My Earthquake Kit, Mk. II

Status
Not open for further replies.

Cosmoline

Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2002
Messages
23,646
Location
Los Anchorage
Katrina has prompted me to completely overhaul my earthquake kit. I'm expanding it to two sealed plastic totes, each wrapped with bungee cords. In addition, a bug out pack will be in my truck. The contents of this kit were informed by my years off-grid.

First, the food box.

One "roughneck" plastic tote w/ lid, standard size.
Two bungee cords to seal it

Two boxes, Sailor Boy brand pilot bread (exp. approx end of Mayan calendar)
Tea bags in box
Extra water, one gallon sealed in original plastic container
Beef jerkey, sealed (exp. 2008)
Four power bars (exp. 2007)
Six tins, King Oscar Brisling (exp. 2007-2008)
Six containers, standard SPAM (exp. 2008)
One tin of hard candy sealed
Molasses, sealed
Salt, iodonized, sealed
Pepper, sealed
Electrolyte solution, one bottle sealed in original container
Canola oil, one small bottle sealed in original container
Crisco, one small tin with factory seal
One sealed bag, shag pipe baccy
Spare pipe
One sealed tin, powdered goat milk
One large container, instant oatmeal
Raisins, large container sealed.
Liver pate, three tins sealed
4x lighters, high-quality
Can opener/bottle opener

+seven gallons water stored in heavy duty plastic container

+water filtration pump (still shopping for a good one)

---------

Now, some of my reasoning behind this somewhat unorthodox and low-tech food box.

--Everything in it can be eaten without being cooked. This is why dry rice, dry beans and similar items are left out. With luck I'll have someplace to cook and the required heat source, but I'm not relying on it.

--There is more emphasis on high-fat foods and oil than traditional food kits, which tend to be very lean. My experience is that esp. in the cold your body will burn an amazing amount of energy during a SHTF situation. It's not the time for lean meats. Spam, sardines, and plenty of oil and crisco fuel the fire.

--The insant oats can be mixed with water, molasses, oil, raisins and whatever else is on hand to make a high-fat, ultra-high-carb goo that tastes pretty good. Heated it's even better.

--Most of the food is packed with key vitamins and minerals, esp. those we tend to lose lots of during a crisis. Mine is also vitamin-A and D heavy due to the climate here. The sardines and pate aren't typical fare for most folks, but they're both excellent sources of minerals and vitamins along with protein and fat.

--Why the pipe and 'baccy? Simple. My direct experience has been that a few small luxuries can help calm and center the mind even when everything is falling apart.

--I stow lighters in each kit, because again in my experience you can never have enough.

Next up, the survival/heating part of the kit.
 
Couldn't go wrong throwing a cast iron skillet into one of those bug out totes. It wouldn't take up much room in the bottom and it'll even survive your cooking! :neener:
 
Get some waterproof lighters and some firestarter sticks.

Check some of those instant hot chocolate packts to see how long its good for, thats another nice luxury item. That and some coffee for the am's if you drink the stuff. If not, its a great item to trade or just give to someone and put a smile on thier face.
 
Good suggestion

Here's the second part of the kit:

1 propane heater/cookstove (the kind you flip horizontally to cook on) w/ large canister adapter

3 small propane canisters (large propane canister in truck)

More lighters including one windproof refillable lighter and fuel

One pre-packaged mil spec first aid kit

1 triple antibiotic cream, extra

2 self-adhesive medical wraps

1 atheltic elastic wrap, self-adhesive

4 assorted surgical clamps

Various extra bandages

1 bottle hydrogen peroxide

stainless steel utensils

1 box trash bags

Electricians tape

Duck tape

50' of nylong high-strength rope

25' of parachute cord

1 Headlamp and extra batteries

1 emergency beacon, floating maritime style with extra battery

1 pre-paid cell phone, charged

1 combination lamp/heater (on backorder from Lehman's)

2 pair heavy duty plastic gauntlets

2 wool blankets, military surplus

Assorted 7.62x54R ammunition in sealed surplus decon kit container

Assorted 12 ga. shotgun shells

One box .22 LR ammunition, sealed

Beretta 21A w/ spare magazine, greased with light Rigg coating and sealed in tupperware with anti-moisture pouches. Ammo kept separate.

1 container huggies wipes

2 bottles DEET

1 stainless steel folding knife

1 small container of bleach, sealed

2 clean high-grade towels

1 bottle lamp oil

Extra wool longjohns

------

This is still a work in progress, and I'm out of room in my tote at this point and I'm going to have to repack it.

