My first casting session/ questions ???

[lordgroom]

I had my first casting session on Saturday night. Actually I did cast a handful at a friends house about a month ago as he was showing me the ropes. He casts two 2-gang lyman molds at a time. He uses locking handles (from Buffalo Arms, they are awesome) pours, puts it down, picks up the other mould, opens the sprue by hand (without using a mallet), drops the bullets, pours into that mold, puts it down, starts with the other mould. Things went well when I was working with him. I have to check my notes when I get home from work but I think the temperature was in the 700 degree range.

My session, I started at about 700 degrees. I had one Lyman mould with locking handles (the same as my friend) and I had a Lee 2-gand mould in .358 Tumble Lube. Things didn’t go so well. Almost all of the .358 bullets were wrinkled. I increased the temperature of the pot (an RCBS bottom pour) to 750, then 800, then as high as 825. Some of the .358’s came out better. The Lyman seemed to be producing “frosty bullets”. Can’t say I have ever seen one.

I put down the Lyman mould and cast more quickly with the Lee mould and things seemed better. Since it was at night I could not inspect as I was doing it. I had plenty of light to cats and could do a rough inspection but culled obvious re-melts and did a more thorough inspection when I finished the casting session. I surmised that the Lee and Lyman moulds needed different pot temperatures to be effective and I also assumed the Lee cooled more quickly and could not be put down.

Here are my questions
1- Are my assumptions about speed of cooling with Lee versus Lyman moulds correct (lee cools more quickly and needs a faster pace than the Lyman)

2- What is the temperature everyone uses to cast with a Lyman mould and with a Lee Mould?

3- When using Lee does anyone use more than one mould? I know this technique works with 2 Lyman moulds, because I did it.

4- Can someone post a picture of a frosted bullet.

5- I was not able to open the sprue on the Lee by hand. I needed a mallet every time. Is this normal? On the Lyman after reaching temperature the sprue opens easily.

I realize one solution is to buy 4 gang and 6 gang moulds, but just learning I was advised to “cut my teeth” on single and double cavity moulds.

Before you mention it, I do plan to list this on castboolits forum, but don’t want to visit that site from my work computer, this is New Jersey after all.

Thanks in advance

 

[mechdriver]

The lee aluminium molds will cool faster. It sounds like you were not up to temp. on the lee. I have used lee 2 bangers a good bit but am no expert. I do have some lee 6 hole molds and am learning that they are temp. finicky.
next chance you get, try just your lee and once you get it to temp. I'm sure it will make good boolits. And yes I always have to use a mallet to cut the sprue on my lee molds.

 

[cracked butt]

1- Are my assumptions about speed of cooling with Lee versus Lyman moulds correct (lee cools more quickly and needs a faster pace than the Lyman)

Tehy also heat up faster than the Lyman mould. If they get two hot, touch the closed blocks to a wet towel (away from your pot) to draw some of the heat out of them.

5- I was not able to open the sprue on the Lee by hand. I needed a mallet every time. Is this normal?

Yes, I use a wooden hammer handle to cut the sprue. On the 6-cavity moulds, you get a lot more leverage and they open relatively easy.

 

[scrat]

Agree on what both members said. Lee molds heat up faster. once my mold is to temp you dont adjust the temp of the mold to satisfy the mold. i usually leave it at number 7. here is what i do.

set up everything put the lead in the pot. put temp full blast. put the mold on top of the pot. once the lead is to temp i flux it out. Then i pour a quick set. I open the mold sideways to see the bullet. if its wrinkled not filling out, sprue very hard to open i dump the bullet and put the corner of the mold into the lead for a few seconds. Then cast some more bullets putting the lead from the sprue and the bullets right back into the pot. Once i see the bullets filling out i know im good. Another clue is sprue plate. when a two gang lee mold is at the right temp it doesnt take that hard of a whack to open the sprue. Now when you go to open the sprue and it opens up no problem the mold is too hot. i DO NOT USE A WET RAG. i have a 1 foot square piece of pine. i simply place the mold on the piece of pine and let it coold down naturally. Using water can warp the molds.

 

[243winxb]

There is no set temperature to cast at, different temp for different alloys. To heat the Lyman fast the pot is set at maximum temp,then lowered. A frosted bullet will loose bullet diameter, not a problem if its not undersize. The sprue opens easily on the Lyman because the alloy is hotter in the mould. Most all need a tap, if the alloy is to hot in the mould you will leave a litte hole in the base, not good. I would NOT use a wet towel on the mould. 3 things are important 1 Use a good lube. 2 Make sure the bullet fills out completely. 3 The bullet has to be the correct diameter. Undersize bullets dont shoot or load well.

 

[RustyFN]

2- What is the temperature everyone uses to cast with a Lyman mould and with a Lee Mould?

I only have a Lyman mold and I cast around 790 degrees. I have the 10 pound bottom pour and if I add a two foot piece of 95/5 solder ( 95% tin & 5% antimony ) the lead will flow a lot better in the mold.

5- I was not able to open the sprue on the Lee by hand.

I can't open it by hand on my Lyman either, I use a wooden mallet to open the sprue plate. I bought a four gang mold so I wouldn't need to run two molds at a time and it makes bullets fast enough for me just using the one mold.
Rusty

 

[lordgroom]

RustyFN, actually I can open my Lyman by hand...easily. I have an extended Spure cutter that works well. I have to hit the sprue of the Lee several times with my plastic stick to open it. The plastic stick also came from Buffalo Arms and does not splinter like wooden mallets.