My first attempt at Forging

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BRad704

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I started with a piece of 5160, 1/4" thick, about 1x5 (or so)...

Using a rosebud on our cutting torch, heated it up to orange and used a 5lb hammer to work it out. As I was hammering, I began to understand how different angles and different strikes were moving the metal differently, and what I got is actually just what I was going for.

HT was done again with the torch, and once it was non-magnetic, quenched in vegetable oil. Tempered 2 - 90 minute cycles at 375F. This blade might not pass the ABS test, but it was a great proof of concept for me. :)

Now I have to decide how to finish the handle for it. I am thinking a cherry wood that mirrors the curve of the blade, and using a copper wire wrap at the top and bottom of the handle as an accent.

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My uploads from my phone aren't working too well, so I'll add the other pics as soon as I can... About 15 minute on a 220 belt will have the blade ready to sharpen, and I am leaving as much "character" as I can in this blade...

Ok, finally got more pics uploaded. I know I need to walk the edge to the left just a little toward the bottom, but I'm extremely pleased with my first attempt.

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Distal taper... :D
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It is humbling and exciting and extremely rewarding all at the same time... I even have a busted lip to show for my efforts (and lack of proper PPE)...
 
Forge on Brad!!! It looks 110% better than my first knife! Understanding how the steel moves when heated and being struck by a hammer is a learning process that will come as you get more knives under your belt. I look forward to some finished shots of the knife.:)
 
^^ Thanks, me either... :)

^ Thank you very much... after watching your forging thread, I HAD to try it out for myself. I have to say, that was probably my biggest inspiration to get out there and go for it. :)

this was just a small first shot at it, and I think I'll stick with really small pieces for now. At least until I can get a decent 2-brick built.

I've got to get some better hammers also. The one I was using was way too big and I was trying too hard on each strike.
 
Good job !

I am a forging disaster so I stick to stock reduction.

Then again maybe one more try might convert me.

Either way I envy your energy and talent.
 
4.5lb straight peening hammer, rosebud tip on a cutting torch, and a full sized frame-machine for an anvil... :) my parents own a body shop...
 
Overlap your hammer blows 30% and you'll have better luck at keeping the unevenness out of the surface. Also, look at the face of your hammer and feel the face with your palm. It should be nearly flat with a very slight curvature. The edges should be rounded as well. This way when you strike hot metal it is slightly more forced away from the center of the face of the hammer without dimpling the metal. Strike so that the face hits flat and avoid rolling or tilting to keep the side of the hammer from "gouging" the surface. Stand close to the work and keep the elbow of your gripping hand solidly tucked into your side.
 
Thanks... I know I left the face pretty boogered-up, but that was sorta my intention. I wanted this one to look truely forged and sharpened, instead of sanding/filing all the strikemarks out of it...

In the future, I plan to keep some of the forged character, but NOT make the big divots anymore...
 
That is what my first blade would have looked like had I done it all by myself. Mine ended up looking more like a spoon than a blade :D. If you are truly interested in forging your own blades you need to learn from the BEST. Believe me. One week of expert tutelage will literally save you years of mostly wasted effort.

If you use a cutting torch you are going to lose carbon in the process. Furthermore, some materials are very very sensitive and require even distribution of heat during forging. Torch is OK for heat treating, but forging a blade... not so good.

As you probably know, your tang needs work. I usually start with the tang and once it is finished move to forge the blade. Typical puukko has a tapered tang and blade. The strongest (thickest) part of the knife should be where the blade meets the tang (makes fitting bolsters a lot easier). Also, I don't know if you were going for a curved blade, or was the result an accident. You can make a straight blade by forging the spine of the blade first and the edge after that. I am sure you noticed how the blade curved as you were beating the edge to it? If you start with the spine the blade will curve in the other direction first, but it will straighten when you beat the edge.

What HSO said about correct technique with the hammer is extremely important. You might want to practice by hammering a piece of wood, for example. When you strike let your hammer do the work = you lift the hammer and almost let it fall by it self. Also, you keep your shoulder directly above the object you are working on. You do not need to use a lot of force.
 
THIS is why I posted this here... :) I LOVE getting the advice of people who really know their stuff! :) Thanks guys!!!
 
Looks great!

You didn't exactly pick the easiest steel in the world to forge with ;)

1080 and 1084 are a little more forgiving, if you want to play with some let me know and I can give you a couple of sources that sell small quantities.

Until you get a different heating method (if you plan to) I would pick up a couple of Tempilstik's. They are a great gauge for keeping track of your temperatures & available up to 2000 degrees (just under where you should forge 5160). MSC & McMaster carry them for about $4 each last I checked.

Ideally you should start hammering about 2200 degrees and stop about 1700 to be safe. Above and you are burning off carbon and below you are introducing stress by forging cold and can get a lot of microfractures.

For best heat treat normalize the blade 3 times, I usually start by bringing it up to about 1300 and let it air cool, then 1200 and air cool, then one more time for good measure to 1200 with an air cool. This will remove forging stress in the steel. Then move on to heat treat.

I generally start with a big hammer for getting the shape down and then finish off with progressively smaller hammers to smooth things out. But I'm with you, I love the rough forged look and probably leave 1/2 of the forged knives I make with some scale and hammer marks.

Keep up the great work!
 
I'm slowly dropping hints to my wife about how much fun this was and how I want to get more into it in the future... Eventually, she'll just tell me to go get what I need so she doesn't have to hear about it anymore. :)

the cool thing about this 5160 I got is that the surface is still rough. A bowie I am working on now is going to be NOT flat ground, so that the rough finish shows on the flats, much like a very smooth forged blade. I like to think of it as using the aesthetics that are already there...
 
I really like the style of that blade, especially with the forge marks and the thick tang. I can't wait to see the finished product!
 
If your anywhere near Atl Ga you're welcome to come by my shop sometime and play
Click to expand...

I feel like Michael Jordan just asked me to come over and shoot some hoops at his house... :D

I like the idea of making her something. I am pretty limited on shapes (i think) by not having an anvil, but I'm sure I am resourceful enough to come up with something in due time...
 
Brad, check out this forum. http://www.iforgeiron.com/ It is mostly blacksmithing but there is a section on knifemaking. There is also a sub-forum on and about anvils. You will find lots of information about anvils including types, sources and alternatives to the traditional type. They also have sub-forums about forges....basically just about anything that has to do with forging...including knifemaking.
 
Cherrywood 3-finger handle, copper wire wrap. I'll make a sheath for it once I get some more leather...

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Very nice, Brad!
Two thoughts:
1.Your second knife will look even better.
2.If you build yourself a small forge, the work will go faster.
 
I am a heavy equipment mechanic in Alaska and I had some new Timken bearings on a shelf for over 10 years for a bucket loader that has since been scrapped, huge thick roller bearing race.

Just tinkering around with a torch a home made anvil and a lot of hammering I managed to get it straight and get the curl out of it. Somebody told me its 52100 steel, even orange hot this stuff was a bear to bend and hammer.

Made an awesome knife about 16" long, the handle was two pieces of half inch thick T6 aluminum that I mig welded while it was heavily clamped around the tang, and then I ground down the shape to fit my hand. Its shiny, its heavy, its not a machete yet not a bowie style.

What I really want to do is to make a real forge and build a hammer press, make my own katana swords.
 
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