Moving from a LCT to a LnL?

[silicosys4]

Yes, RCBS primer tubes work with the LNL-AP, but often the shuttle doesn't line up just right, and sometimes you have to manually pull the shuttle back just a hair at the top of your stroke to line the shuttle up with the primer tube. This seems to happen more with the large primer tubes, not so much with the smalls.

 

[MagicD]

I was someone that had issues with the priming system and in retrospect not keeping the shuttle system ABSOLUTELY free of debris was the major issue, as well as an incorrectly shaped metal piece.
Now all is well and I have the highest regard for their service and guarantee.The LNL is slick and fast just finished 100 .357 in 30 min without difficulty.

 

[dickttx]

Received my LnL AP yesterday afternoon.
I had went to the hardware store a couple of hours previously to get the 5/16" bolts, nuts, and washers it called for in the instructions downloaded from the internet. Also, as stated in the Hornady videos.
When I opened the box and removed the press body I saw that it was not going to use 5/16" bolts. A 1/2" drill bit passed easily through the holes on the press.
Back to the hardware store for 1/2" stuff.
I mounted it on a bench top which is made from 2 3/4" thick laminated maple (a piece of shuffleboard). Since I was drilling 1/2" holes I had to stop and recharge my drill battery before I finished.
Followed the installation and setup instructions OK till I noticed that the primer feed cam was just kind of dangling. Found an addendum to the instructions concerning some new parts that hold the bottom of the cam. Apparently it had come loose in packing. Greased it where needed and everything seemed to work smoothly.
This morning I changed the large primer parts for small primer and installed my Lee dies and Pro auto disk powder measure for 38 Super. The Lee dies adjusted OK, but as some had mentioned, they are about as far into the bushings as they will go. I had not purchased any of the Hornady locking die rings as they are quite expensive and I wanted to try without them. Die setup was not any different than normal. I was using an adjustable charge bar in the PAD and it would not drop any powder. Investigation showed that after I got the proper flare in my case, the ACB hole was covered up in the bottom of the powder measure. I switched to a disk hole that threw the next lower charge weight and it worked OK.
Started single loading some cartridges to get the hang of it. My biggest problem was that I was waiting for the turret to turn, like my LCT. It never did. Ended up loading a batch of 50 rounds. I had three that I missed the primer, and, of course, had a lot of loose powder. Seems I was failing to set a bullet sometimes and that got me out of sequence for setting the primer. Also, being used to the LCT, I was kind of expecting to only seat a primer on the back stroke every four lever pulls.
Cleaned up, inspected my rounds, and took a break for a few minutes, then loaded another 50 rounds. Much smoother that time, but right at the end I missed some primers again. This time I ran out of primers and was not enough used to the feel that I could tell the difference.
I had more loose powder today than I have had in two and a half years with my LCT.
The press operated very smoothly. The only friction I felt was from the expanding/flaring/powder drop die when the case came off of it.
I was very pleased with the ability to easily see the powder level in the case. I am used to looking at this on my LTC and, for the time being, would rather use the visual powder check than the powder cop, etc. Still a little fumble fingered at removing and reinserting a case to weigh the powder.
I am only using four dies right now. I skipped number two and put the powder measure in three, to put any spilled powder further away from the primer system. However, none of my loose powder was from the powder measure.
All in all a very nice press. I will have a learning curve, but I did on my LCT also. Crushed several cases because of short stroking and not following the correct procedures. Now that one is almost second nature to operate, and I am sure the LnL will soon be.
Appreciate all the info you all provided.

 

[Legion489]

Might I recommend the Dillon 550B? I know of some pro reloaders who have both and like both. The Dillon is (according to them) easier to use, the Hornady easier to change primer sizes on. No matter which you buy you will be getting a high quality machine that will last you for many years and both are companies that WILL stand behind their products as well. Possibly in ten years that might not matter to you, but your heirs will thank for buying quality from a reputable company.

 

[john16443]

dickttx - your experience so far with the LNL mirrors mine from earlier this year. I also retired my Lee turret with the LNL. Getting the feel and rhythm down will soon become second nature.

Don't hesitate to use that little white plastic rod as your primer tube level gage. With the priming system empty, cycle the press handle down and up so that the little rod drops into the hole on the primer shuttle. When the handle is returned to the up position, you'll see that the primer shuttle has been held back and the rod is held in place. Make a mark on the rod and add a piece of tape or something to the rod. This tape flag will now be your visual reference for when you are running low or out of primers. Oh, and if you do end up not priming and spilling powder, stop immediately and clean it up. It WILL screw up with primer feeding if it gets into that area of the press. A can of compressed air for keyboards is on my bench, and a quick shot keeps this area clean.

On your next trip to the hardware store, you may want to pick up a split ring lock washer for the bolt that holds down the shellplate. Mine would tend to loosen slightly during operation, and the lock washer on top of the large flat washer provided solved that.

