dispatch55126
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Thats how I got this picture.
Mosin-Nagant user thread
- Thread starter Franco2shoot
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yesit'sloaded
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I'll throw in a Finn m27. 1933 on a 1916 Tula hex receiver.
dispatch55126
Member
Does gunslick sell large bottles of their cleaner? The foaming cleaner is dissolving stuff out of the bore (and my cleaning rod) that wasn't coming out any other way. I've been using foaming cleaner/tornado brush/foaming cleaner but I would like to stopper my barrel and fill is with solution. I've done this with Hoppes but haven't this kind of results.
Deer Hunter
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Alright guys, I found a Mosin I would love to have.
http://www.simpsonltd.com/product_i...=4188&osCsid=d47fc72cab8fd497a16c69b678522ad9
http://www.simpsonltd.com/product_i...=4188&osCsid=d47fc72cab8fd497a16c69b678522ad9
Franco2shoot
Member
bolt operation
I posted this on another board, but nobody seems to know the answer, so I'll give you guys a shot.
Once fired, there are 3 distinctive clicks that one can feel as the bolt is cycled back. I'm trying to figure out what happens at each. Looking from the back with the bolt at the 90 degree point as you rotate up first you feel the cocking spring being pushed back this is the first click, then you feel the lugs unlocking (I think) this is around 50 degrees up, then there's that last hard notch to get over, and I can't figure out what this is. My guess is that this is the point where the case is pulled out of the magazine. It can be where the bolt gets really tough to operate, and I'm guessing this is because the case on firing expands against the walls of the magazine. If there was any oil or left over cosmoline its gonna stick at this point. Once past this point the bolt operation is, just pull straight back.
Now anyone know for sure if my above assumptions are correct?
KKKKFL
I posted this on another board, but nobody seems to know the answer, so I'll give you guys a shot.
Once fired, there are 3 distinctive clicks that one can feel as the bolt is cycled back. I'm trying to figure out what happens at each. Looking from the back with the bolt at the 90 degree point as you rotate up first you feel the cocking spring being pushed back this is the first click, then you feel the lugs unlocking (I think) this is around 50 degrees up, then there's that last hard notch to get over, and I can't figure out what this is. My guess is that this is the point where the case is pulled out of the magazine. It can be where the bolt gets really tough to operate, and I'm guessing this is because the case on firing expands against the walls of the magazine. If there was any oil or left over cosmoline its gonna stick at this point. Once past this point the bolt operation is, just pull straight back.
Now anyone know for sure if my above assumptions are correct?
KKKKFL
Franco2shoot
Member
OK,
Can somebody just slowly cycle the bolt with a dummy inside and take a guess?
KKKKFL
Can somebody just slowly cycle the bolt with a dummy inside and take a guess?
KKKKFL
yesit'sloaded
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I'm pretty sure you mean chamber instead of magazine Franco, if your gun is firing in the magazine you need to get it worked on
. I'm going to go pull one out of the safe and think about what you said because that sounds about right.
. I'm going to go pull one out of the safe and think about what you said because that sounds about right.yesit'sloaded
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The one I pulled out (1943 Tula ex-sniper) only made two clicks with the bolt in and only one out. The only click it made out of the rifle was the firing pin spring resetting. On opening with a round in the chamber I hear only the bolt cocking and then the bolt reaches the end of its travel you hear the ejector click and the round is ejected. Mine is all numbers matching and all seems to be fitted perfectly, I'll try one of my shot out m44s later.
Franco2shoot
Member
ejecting
Yup sorry for that mis-speak. Both my 91/30 and M44 as well as my son's M44 have the same feeling. Once fired, there are 3 distinct points that can be felt. Rotating the bolt up from the down and locked position, I can feel what I believe is the lugs unsnapping, then the point where the firing pin is fully cocked, and one last point that is where rotation becomes stiff. The point where Sticky bolt syndrom occurs. A sharp whack and the bolt is fully vertical.
If I understand things correctly, the spent cartridge is back against the the bolt face and under the ejector catch. I'm guessing that in the last 20 degrees of rotation the bolt is trying to move backwards a couple millimeter and pull the spent cartridge out of the chamber.
Is this a correct assumption?
KKKKFL
Yup sorry for that mis-speak. Both my 91/30 and M44 as well as my son's M44 have the same feeling. Once fired, there are 3 distinct points that can be felt. Rotating the bolt up from the down and locked position, I can feel what I believe is the lugs unsnapping, then the point where the firing pin is fully cocked, and one last point that is where rotation becomes stiff. The point where Sticky bolt syndrom occurs. A sharp whack and the bolt is fully vertical.
If I understand things correctly, the spent cartridge is back against the the bolt face and under the ejector catch. I'm guessing that in the last 20 degrees of rotation the bolt is trying to move backwards a couple millimeter and pull the spent cartridge out of the chamber.
