Muzzle brake help

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newguy07

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Feb 13, 2007
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In my earlier thread about my savage model 16 trophy hunter in .308 being to heavy of recoil for me to enjoy shooting lots of people suggested getting a muzzle break. This sounds like an interesting option but I know nothing about them and have some questions.

1) how much do they reduce recoil
2) any recommended places to buy/brands at a decent price
3)can you install these yourself? What's the process for a savage?

Thanks
 
You would need to have the end of your barrel threaded by a gunsmith. Then you can buy whatever brand you fancy. I would suggest just having your gunsmith do the threading, brake selection, and installation so as to be sure everything fits right. Most gunsmiths make their own brakes.

As I stated in your other thread, I had a browning x-bolt micro hunter in .308 that was kickin me around too much and exhibited a lot of muzzle flip. I had my gunsmith build a brake for it, and now it honestly recoils about the same as my .223 AR15. The reduction in recoil is impressive...... But so is the increase in noise.
 
s,/break/brake/
Please.
B
P.S. That is, the word is 'brake', not 'break'.
 
Be prepared for a really loud .308. Wouldn't it be simpler just to shoot a .243??
 
The question yet to be answered is how uncomfortable is the recoil? Are we talking 1 shot and you're done or 20 makes you walk away?

A rebarrel will run you $290 installed, a brake will be $190 installed, you'd need to remove the barrel and ship it though for the prices quoted (E. A. Brown, have used their custom barrels and Brockman Brake personally). Recoil would be somewhere in the .243-.223 range and the noise will break your eardrums.

If you're committed to keeping the .308, then proceed with less expensive options first like a Limbsaver pad but, like hentown, I would also suggest a different caliber. Brown can sell you one of their custom barrels for $259 and ship it to you.
 
The smith needs to have the brake in hand before threading. He will need to check thread on the brake, probably clean them up, time your barrel threading so the brake is turned the right way when tight (most don't have ports on bottom) and most brakes have to be opened up for your caliber (most don't make a 6mm, 6.5mm, 7mm, ... brake, the smith has to do that).

If there's a rifle guru that you know, may want have him go shooting with you before sending it off for a brake. He may can help you reduce recoil by working on position.

Good luck.
 
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