I've given up on a kerosene heater as they tend to be pretty smokey and aren't very portable. I like the flip-style light industrial cooker/heater I found at Alaska Industrial Hardware. Note that this is NO RELATION TO ANY SPORTING GOOD/COLEMAN STYLE HEATER. It's a tough little customer that cranks out some serious BTU's. The design is all metal and the one out in Willow has held up for a year now without problems. It's designed to take canisters but can take a hose with an adaptor.

The lamp oil is for the backup lantern/cookstove I ordered from Lehman's. It's on backorder so who knows when it will get here but it's a Dietz--the best of the best as far as lanterns go. The oil can also be used as an excellent firestarter--as good as kerosene or better. This is NOT the same as the little fru fru lamps you can get at the grocery store or the cheap tin lanterns. It's a solid old-style lantern. My brass Dietz withstood punishment no light source should ever have to endure but kept on trucking.

The first aid kit is a standard olive drab plastic box military style with additions of more triple antibiotic cream (the kit only comes with one packet of it) plus a bunch of these self-adhesive bandage wraps I've found VERY handy when slashed in the past.

You will find no standard sporting goods items on this list for a very good reason-THEY DO NOT LAST AND WERE NOT BUILT TO LAST. Thirty years ago it was a different story. Your average camping items were made from steel or alumnium and would last for generations. Now they're made in China of ultra-cheap plastic and designed to be used for a few weeks total before they start to break. I wasted a ton of money on stuff from the sporting goods aisle before I learned to get my behind to Alaska Industrial Hardware and the surplus stores instead. It took the detonation of a Coleman procat heater and my near death to teach me, but it was a lesson well learned.

--The little .22 is one that I had been using as my pocket pistol until recently switching to a Smith & Wesson Model 49 "bodyguard." It's not too great for self defense but it's highly accurate and can kill any small game within 20 feet. It's also useful for signalling or as a backup piece. But mostly I'm thinking of it as a little squirrel getter in case my main rifles are out of ammo or buried somewhere (not to mention confiscated)
 
Water filter - look at the First Need filter system, it'll filter viruses, bacteria, and protozoa, plus many organic and inorganic chemical and aesthetic contaminants at the highest "purification" micron level (0.4 microns absolute) to provide great tasting water while protecting against water related disease.
I've got one and it works. Pick up an extra filter/pre-filter too, about $50 for both. I found the filter on sale for under $70.
 
Where can a fellow find pilot bread?

I'm putting together a bug out bag to stash in my truck toolbox and i'm having a problem finding food that'll keep in a toolbox like that.
 
The key is to get Sailor Boy brand Pilot Bread made by Interbake in Tacoma, NOT the national biscuit stuff that's used back east for chowders. Sailor Boy looks like this:

attachment.jpg


They have been Alaska tested and approved for generations. IIRC from an article I read a few years ago, Alaska is the main consumer of the product but some are also sold in NW specialty food stores.

Alaska costco ships all over, and they usually have an ample supply:

(907) 349-2335

SpanAlaska sales sells tons of the stuff, but there's a minimum order I believe:

1.800.367.9833

The local Fred Meyer and Carr's Quality Center also have supplies. The best bet might be to get a Fred Meyer down there or a Safeway (they now own Carrs) cross-ship some of the stuff to their store. It's worth asking, anyway.

There was an outfit that was selling it direct down there back before Y2K but I can't seem to find the site. I'll keep looking. There really is no substitute for the real sailor boy.
 

Attachments

  • sailor boy.JPG
    sailor boy.JPG
    98.2 KB · Views: 552
Where do you get sealed rasins? They sound like an excellent idea if they will keep a while. Canned stuff is OK but something closer to desert, like rasins, would help keep the spirits up.
 
I've double packed the raisins and hope to get at least two years of shelf life out of them, but I may be pushing things. The temps need to be low, but that's no problem here. It would be tougher in a hot climate, I suspect. It's iffy. I wonder if dates store better.
 
Thanks, I will try that. My hurricane kit (when we get earthquakes here they are small enough to escape detection by half the people) will ride in the car a lot, so in the summer it will get baked. Maybe it will teach me to update it once in a while.
 
also from lehmans

From Lehman’s you might wanna look at the olive oil lamps. They will burn with any cooking oil, really, and the jars, tho glass, are pretty sturdy. Fill ‘em up to just below the wick level, seal them up, pack ‘em in a box with foam around them and they will last 1000 years. If they leak for some reason, you won’t have Kero eating away your wool, or making things difficult for yas.

