFL
Franco2shoot
Member
Anyone else think there ought to be a Mosin section?
KKKKFL
KKKKFL
Franco2shoot
Member
After preaching about Azoom snapper caps, I had to order some new ones, these things are great will post pictures later.
KKKKFL
KKKKFL
Shade00
Member
Ok guys, went to the gun show today, saw a couple of nice looking M44s. They wanted $115 for them. I almost picked one up, but I didn't have a lot of time to inspect and play with them. I also got my C&R license in the mail yesterday, so I am officially on the prowl for a Mosin. The local pawn shop has some 91/30s at $100 each - and of course there are any variety of Mosins on the web ranging from $70 up. My question is, should I pick out the best looking 91/30 locally, or pay one of the sites to handpick? Which site should I order from if I choose to go that route? Thanks in advance, guys. I am really looking forward to making a Mosin my first rifle!
Poor East Texan
Member
- Joined
- May 15, 2008
- Messages
- 366
Mine is a Finnish M39 that I got at a gunshow some years ago. I've only had it at a range once. And it shot pretty good on Wolf Ammo.
Where I live I can shoot 25yd .22 safely. 7.62x54R going off around here would sound like war!
Reserving this spot for a picture or two!
Where I live I can shoot 25yd .22 safely. 7.62x54R going off around here would sound like war!
Reserving this spot for a picture or two!
Franco2shoot
Member
Pick'n & grinning
Shade00,
I trust my own eyes, and really don't like the mystery of Mail order. I started the Mosin journey with a 91/30 and can highly recommend it as your starter. The 44's and all their variants are really nice carbines, but they are just that. My guess is that their optimum range is 75 yards for the day to day shooter using the iron sights. Between 100 and 200 yards, the 91/30 comes into its own.
There's several Mosin web pages that will serve you well
( http://7.62x54r.net/ ). Read them and then go through the shopping process. Best would be a Finn 91/30 but they are hard to find and not on the inexpensive side. Second would be an all matching number either Arsenal Tula or Izhevsk 1944 seems to be a pretty good year. Look for sharp rifle'ing and no pitting on the bore walls. I have yet to find one that has a shiny steel bore finish, almost all are black. Lots of J&B rouge spinning on a rod with a 1/4 inch drill will get you where you need to be. Action should not be sloppy, and I usually take a Snap capper when I go shopping and ask to feel the trigger action. I'm betting if you have two rifles side by side and compare you will be able to make a better decision than someone hand picking. Lastly, the furniture will no doubt have a mark or two. My personal preference is to find one that has been through the re-arsenal process since this indicates some Ruskie Dude with nothing else to do all day long other than check rifles did an inspection and replaced defective or worn parts.
I love my 91/30 and it is the one that makes the trip to the range most often just because it's dirt cheap to shoot, feels good after 40 rounds and is capable of keeping the holes in a 1 inch radius @ 100 yards and those 40 rounds only cost me 10 bucks. The gas to get to the range cost more!
KKKKFL
Shade00,
I trust my own eyes, and really don't like the mystery of Mail order. I started the Mosin journey with a 91/30 and can highly recommend it as your starter. The 44's and all their variants are really nice carbines, but they are just that. My guess is that their optimum range is 75 yards for the day to day shooter using the iron sights. Between 100 and 200 yards, the 91/30 comes into its own.
There's several Mosin web pages that will serve you well
( http://7.62x54r.net/ ). Read them and then go through the shopping process. Best would be a Finn 91/30 but they are hard to find and not on the inexpensive side. Second would be an all matching number either Arsenal Tula or Izhevsk 1944 seems to be a pretty good year. Look for sharp rifle'ing and no pitting on the bore walls. I have yet to find one that has a shiny steel bore finish, almost all are black. Lots of J&B rouge spinning on a rod with a 1/4 inch drill will get you where you need to be. Action should not be sloppy, and I usually take a Snap capper when I go shopping and ask to feel the trigger action. I'm betting if you have two rifles side by side and compare you will be able to make a better decision than someone hand picking. Lastly, the furniture will no doubt have a mark or two. My personal preference is to find one that has been through the re-arsenal process since this indicates some Ruskie Dude with nothing else to do all day long other than check rifles did an inspection and replaced defective or worn parts.
I love my 91/30 and it is the one that makes the trip to the range most often just because it's dirt cheap to shoot, feels good after 40 rounds and is capable of keeping the holes in a 1 inch radius @ 100 yards and those 40 rounds only cost me 10 bucks. The gas to get to the range cost more!
KKKKFL
Shade00
Member
Thanks for the great info, Franco2shoot. I'm running by there in a bit to see if there might be some Finnish rifles. If there is one, I will pick it up today - if not, it will have to wait until Friday, since I'm heading up to Tennessee with the wife to visit some family (where I can't have a loaded pistol in the car... yeesh).
You can look forward to a very excited and eager post when I do make a purchase.
You can look forward to a very excited and eager post when I do make a purchase.
Shade00
Member
I only had time to look at a couple today. Spied a 1939 Izhevsk matching #s, one was a Tula with the date gone, and the last was a 1944 something. I should've written them down, but I was running low on time. I also forgot my flashlight to check out the bore. 
