Muzzle Brakes

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KD7ONE

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I like the .300 Win Mag, but after putting 10 rounds down range, I feel like my shoulder is going to fall off.

I'm not a big guy who can absorb a lot of recoil. I'm only 5'4" and 110 lbs.

I am interested in putting a muzzle brake on a .300 Win Mag but I am also wondering if putting one on would affect long distance trajectory. If it does, how much does it affect it?
 
Don't know if you use a guide/spotter when hunting; but they almost universally hate muzzle brakes. It may not be a consideration for you; but a lot of the African guides really discourage brakes on their client's rifles.
 
Muzzle brakes wont help reduce felt recoil but will reduce muzzle "flip". I had a recoil reducer installed in the stock of my .300 Win Mag and it tamed the felt recoil down to a .243. No Joke.
 
i have a Savage 116 SE in .338 cal. that is equipped with a brake that can be turned off and on. I have never noticed a change in trajectory or poi from one position to the other. Of course, I'm referencing only my experience with this one rifle. It is possible, I guess, that other rifles might be affected differently.
 
I stand by what I said about the recoil reducer in the stock. It tamed my .300 Win Mag down to where my wife had no problem shooting it.
 
I have an integral brake on my SHR, however it does make the gun very very loud. Dont know about it reducing recoil because I start flinching after about 30 shots...
 
I like the .300 Win Mag, but after putting 10 rounds down range, I feel like my shoulder is going to fall off.
Click to expand...
This appears masochistic to me.

What for are you using a .300WinMag? 1000yd target shooting? Do you need something with such a heavy recoil?

I like my D8 Caterpillar tractor, but it tears up the pavement something awful--so I don't regularly commute to work with it. I use something better adapted to the job at hand.

A lighter-recoiling firearm with which you could practice comfortably would probably get you better results in the long run.

Not being sarcastic here, just trying to help.
 
There's only one good reason to equip a rifle with a brake: to reduce recoil being felt. Reduced muzzle "flip" is a byproduct. Zak Smith was addressing the original poster's query when he said "Good muzzle brakes absolutely reduce felt recoil." They do.
 
While they do reduce recoil, the noise level goes up to a point that is unacceptable for me. I stand hunt, and touching off my 7mm rem mag without muffs on is bad enough without the brake.
 
i wouldn't touch off any centerfire rifle w/o muffs on anyway. not even "just once" when hunting. wear hearing protection when shooting.
 
We make a version of our KA-1230 brake with a 9/16x24 thread, you'd have to get your barrel threaded. The KA-1830 works best for heavy calibers, but we'd need the barrel/barreled action to install it, they're custom fitted for each gun.

Here's an older video clip of one of our KA-1830's on a 300WM Thompson Encore. Without the brake the recoil is absolutely brutal :(

http://s3.photobucket.com/albums/y99/kingjoey/?action=view&current=300WM.flv
 
BTW DorGunR, a muzzlebrake reduce felt and actual recoil because it eliminate the thrust from the muzzleblast and it redirects the mass of the burning propellant equally in opposite directions lateral or diagonal to the axis of the barrel. A compensator is designed to reduce muzzle flip by directing gases upwards to push the muzzle down.
 
Give Earl Hickman a call at 719-633-4680...

Earl (Hickman Rifles LLC in Colorado Springs) manufactures in-house one of the most effective muzzle brakes in the world.

The trick to making a muzzle brake work is to provide the maximum area on the front side of the port holes for the exhaust gases to work against coupled with keeping the bullet hole in the brake as close to the bore diameter as possible (to reduce the gas blow-by in the brake itself to a minimum)... When you manufacture and install the brake yourself, you can keep the hole in the brake to the absolute minimum since you're controlling how well the muzzle and the brake are threaded for each other to guarantee that there is no misalignment between the two.

Many 'custom' brakes are really too small in diameter to do much other than increase the noise. A good brake will dramatically reduce the felt recoil, and make shooting the .300 Win. Mag. a pleasure...

All muzzle brakes will increase the noise of shooting quite dramatically. Use good hearing protection...

Forrest
 
My original plan for my LR-308 was to have a JP Recoil Eliminator Brake installed. As I think this through, it seems to be a good way to throw away $100 or so (minus labor). On a 12 pound rifle in .308, I don't anticipate much recoil.


-- John
 
Zak, I have a Remington 700P and would like to get a brake for it. In addition to myself, my wife and children also shoot this rifle. Which brake would you recommend and who would you have install it?
 
There a number of effective brakes out there, and most of the good ones have similar design. Although it's kind of large, the Badger FTE brake works well. The MSTN/PRI "QC" comp is also effective. The various JP brakes work well but are very loud. I prefer the brakes that do not require a torque spec to "time" because they are easier to remove and replace (e.g. for cleaning) and the only one I'm aware of besides the proprietary AI brakes is the FTE. There are a lot of other brakes available for bolt rifles, and I'm not aware of many of them. Just about any competent gunsmith with a lathe should be able to thread the muzzle and install a brake.
 
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