My First Hunting Rifle - What else do I need?

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Thanks Davemb! That is exactly what I am looking for! I didn't want to spend the $80 for the Galco Safari Ching Sling, but it looks that does the same thing and is in webbing instead of leather and brass!

Thanks Again!
 
NelsErik;

Do take a look at the Turner Saddlery slings. They're all 1.25" military type slings of truly excellent quality. If you get one, you won't be disappointed.

T'were me, I'd sell the scope & replace it with something that had a 40 to 44mm objective lens. Stay with Leupold, go to Zeiss, try a Nikon Monarch, they're all good glass in the same quality range as what you currently have. I do believe the rifle will balance better, and your dad can be seen with it.

Don't be afraid to try some other bullets too. The common garden-variety Sierra GameKings, Speer Hot Cores, & Hornady products have been killing elk for decades without charging Nosler's arm & a leg to do so. Your gun may like one of them better, won't know till ya try.

900F
 
900F, I had thought of that. After looking through the VX-2 3-9x33mm Ultralight and then looking through this scope with the 50mm objective there is no way that I am going back. That huge 50mm objective collects a lot of light and almost seems like you are using a flashlight or something.

TexasPatriot.308, I have plenty of other rifles, but none of them are suitable for hunting with unless you are talking about prairie dogs or some other varmint. I have shot several coyotes with my 6BR, but that gun weighs over 18 pounds full rigged.
 
Well, a hunting rifle needs a good trigger, a good sighting arrangement, a sling and, if it's my shoulder in question, a good pad if it kicks much more than a 7 pound .308.

IIRC, Browning puts pretty decent triggers in their guns these days, so you're probably covered there.

That's not the sighting arrangement that I'd choose, but it's your money. High power variables are heavier, bulkier, and more expensive. If they were an aid to good shooting, they might be worth it, but in my experience, they're just the opposite. The high zoom makes targets look so close that it's tempting to take shots that one shouldn't. Additionally, it magnifies the movement in one's hold, which contributes to jerking the trigger, trying to get it while it's "on," rather than squeezing through as one should. After all, elk aren't small targets. A fixed 4x will make a 500 yard shot look like 125, and that's iron sight range. Astronomy scopes belong on varmint rigs and precision rifles, but they're unnecessary or even detrimental on a hunting rifle, IMHO.

I use a Ching Sling, myself, and find the three minutes it takes to mount an extra swivel eminently worthwhile. Failing that, those loops from rifleslinger look like just the ticket.

Given that there's an M in WSM, I'd probably swap out the factory pad for a Limbsaver or Pachmayr.

Otherwise, make sure it's not too long in the stock, that it mounts naturally, practice a bunch, then go bag an elk!

Sent from my C771 using Tapatalk 2
 
The rifle does look a little top heavy with that scope. It wouldn't feel balanced to me.

As for scope covers I really favor the see-through ones. Its nice to not have to worry about them if a sudden shot is needed. Generally there is plenty of time to remove them but you never know when hunting.
 
NelsErik;

Another thought just came to me concerning your scope & a comment recently made. If that's a 4.5-14X, then it's also an A/O, right? In my experience just about anything from anybody that's above 12X is A/O. If so, now you have another variable that can work against you in a hunting situation.

If the scope isn't focused correctly for the distance at which the game appears, you don't get a clear view. In the time it takes to focus & get that clear view, Mr. Elk may very well decide to move on. Or, you take a shot with a fuzzy sight picture. I don't have a centerfire big game hunting scope over 10X & refuse to have an A/O on a big game rig. Varmint rifles, oh sure, high X numbers & A/O on more than one. But not where that variable can work against me.

900F
 
The rifle doesn't really have a balance issue, at least to me. It is heavier than the Savage that I originally bought though. My Savage was s simple fix and is suppose to be getting shipped back to me so I might use it instead.

I hadn't considered the Adjustable Objective and it hasn't been an issue in my shooting exercises. With the Noslers this rifle is no where near as accurate as my others, but I can still hit the gong at 400, 500, and 600 yards and I don't intend to take a shot anywhere near 600, more like 300 max. This scope does not have the side parallax adjustment like on my Premier Reticle bench-rest scope. Once I have my cheek weld and eye relief set the scope stays in focus. It is Leupold Model 66695.
 
Quote: "Get a nice shooting stick if you'll be shooting long distances out west and practice with it."

Best advice. Keep your rifle simple and free of items that will keep you from getting off a fast well aimed shot. Hunting is not target shooting. You need to be able to walk with a shouldered rifle and be able to quickly set down with a shooting stick and get off an accurate shot within 10 seconds or less. If you can't do that you need to practice with your equiptment until you can make it work.
 
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