Cooking oil goes rancid, but y’all ain’t eatin’ the stuff…you are burnin’ it! If you buy lots of oil like we do, when you find it isn't fit to eat anymore (walnut oil spoils VERY fast), then you just slap it in the candle, and away you go! ;)
 
For the longest time my EQ kit didn't have anything to cook with except those canned heat chafing dish thingys. While your kit looks like more of a "to-go" kit, mine is more of a "hunker down" kit. So I bought a $40 Coleman propane stove and 20 of the 16.4-ounce fuel cylinders for it.

The reasons why I went with the small cylinders instead of a bulk BBQ tank are that the small cylinders were actually slightly cheaper than buying a new, filled bulk tank outright ($40 vs. $45), plus you can store the small cylinders indoors. 20 of the small cylinders is about the same as a bulk BBQ tank: A BBQ tank holds 20 lbs of propane and 20 of the small cylinders is 20.5 lbs of propane.

Also added cleaning supplies. Lots of them. You might have sewage spills in the house and/or a lot of rubble you'll want to clear out. Extra heavy duty trash bags or boxes or something may be needed.

After the 1994 Northridge quake, I found that lengths of flexible plumbing line would have been handy to have, to patch up broken water lines. At my house, it was the main feed to the water heater even though the water heater was strapped in.
 
Coleman :mad:

I've had their propane products actually blow up on me before. One of their "procat" heaters ignited in the middle of my first winter off grid and nearly ended me.

Lessons learned. The heater/cooker I got is this one:

http://www.mackspw.com/item.asp?item=MRH120

p31889C.jpg


It has a simple, all-metal design that's far tougher than anything Coleman makes. I used it quite a bit when I was living off grid, and it did a great job.
 
Just a reminder for those who haven't lived with these types of heaters, they all give off some carbon monoxide (CO). If they get out of adjustment they can turn out a lot more. Be careful out there...
---
CO is odorless, colorless, and preferentially bonds with hemoglobin (blocking oxygen from being carried by your blood). Every year folks die using heaters that are poorly adjusted in cold climates where modern "tight" housing means you don't have much in the way of ventilation. It has also been known to happen to folks who cook inside their tents.
 
cooking? white gas. more available than propane in a catastrophe, me thinks.
(same reasoning as that of 9mm/12 ga advocates)

stove? what's in my backpack? (6' from here.) same one as for the last decade, since my propane stove died on the first night of a rainy 3 day 'holiday' trip in the Sangre de Cristo Mts east of Santa Fe, NM: MSR whisperlight. Stnd backpacking stove, can be rebuilt in the field (if you've got the kit; ~8.75). (the 'international' version also burns kerosine) {key word: rebuilt}

crackers, liver pate and sardines are indeed easy without cooking. and taste good too.

But if one adds 1# of white rice with stove, you'll significantly increase your total calories. AND, even after the rice runs out, you can still cook wild tubers & voles.

actually, could i sub polenta for the rice?

hey, what're ya packing for H51N?

<google it>
 
But if one adds 1# of white rice with stove, you'll significantly increase your total calories.
Me? I carry at least 5# of both rice AND polenta in my kit. Plus 5# @ pintos, lentils, coconut granola, and as much pasta as I can carry (goes with everything). (especially if you've got 5-6 cans of tomatoes, and some oil {see below}.

Raisins are excellent, as are nuts.

But the most important thing on your list should be ... oil. Cooking oil, that is.

I remember an 8 day pack into the San Juans in S. CO. Six of us. Somehow, we all forgot oil. We had carbs out the wazoo. Beans, potato flakes, pasta, egg powder, power bars, trail mix. Check. We even had some protein. (Sardines. Canned chicken. Some freeze dried chicken. Even beef jerky.)

But no one brought oil. No lipids.

By day five we were craving oil. By day 7, we were nearly mad, dreaming of greasy cheeseburgers, racks of ribs and pizzas dripping with fat.

From that day on, I've never forgotten oil.
 
The heater/cooker I got uses standard propane canisters--not Coleman fuel. I believe it can be adapted to run off tanks. There are similar heaters designed to sit on top of tanks. They're usually used for industrial heating on projects, but they work very well for camping and emergency situations.