When my wife and I get back at the end of the week I'll have more time to go check them out more thoroughly. The '39 Izhevsk actually looked the best out of the group; best wood, bolt action seemed pretty sharp, and the numbers matched. Anyway, I'm excited to get one of these rifles, and I can't believe I have to wait until the end of the week.
When my wife and I get back at the end of the week I'll have more time to go check them out more thoroughly. The '39 Izhevsk actually looked the best out of the group; best wood, bolt action seemed pretty sharp, and the numbers matched. Anyway, I'm excited to get one of these rifles, and I can't believe I have to wait until the end of the week.Poor East Texan
Member
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- May 15, 2008
- Messages
- 366
I'm thinking that with my eyes I'm gonna need a scope.
I could not bear to drill and tap and modify the bolt handle of my nice Finnish 39.
Therefor I think I must try to get a nice 91/30 to "screw up"
I could not bear to drill and tap and modify the bolt handle of my nice Finnish 39.
Therefor I think I must try to get a nice 91/30 to "screw up"
Shade00
Member
BorisDaBastid
Member
Quick question that I know I could research, but I've got a 30 min limit on the mwr computers and the connection is 28.8ish. Does anyone out there make replica 91/33 stocks that are made of Wood, not some wierd composite? I'm going to refinish my stock on R&R, but I'd also like to have an extra on hand in case I mess it up.
Franco2shoot
Member
Stocks&Scopes
Since a whole 91/30 can be had for 70-80 bucks at any gunshow, that's the way I would go. I haven't seen wood stocks, only synthetic aftermarket.
Now on to the Scope question. I went through several low end Bushnell's before a Dude told me to skip the Gunshop and go directly to Wally world. When I purchased my 91/30 it had already been drilled and tapped for the ATI rail (See below )
In this shot you can see the Allen screws I took out. I wanted to see what I could do with the iron Sights. (all over the paper @ 100 yards - poor eyesight)
I replaced the rail and put a 6-18x54 Bushnell from Wallyworld for only 120 bucks. Now it shoots 1 MOA @ 100 yards.
The trick was to get 3 slivers of cork cut from cork outta wifes favorite Chardonnay.
KKKKFL
Since a whole 91/30 can be had for 70-80 bucks at any gunshow, that's the way I would go. I haven't seen wood stocks, only synthetic aftermarket.
Now on to the Scope question. I went through several low end Bushnell's before a Dude told me to skip the Gunshop and go directly to Wally world. When I purchased my 91/30 it had already been drilled and tapped for the ATI rail (See below )
In this shot you can see the Allen screws I took out. I wanted to see what I could do with the iron Sights. (all over the paper @ 100 yards - poor eyesight)
I replaced the rail and put a 6-18x54 Bushnell from Wallyworld for only 120 bucks. Now it shoots 1 MOA @ 100 yards.
The trick was to get 3 slivers of cork cut from cork outta wifes favorite Chardonnay.
KKKKFL
Boyd's makes makes wood sporter stocks for Mosin Nagants. http://www.boydsgunstocks.com/BrowseEbus/Riaall.asp
Mike
Mike
Poor East Texan
Member
- Joined
- May 15, 2008
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- 366
My Camera isn't much good (too old and cranky and only 1.3M!) so here is a link to what my Finnish 39 looks like.
Main difference is mine has a modern camo strap.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:New42.jpg
Main difference is mine has a modern camo strap.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:New42.jpg
kBob
Member
ANyone know if there are barrels for the M-N in the US for 9x54R?
9x54R is a 7.62 x54R blown out and to a 9mm neck.
It was a popular big game round in russia in the past.
Might be nice to "rescue" a bubba-ed gun by turning into a 1960's Soviet Sporter.
Maybe those ancient American Rifleman magazines on sporterizing M-N rifles can be dug up....but not for use on a non bubbaed gun.
-Bob Hollingsworth
9x54R is a 7.62 x54R blown out and to a 9mm neck.
It was a popular big game round in russia in the past.
Might be nice to "rescue" a bubba-ed gun by turning into a 1960's Soviet Sporter.
Maybe those ancient American Rifleman magazines on sporterizing M-N rifles can be dug up....but not for use on a non bubbaed gun.
-Bob Hollingsworth
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Shade00
Member
Picked up my first MN today. An M91/30, 1939 Izhevsk. I inspected the bore and the action closely on all of their 91/30s and this one came up best. Has all matching numbers and the stock is in surprisingly good shape. A few dings here and there, but nothing to worry about. The metal parts are all in excellent shape. This is my first rifle, and for some reason the wife is ok with owning several handguns, but the rifle was a hard sell. I'm going to order some surplus ammo tonight. Also, I guess it's time to start looking at what I should do for a scope. I hate to drill this baby, but I bought it to be a hunting rifle, so it must have a scope.
Anyway, I'll post some pics once I locate my camera charger.
Anyway, I'll post some pics once I locate my camera charger.
sarduy
Member
Congrats..
cool man let us know
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