Keep a few clean spent cases handy for the calibers you're loading. When you get to the end of a session, insert these spent cases in the emply slots of the shellplate until your last round clears your seating die. This will keep the load on the shellplate consistent every stroke, and will result in the last round COL to be the same as the others. I've found that when I wasn't doing this, the last round would have a significantly shorter COL than the others. Same is true for the first round in a session if the shellplate isn't evenly loaded.

Sounds like you have the RCBS bullet feeding die dialed in, I know you'll love it. I'm not sorry one bit for upgrading from my Lee turret to a LNL. Since I sonic clean my brass, I use the LNL with just a universal decapping pin in place to deprime before cleaning. I use my Lee SS to size the cleaned cases prior to storage. I have the 5 stations on my LNL set up to flare, charge, drop bullet, seat, taper crimp.

 

[k4swb]

A Little Trick

Keep a few clean spent cases handy for the calibers you're loading. When you get to the end of a session, insert these spent cases in the emply slots of the shellplate until your last round clears your seating die. This will keep the load on the shellplate consistent every stroke, and will result in the last round COL to be the same as the others. I've found that when I wasn't doing this, the last round would have a significantly shorter COL than the others. Same is true for the first round in a session if the shellplate isn't evenly loaded.

The above is pretty good advice but:

Station one: deprime and resize. Make sure that the die at least kisses the shell plate.

In station three I use a powder check die not to check powder but to just kiss the shell plate so every stroke is more or less balanced.

This should eliminate needing to keep the shell plate full.

One more thing. If you really like the Lee disk dispencer by all means use it but if you ever get the Hornady measure figured out you will most likely see the Lee gathering dust.

The main reason I chose the Hornady over the Dillon was the powder measure. I use a Redding that operates similar and have had an older Hornady measure almost identical to the one that comes with the press for years. I also have the Lee disk measure with upgrades and while I like it, I prefer the drum type measures.

 

[dickttx]

Thanks for the additional tips. They all make sense to me now.
While loading a second 100 rounds I found that you could short stroke and get a double charge of powder. Although it was very easy to see a double charge of 5gn of HP38 in a 38 Super case, it bothered me that it was possible, so I ordered an RCBS lock out die Sunday afternoon.
Received it yesterday afternoon, and remembering a u-boob video showing how to take it apart and clean it, I proceeded to do so. Couldn't get it back together correctly so I took out the instructions. First thing they said was that there was no lubrication that came into contact with the powder, and that it was difficult to reassemble. Should have started there. Lost one of the balls a couple of times but always found it. Realized that the shaft had to go in from the bottom instead of the top. Finally got it back together and set up.
Loaded another 100 rounds but still missed two primers. Have to concentrate even more on the primers.
This afternoon I found 100 cases that I had previously sized and primed so I decided to load them. Loaded them one at a time (short stroking the sizing die) and really tested the lock out die. Short stroked the powder measure several times to end up with the empty case at the lock out die. It always locked up. Also double stroked the powder measure several times and the double charge always locked up the press. I have a lot of confidence in the lock out die now.
I am using my Lee four die set with the Pro Auto Disk. I have heard nothing but good about the Hornady powder measure but I will continue with the Lee until I have the proper procedures down pat. I KNOW it will ALWAYS drop the same charge as the die expands and flares the case. One thing I don't have to worry about in becoming familiar with a new system.

 

[tightgroup tiger]

dickttx,
I'm really glad you updated us on lockout die, I will have to buy one now.

When I first started using mine I had problems with missing primers, but after I started putting the white rod in mine just for weight pushing down on them I haven't had any more problems. By the way the white rod isn't covered in the video. I had to ask on here when I bought mine what it was for, also.

I still check every loaded round that comes out of mine for missing primers when I'm done loading but I haven't found any for the last 2k that I ran through it.

In my case, it was mostly "me" learning, not the fault of the press. Same with learning that when I put a case in the shell plate wrong so the retaining spring didn't hold it in place and it doesn't line up with the resizing die and I can't cycle the press, to only lower the shell plate only far enough to get the case where it belongs to finish that stroke so I don't double stroke the press and mess up everything else.

The more I used it the more I learned the feel of it, and could identify when I made a mistake. It's part of the process of a new machine.

 

[dickttx]

Loaded #'s 301/400 yesterday. First time I have ever went through a complete 100 without missing a primer. I still have the most trouble with primers. Not with the system messing up, but with the feel. I can only tell about half the time that I am actually seating the primer. Wish there was a way to tell that there is actually a primer ready to be seated. I am using the white rod in the primer tube, and have marked with tape at the empty position. I think I probably need to spend a little time and mark it for 25 and 50 primers too. The parts list calls it a "follower" but the instructions call it a "Primer Fouler". What are the various methods you use to manage your primers? Do you always put in 100 then empty out the excess? (Lost cases, I keep my cases in CaseGard 100 boxes and reload till they are gone.)
With only a few twists the bushings have loosened to where I can insert and remove them with my fingers, without touching the Lee die rings.
The lock out die worked completely again. Very impressed with it.
I think I may try some 45 ACP today, just to get things set up for that caliber.