Is this a correct assumption?
KKKKFL
yesit'sloaded
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I'm sorry for not thinking about it earlier. There is a CAD type cutaway that shows how the action works. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FXRY2j3RaUs You might be able to see it there.
Franco2shoot
Member
I saw on 7.62x54.net a video, and it sure looks to me that the last bit of rotation moving the bolt upwards causes a few millimeters of backwards movement of the shell casing. It's my theory that any oil in the breech will be turned to glue on firing and make this point of rotation jamb and require a brisk whack.
KKKKFL
KKKKFL
my mosins
1937 Izhevsk 91/30 (Spanish Civil War issue)
1943 Izhevsk 91/30 PU
1943 Sk.Y M39
1941 VKT M91
1943 Izhevsk 91/59
1953 Typ53
1915 Tula M91
1929 Tula 91/30 (updated dragoon)
1944 Izhevsk 91/30
1944 Izhevsk M38
1944 Izhevsk M44
1945 Izhevsk M44 (laminate stock)
1937 Izhevsk 91/30 (Spanish Civil War issue)
1943 Izhevsk 91/30 PU
1943 Sk.Y M39
1941 VKT M91
1943 Izhevsk 91/59
1953 Typ53
1915 Tula M91
1929 Tula 91/30 (updated dragoon)
1944 Izhevsk 91/30
1944 Izhevsk M38
1944 Izhevsk M44
1945 Izhevsk M44 (laminate stock)
orienteeer
Member
ok, enough, amish - nobody likes a braggart!
but i sure do envy that collection!
but i sure do envy that collection!
SimpleIsGood229
Member
Very nice collection, Amish! That 1915 Tula, M91 looks especially nice.
So, I officialy became a gun owner yesterday with the purchase of an SY M28 (I believe) at a local antique show I was attending with the wife and her grandparents. I actually never intended to buy anything (aren't those the best kind of purchases?) but I figured what the heck! And DW was all for it! Lucky me!
The catch is, until yesteday I didn't know anything about MNs outside of the name, but I am an eager student. I already know that the barrel is pretty gummie, but I'm not sure what else I should pay attention to. I appeal to the collective wisdom of the Mosin-Nagant club members... what are some of the main issues with these rifles, typically? What should I be looking out for?
And, yes, pictures will follow. Also, this is my first post here, though I've been reading for some time. So, hello to all. I look forward to many good discussions.
The catch is, until yesteday I didn't know anything about MNs outside of the name, but I am an eager student. I already know that the barrel is pretty gummie, but I'm not sure what else I should pay attention to. I appeal to the collective wisdom of the Mosin-Nagant club members... what are some of the main issues with these rifles, typically? What should I be looking out for?
And, yes, pictures will follow. Also, this is my first post here, though I've been reading for some time. So, hello to all. I look forward to many good discussions.
SY M28 is a helluva place to start i'd say value if in good condition is at least $400 maybe a little less if it has been upgraded to a M28/30 (look at the rear sight if it looks like this it's an M28 if it looks like the one on my M39 it's a 28/30)
if you want a bayonet for your rifle... good luck... they don't pop up often and are not cheap
when you say gummy i have to ask... have you ever fired or cleaned this rifle? wipe a white rag across the metal does it come back yellowish orange? it's covered in cosmoline... to remove cosmoline you need heat
for the barrel get a funnel a bucket and a kettle take the rifle apart and with the stock where it won't get wet hold one end of the barrel over the bucket with the funnel in the other (thick gloves are a good idea... barrel will get hot) have someone pour boiling water into the funnel... the heat of the water will soften and melt the cosmoline and allow it to flow freely... repeat at least once while the barrel is still warm wipe excess cosmoline from the barrel exterior and clean bore as normal
for the small parts you can choose to bake them at low heat in an oven or boil them in an old pot (i keep one i bought at a rummage sale just for such purposes) dry all parts immediately and you won't have to worry about rust
for the stock wrap it in newspaper and sit it someplace that gets hot (dashboard of a car on a hot summer day) let it sit all day bring it in wipe it off if you want you can then hit it with a hair dryer
it's next to impossible to get all the cosmoline initially (especially from the stock) expect the heat from shooting to cause more cosmoline to bleed out slowly
and last but not least always clean immediately after firing if using surplus ammo and always use water or a water based solvent for the immediate cleaning (i like to do a quick pass with a water based solvent (good old usgi bore cleaner.. not the vietnam and later stuff in the plastic bottle but the ww2/korea stuff in the can) at the range efore packing up to go home then do a proper cleaning later that evening)
if you want a bayonet for your rifle... good luck... they don't pop up often and are not cheap
when you say gummy i have to ask... have you ever fired or cleaned this rifle? wipe a white rag across the metal does it come back yellowish orange? it's covered in cosmoline... to remove cosmoline you need heat
