My $800 S&W disassembles itself... JUST LIKE MY $400 TAURUS DID. >=(

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VanGoghComplex

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Okay. The title of this thread is about as angry as I needed to get, but now that the red mist has subsided, I'm still left with a burning question re: my apparent waste of 4 c-notes. :mad:

When I used to clean my old Taurus 66, I noticed the side plate lines didn't match up smooth, and quickly found that after a few range trips, tightening the screws was necessary. At the time I figured: "Eh, it's a cheap gun. It's a small price to pay for the low price of entry." (It was my first firearm.)

Tonight as I was cleaning my Smith, lo and behold: side plate wasn't lining up! The screws worked themselves loose!

Is this normal? Am I raising my blood pressure for no good reason? Does this reflect badly on S&W, did I get a lemon, or is this just what revolvers do? How bad of an idea is it to loctite firearm screws? :fire:
 
It's never happens to me after many magnums being fired through all of my smiths. Just tighten back up and you'll probably be fine.

If it happens again, email S&W.
 
I periodically check the tightness of screws on my Smith and Wessons. They do loosen at times.

I have lost the cylinder release screw on one of my S&W revolvers once.

A dab of Loctite would help. Do not use too much and use the lowest strength.
 
Had that same problem with a Charter Arms Undercover. The cylinder crane screw worked it's way out and the two frame pins were coming out. Loctite would fix the crane screw but always had to keep an eye on the frame pins. I eventually sold it and have been pretty much a S&W J frame fan ever since. Never any problems with side plate screws backing out on them either.
 
What kind of smith and what were you shooting out of it?

Well, you could try a little loctite or just some beeswax on the threads, that should hold the screws down.

I've personally never had that problem and I've sent huge amounts of ammo down a 581 and model 64 before, so your screws may be just a little on the small side compared to other guns....don't really know.

you could try giving a call to Smith and Wesson customer service and they may send you a shipping label to send the gun in to get checked. It's not normal that screws back themselves out. Should be free as they have a lifetime warranty.
 
I agree that more information is needed. Right now we could be talking about anything from a Model 12 with +P+ ammo (no bueno) to a Model 28 with standard pressure LRN (should last until Kingdom Come).
 
Any chance the screws were put in the wrong place? My J-Frame has three screws on the side-plate. I'm just wondering if maybe the yoke screw was used in the wrong place and if that would be an issue.
 
OMG! What will you do when the ejector rod loosens up?(and it probably will)

I shoot most of my firearms regularly. Screws are always coming loose with my magnum revolvers along with others. Make sure you have a proper fitting screwdriver so you don't bugger the screw heads and don't over tighten. A little of the proper loc-tite works well if you want. Other areas to watch are sight screws and the screw that holds the cylinder latch.
 
Okay, having taken time to cool down, more specifics:

The gun is a S&W 686-6+, 5" barrel.

It's probably seen about 500 rounds. They've been a mix of stout (but not max) 158gr Win296 handloads, and much lighter 138gr Unique handloads.

If the screws are in the wrong places, Smith and Wesson put them there; gun was bought BNIB a month ago.

To the Ruger salesmen: thanks but no thanks.
 
Screws loosening on revolvers is common. Trust me. Especially snubs with
"stout" loads. I've been shooting Charter Arms guns for thirty years. They're just like a Harley Davidson. S&Ws do it also. You better carry tools if you're gonna run it. If oil seeps into those threads the screws will turn under torque. You can thoroughly degrease the screws and the holes and use a drop of Blue Loc tite. That will at least slow it way down but you need to get in the habit of checking them frequently. It's just the nature of a machine that bucks and uses threaded fasteners. Your little screwdriver is your friend. Never try to torque them as hard as possible (common mistake - the threads are very fine). Just snug them down.
 
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Super blackhawk .44 mag screws loosen all the time. Red loc tite worked well until I put it in the sonic cleaner. Now I keep a gunsmith screw driver set with me at the range.
 
VanGoghComplex said:
Okay, having taken time to cool down, more specifics:

The gun is a S&W 686-6+, 5" barrel.

It's probably seen about 500 rounds. They've been a mix of stout (but not max) 158gr Win296 handloads, and much lighter 138gr Unique handloads.

If the screws are in the wrong places, Smith and Wesson put them there; gun was bought BNIB a month ago.

To the Ruger salesmen: thanks but no thanks.
Click to expand...
You know I did think of one time that a Smith screw backed out on me. The front screw on the rear sight of my 460 magnum backed out and needed to be tightened down. I kind of expected it though given that it's a low yield nuclear device. ;)

Drail's post #16 is well put.
 
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Tighten them as others have said and drive on. They are screws and will come loose on rare occasions. Can't say I ever had it happen (that I recall) on any of my Smiths. Do remember a Ruger front sight coming loose (they didn't have it drilled deep enough for the screw.

Nothing to get your blood hot about.
 
I have 8 S&W's all made before 1981 and have never had the side plate screws work loose from shooting.
 
Is it possible that the side plate screws have worn threads from being loosened and tightened back up multiple times, that and the combined effect of recoil on loose screws.

I have my share of side plate screw loosening up, but I solved it by simply replacing the screws, then by using the right properly fitting screw driver to tighten them down adequately, that goes for all other threaded mechanisms.

As for using thread locking substances, I don't use them. The risk of breaking a screw off, or stripping the slotted screw head due to being unable to break it free, just doesn't interest me. About as far as I ever go with thread locking substances, is to apply a dab of finger nail polish to the threads.

So about 20 years ago, after having grown tired of the extractor rod threads on my M66-2 constantly coming loose, thus resulting in a frustrating day at the range. I came up with a method to indefinitely eliminate this issue. I learned to first make sure the extractor star is properly secured, so as to avoid damaging the cylinder to star fit, then I used a small length of leather to wrap around the extractor rod, then I use a pair of needle nose vise grips on the leather wrap, then just tighten it down good and snug. Since having done this, I have not had one single problem with any of my extractor rods getting loose since.

GS
 
Shoot any gun enough and screws can come loose. Be it a Taurus, Ruger, or S&W. As for side-plates not quite lining up, same thing. All manufacturers have issues. It's just a matter of degrees. Charter, Taurus, Ruger, & S&W are all consumer grade guns, unless you're talking Performance Center.

Use some Loctite for the loose screws.
 
Of all the guns I own...revolvers are by far the worst about having screws come loose. Most of my revolvers are Smiths from 1950's to 1990's era. Loctite thread locker is a great fix for screw issues. I must add that I've not had side plate screws come loose...yet.
 
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