I have developed somewhat of a rhythm in that when I raise the handle I push it all the way back to seat the primer and hold it till I insert an empty case and set a bullet. Then I push down to load everything.

tightgroup tiger, I think the lock out die will really ease your mind. I still have one of those flexible LED lights that is pointed directly at my powdered case under the lock out die and check it every time. If you place it BEHIND the post it doesn't shine in your eyes.

 

[GT1]

...the instructions call it a "Primer Fouler".

That right there has had me chuckling for a couple minutes...

 

[tightgroup tiger]

the lock out die locking the press up would ease my mind but the powder cop die to me is distracting, having to look up every time from what I'm doing to see if the powder charge is correct.

I can see that easy enough in the shell while the shell plate is down, but I like k4swb's idea of using it for steadying the shell plate by offsetting the deflection of the resizing die.

I want to experiment with that, it has good potential when you get hard to size cases and when starting and finishing the run.

As far as feeling the primers, you know how easy the handle pushes forward when you don't have a case in that station, if it feels that easy while priming a case you probably should throw that case away for an oversized primer pocket.
That's the beauty of the retention spring and being able to just take that case out and replace it without having to empty the press and start over. You pitch that one and replace it with one of the primed spares I keep beside the press and keep going. If I feel anything at all for resistence I just keep going.

 

[k4swb]

tightgroup tiger wrote:
I can see that easy enough in the shell while the shell plate is down, but I like k4swb's idea of using it for steadying the shell plate by offsetting the deflection of the resizing die.

I don't use the powder check die for checking powder because it sometimes drags powder back out of the case causing a few grains of powder to be deposited where it shouldn't be. As stated, I just use it to balance out the press pressure.

So far (many thousands of rounds) I have been able to just glance at the case as I insert a bullet and see the powder level. I'm not accurate within +/- .1 grain but I can spot a wrong looking charge.

I have never short stroked the press and I can see no way to double charge a case unless I do and a squib, although a PITA doesn't worry me.

One reason I like nickle brass is you can see right down in there with just a little light.

I could probably load well in excess of 300 rounds an hour if I tried but I usually just plod along at 200-250 per hour and I pay real close attention to what I'm doing. Sure beats the heck out of an hour + per 50 I used to do on the SS.

 

[dickttx]

Was going to change my press from 38 Super to 45 ACP yesterday. It was 108° here yesterday, so I wasn't going out to shoot.
Started with the shellplate, and my new #45 would not go on the drive hub. I could turn it upside down and it would slip on, but not right side up. Seemed to be the keyway that was restricting it. I will attack it with some small files and see if that will make it work. I e-mailed Hornady, so they will probably send a new one. I had previously contacted them and have three primer slide springs on the way. I know that I will not always be able to find them when they shoot across the garage.
Everything is working so well with the 38 Supers that I kind of hate to change things. However, I have all of those loaded that I want to right now. Even fumbling around and learning, the output is pretty good.

 

[tightgroup tiger]

Everything is working so well with the 38 Supers that I kind of hate to change things

I know what you mean, mine has been set up on 9mm ever since I bought it.
I bought the .357 equip for it at the same time but I'm loading it on my old progressive press because I don't want to change anything either.

Mine has been working perfect after my learning curve from running a pro1000. I am still loading my .357mags on it and probably won't change from that routine because my time alloted for loading shells seems to keep getting shorter and shorter from being very busy at work and home.

The LNL-AP shortened my reloading time by countless hours and with the other press set up on the .357s, it really works for my time constrictions.

I can easily see why some of our members have 3 or 4 auto-progressives.
At one time I had 5 presses, 3 SS, 1 turret, and 1 AP. I now have 2 APs and one SS. That's working for me now.

When I need another additional press I will either buy another pro1000 or another LNL-AP depending on what volume I have to reload for that caliber, no, I'll buy another LNL-AP
I won't get rid of my pro1000 but I don't know if I want another one.

 

[dickttx]

Went to the bench today and took a couple of files to my #45 shellplate and, with a little grease, got it to go on and tightened down. Went ahead and changed out the primer parts to large primer, and set up my 45 dies. Pulled out 25 cases to test the 45 with. Lots of trouble with the primer. Wouldn't feed, the shuttle would hang up on the seater punch and it was not going back as far as it should. Finally got 18 loaded and decided to tear down the primer system.
When I got to looking I was pretty embarrassed.
First, I had the primer tube upside down.
Second, the primer feed cam had came off the stud at the bottom.
Cleaned everything and reassembled correctly. Loaded an additional 32 cartridges without any problems.
I always look at the operator first, I just didn't look quick enough.