I just bought one of these O/U's in 20ga recently and fired it's first 150 rds through it at the trap range. It double fired on me numerous times and 3 or 4 times the firing pin actually pierced the primer on the bottom barrel. I've since sent it back to the factory for warranty repair. Are there any other Mossberg Silver Reserve 2 owners who've experienced some similar issues with this shotgun? I know the Silver Reserve 1 had issues with the firing pins breaking. I was hoping that this would've been fixed with the Silver Reserve 2.
Mossberg Silver Reserve 2 Buyers remorse
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oneounceload
member
Sorry to hear about your troubles; too bad Mossberg didn't select a better maker for their gun.......but they are built to a price point that means certain aspects do not get the attention they need. Hopefully, Mossberg will make it right.
We had several of the "new" Mossberg and Stevens o/u guns with problems from the factory...from ftf, failure to open, and others. I looked hard and found, at reasonable prices this past year, a Citori superlight and the year before, a Superposed Lightning at not much more than the retail for either of the above.
Patience.
Patience.
Many of them. When I worked in a gunshop we sold lots of inexpensive O/Us from Mossberg, Stoeger and Remington / Baikal. They all had much higher than average problem rates. The gunsmith finally refused to work on any more Remington / Baikals.
I had to clean every Silver Reserve for about 20 minutes each before it would go together without grinding. That was just to get the grit out of the receiver and barrel interface. I shudder to think what it was like in the lockworks where I couldn't reach.
Building a double shotgun is expensive and if you try to do it below a certain price point, quality suffers.
My advice: If you've got a $500 budget, get a good pump until you can afford a good O/U.
SilverReserve2Problems
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Different but simular
My SR II was cocking very stiffly. And then the firing pin on the bottom broke. It was in the first year at about 500 to 800 rounds. I sent it back to Mossberg. They fixed it under warranty. Got it back still stiff in the cocking, but no where near as bad, and had the new firing pin. Anyway it has gotten stiffer again and I have it apart to the internals and am about to WD 40 the crap out of the firing pin springs and see if that helps at all. I have buyers remorse but I really hate all the browning told you so guys. (especially at my club) if I could have afforded one I would have bought one. :banghead:
My SR II was cocking very stiffly. And then the firing pin on the bottom broke. It was in the first year at about 500 to 800 rounds. I sent it back to Mossberg. They fixed it under warranty. Got it back still stiff in the cocking, but no where near as bad, and had the new firing pin. Anyway it has gotten stiffer again and I have it apart to the internals and am about to WD 40 the crap out of the firing pin springs and see if that helps at all. I have buyers remorse but I really hate all the browning told you so guys. (especially at my club) if I could have afforded one I would have bought one. :banghead:
oneounceload
member
It isn't the firing pins springs making it stiff - it is the cocking of the hammers. Just shoot it a lot more and will slowly get smoother (hopefully - at least it should)..You do not want it TOO easy to open, that's a sign of wearing out, not in.
SilverReserve2Problems
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Ok, but
Ok, that being said why does it get stiffer seemly instead of seeming to get looser? And I will add that I have about 800 rounds through it at least.
Ok, that being said why does it get stiffer seemly instead of seeming to get looser? And I will add that I have about 800 rounds through it at least.
SilverReserve2Problems
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One more thought
An entirely different message board actually suggested trimming the springs a little (which I would never do). That is what made me think of lubing that rod the springs are around.
An entirely different message board actually suggested trimming the springs a little (which I would never do). That is what made me think of lubing that rod the springs are around.
Virginian
Member
Why is it, if you cannot afford a good O/U, you are bound and determined to get an O/U anyway? A good repeater beats a cheap O/U every time. An O/U will not make you hit any more targets unless it fits you better than a repeater, and most repeaters are a lot easier and cheaper to adjust. The ONLY advantage an O/U has is you do not have to pick up the empties, and maybe two chokes (having never missed another choke I can't say for sure). No one who knows guns will be impressed, either.
SilverReserve2Problems
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O/U
Well speaking for myself, I was shooting trap with a 500 which was pounding the crap out of me and seemed to be doing the same to the gun, which was made back when they still had some decent quality. I kinda fell under the influence of the old timers at the club (who told me to buy browning), and went with a double I could afford. It really does shoot much nicer than the 500. It has ported barrels and is the 28 inch extractor model. I have since learned pretty much what you said, stick a Birchfield-Casey shell catcher on the side of (whatever) semi-auto and away you go with very little kick. I think the o/u craze is a bit of group think now that I have experienced it.
Anyway I took the gun down to the internals and blasted it with WD (blu-torch) let it drain and wiped it down and then blasted it with Rem Oil in aerosol can wiped it down and re-assembled it. It's still stiff, but, it doesn't seem to be "cranking" it down when you open it. And it doesn't feel "wrong" like it did before. There wasn't much crud in there, but now there isn't any crud in there. (don't worry I put some empty shells in there before I dry fired it). I am just breaking it open with a firm smooth crank and seems to be performing acceptably
Well speaking for myself, I was shooting trap with a 500 which was pounding the crap out of me and seemed to be doing the same to the gun, which was made back when they still had some decent quality. I kinda fell under the influence of the old timers at the club (who told me to buy browning), and went with a double I could afford. It really does shoot much nicer than the 500. It has ported barrels and is the 28 inch extractor model. I have since learned pretty much what you said, stick a Birchfield-Casey shell catcher on the side of (whatever) semi-auto and away you go with very little kick. I think the o/u craze is a bit of group think now that I have experienced it.
Anyway I took the gun down to the internals and blasted it with WD (blu-torch) let it drain and wiped it down and then blasted it with Rem Oil in aerosol can wiped it down and re-assembled it. It's still stiff, but, it doesn't seem to be "cranking" it down when you open it. And it doesn't feel "wrong" like it did before. There wasn't much crud in there, but now there isn't any crud in there. (don't worry I put some empty shells in there before I dry fired it). I am just breaking it open with a firm smooth crank and seems to be performing acceptably
oneounceload
member
Good, glad to hear it seems to be getting better. Guns that cock on opening will always be stiffer than those that don't - but the majority are made to cock on opening.
SwampWolf
Member
It's my opinion that you will need to spend at least $1,500.00 or so (and probably closer to $2,000.00) to get a new, quality-made double-barreled shotgun (be it an o/u or a s/s). Any amount of money much less will only buy you a shotgun that is sufficient only for relatively infrequent use. "You get what you pay for" is especially relevant when it comes to buying a shotgun sporting twin barrels-again, in my opinion.
SilverReserve2Problems
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Yup
@swampwolf. Yup.
@swampwolf. Yup.
eastbank
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browns and bretts are hard to beat in their price range. i know my brown bt-100 cost me 850.00 used and i know it has over 20,000 rounds thru it with out a bobble and i could have traded it in to mr etchen on a 725 20ga with 32" barrels for more than i paid for it at the state shoot at elysburg last month. eastbank.
oneounceload
member
Not just your opinion.....
$1500-$2000 is a decent starting price range for a gun that will go the distance and be reliable. I bought a Browning model that was being discontinued over 20 years ago. I shot it for 20+ years and put 300,000 rounds through it. At 90,000, I had the firing pins and springs replaced along with the top lever spring. Still going strong.
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