for the barrel get a funnel a bucket and a kettle take the rifle apart and with the stock where it won't get wet hold one end of the barrel over the bucket with the funnel in the other (thick gloves are a good idea... barrel will get hot) have someone pour boiling water into the funnel... the heat of the water will soften and melt the cosmoline and allow it to flow freely... repeat at least once while the barrel is still warm wipe excess cosmoline from the barrel exterior and clean bore as normal
for the small parts you can choose to bake them at low heat in an oven or boil them in an old pot (i keep one i bought at a rummage sale just for such purposes) dry all parts immediately and you won't have to worry about rust
for the stock wrap it in newspaper and sit it someplace that gets hot (dashboard of a car on a hot summer day) let it sit all day bring it in wipe it off if you want you can then hit it with a hair dryer
it's next to impossible to get all the cosmoline initially (especially from the stock) expect the heat from shooting to cause more cosmoline to bleed out slowly
and last but not least always clean immediately after firing if using surplus ammo and always use water or a water based solvent for the immediate cleaning (i like to do a quick pass with a water based solvent (good old usgi bore cleaner.. not the vietnam and later stuff in the plastic bottle but the ww2/korea stuff in the can) at the range efore packing up to go home then do a proper cleaning later that evening)
SimpleIsGood229
Member
j_charles,
Welcome to THR! www.7.62x54r.net and www.surplusrifle.com are chock-full of info on the Mosin.
To add to Amish's post, mineral spirits and brake cleaner also work for cleaning off the cosmoline. Windex is another option for ridding the bore of the corrosive salts from the Commie surplus ammunition.
If you have any questions at all, feel free to ask (threads or PM). FYI, Cosmoline is the resident mil-surp expert.
Welcome to THR! www.7.62x54r.net and www.surplusrifle.com are chock-full of info on the Mosin.
To add to Amish's post, mineral spirits and brake cleaner also work for cleaning off the cosmoline. Windex is another option for ridding the bore of the corrosive salts from the Commie surplus ammunition.
If you have any questions at all, feel free to ask (threads or PM). FYI, Cosmoline is the resident mil-surp expert.
I'd advise against brake-cleaner or mineral spirits on degreasing a Finnish mosin, you might damage the finish. Better to simply heat it up using boiling water down the bore, and wipe away the grease.
A M-28 is one hell of a way to start your collection.
A M-28 is one hell of a way to start your collection.
Thanks for the speedy responses and warm welcome.
Some more background for you...
I don't know what kind of a deal I got, and I didn't even know it was an M28 until I got home and googled the markings. I picked it up for $90 on the word of another show attendee who would have taken it later if I hadn't. Definitely need to do some research as to value.
It looks pretty well used. I don't know as there is really any cosmo issues, the outside isn't gummie, though the stock is a little worn from use. It's really the inside ( I guess "bore" is the correct term?) that is all gritty and dirty.
Thanks for help.
AmishFury: Thanks for the 28 vs. 28/30 tip. It does indeed appear to be an M28.
Some more background for you...
I don't know what kind of a deal I got, and I didn't even know it was an M28 until I got home and googled the markings. I picked it up for $90 on the word of another show attendee who would have taken it later if I hadn't. Definitely need to do some research as to value.
It looks pretty well used. I don't know as there is really any cosmo issues, the outside isn't gummie, though the stock is a little worn from use. It's really the inside ( I guess "bore" is the correct term?) that is all gritty and dirty.
Thanks for help.
AmishFury: Thanks for the 28 vs. 28/30 tip. It does indeed appear to be an M28.
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Poor East Texan
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- May 15, 2008
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Welcome to THR and to the Mosin Owners Club!
I scored an M39 several years ago for $90. Pic is somewhere in this thread....
I scored an M39 several years ago for $90. Pic is somewhere in this thread....
You need to go over to forums.gunboards.com and introduce yourself, j_charles. It is THE Mosin forum on the internet. Those website references you were given are the domains of the guys that moderate that forum, so everybody knows their stuff.
Beetle Bailey
Member
Welcome to the new guys!
AmishFury That's a great collection. What kind of sling is on the 1944 Izhevsk M44? I haven't seen one like that before.
j charles Nice pickup with that M28. BTW, in your pictures, it looks like the rear sight is raised to the maximum distance. It might shoot a bit high unless you bring it back to the lowest setting. Enjoy that rifle.
AmishFury That's a great collection. What kind of sling is on the 1944 Izhevsk M44? I haven't seen one like that before.
j charles Nice pickup with that M28. BTW, in your pictures, it looks like the rear sight is raised to the maximum distance. It might shoot a bit high unless you bring it back to the lowest setting. Enjoy that rifle.
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