Monoxide is always a risk, though the radiant propane heaters aren't nearly as bad as kerosene heaters. None of them are supposed to be used indoors or in a sealed cabin. I always made a point of keeping some air flow going.

I've used a lot of portable kerosene heaters and they're far superior to propane when temps. get below zero. Down towards twenty below portable propane outfits cease to produce much functional heat, and at thirty and forty below the propane starts to thicken up in the line. I remember trying to make hot dog food on what was usually a high-powered propane tripod one night when temps got to about 42 below zero. The burner could ordinarily boil fifteen gallons of water in a matter of minutes. But as the cold got deeper the propane slowed to a trickle and lost ground against the air. I ended up having to build a teepee structure around both the tripod and the propane canister so it could warm itself up. The dog food was eventually ready at about 9 AM after an entire night of work! But I digress. The down side to kerosene heaters is that they churn out a lot of smoke, esp. as their wicks get old. Also, they're a good deal larger than the portable propane heaters. In the end, given the fact that temps rarely reach ten below in Anchorage, I've gone with propane.

Electric heaters suck up a ton of juice and are impractical to run off small generators.

In a pinch a fifty gallon drum filled with disaster debris and soaked in diesel or kerosene will produce heat in any weather on the planet. Just shoot some holes in it to allow for air flow.

Availability may differ, but at least up here propane is a lot easier to get in bulk than white gas. Frankly I'm not a big fan of the white gas/naptha/coleman fuel. It's great for camping but if you need to produce a lot of heat in a disaster it's both extremely expensive and burns too explosively. Kerosene or diesel are a lot better when you're needing to make a lot of heat quickly. You can pour diesel over a pile of wet wood and have a nice fire without worrying about explosions or the gas just burning off without impacting the wood.
 
+1 re diesel and fire.

excellent point also about the LARGE propane tanks. my base camp stove runs off of a 5 gal propane tank with a two-burner stove. righteous. one can cook gormet meals for 100's on those.

i just thought we were talking serious, low weight bug out. (Earthquake and all).

but, yeah, i guess in an earthquake, if the roads are all cracked up and there's no egress out of town, i'm with cosmoline: gimme a large propane and lots and lots of beans, rice, polenta, some fresh meat (fish are great; squirrels are good, but any rodent will work) and oil.

did i mention the oil?
 
They have been Alaska tested and approved for generations. IIRC from an article I read a few years ago, Alaska is the main consumer of the product but some are also sold in NW specialty food stores.

Its also available at chain grocery stores in Seattle (namely QFC (kroger)).

I would suggest a nice multifuel stove that will run on white gas or kerosine/diesel. They make them for backpackers in some very small sizes.

I understand your desire to avoid foods that require cooking but with a small stove and a pound or two of beans/rice you could increase the amount of food your carrying by a good margin without too much increased weight. Even the ounce-shaving backpackers/mountainclimbers around here find it more effecient to cook food than to bring ready-made.

Suggested source for all the lightweight camping gear you could imagine : http://www.rei.com/ (use this to compare, shop around for the best price).
 
Oil is vital, absolutely. I'm a big fan of high-fat foods for emergency kits in general. Low fat, lean stuff is for civilization. It burns when you try to cook it and doesn't really fuel you very well. Crisco is good for coating pans, as is lard.

Another nice item is corn meal. It's a lot easier to cook than dried rice and you can boil it, fry it, bake it or whatever. In the old days corn meal was a standard item for pioneers, hunters, gold miners, soldiers etc. The old Indian corn bread or "sloosh" can be made using corn meal and whatever fatty stuff and bits of things you have on hand, then fried in cakes or roasted over flames.

Why not beans and rice? Simply put, I'm not preparing to go backpacking. Water is at a premium--much more so than food. I don't want to waste water soaking beans or cooking rice. Oats have as high a calorie base as either beans or rice and aren't as thirsty or nearly as tricky to prepare. Also, beans and rice are time consuming. I want to be able to get to food quickly, not have to worry about soak times or fuss over a stove trying to keep the mix from burning as both rice and beans are prone to do. If you're a fan of beans, CANNED beans with water and extra fat added are the way to go. Dried beans would be a nightmare to try to prepare in a SHTF situation when you have so many other things to worry about.

With my current kit, I can boil water in a matter of minutes and mix it with the oats and whatever else I want in there. Within five to ten minutes I can have a hot meal jam packed with calories. I have protein from the canned meats. That's all I need as far as good goes. I assume I'll need to spend the rest of my time assisting, fleeing, or figuring out what to do.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top