thunderbyrd
Member
Text to follow.
My first lever action rifle - 30-30
- Thread starter thunderbyrd
- Start date
Text to follow.
thunderbyrd
Member
My father just gave me this rifle. he left it in his truck for a couple of years. then he thought it had been stolen, but we found it in a gun case in the back of a closet today. my mom has a talent for hiding things. she could hide a tractor in a drawer.
so you can see, i got a bunch of rust to deal with. i showed this to the most excellent owner of my LGS and he gave me some fine steel wool, told me to soak it with gun oil and rub the rust away. he also showed me how the safety works on it.
this is a winchester model 94 30-30, made in new haven, conn. i do not know much about it. i don't even know how many rounds it holds. my dad might have shot it twice while he had it. the 1st 3 numbers in the serial# are 402. i'd apreciate any knowledge about this rifle anyone has to share. i need to know if it would be possible for me to "field strip" and clean this gun or if i should have a professional do it.
thanks!
so you can see, i got a bunch of rust to deal with. i showed this to the most excellent owner of my LGS and he gave me some fine steel wool, told me to soak it with gun oil and rub the rust away. he also showed me how the safety works on it.
this is a winchester model 94 30-30, made in new haven, conn. i do not know much about it. i don't even know how many rounds it holds. my dad might have shot it twice while he had it. the 1st 3 numbers in the serial# are 402. i'd apreciate any knowledge about this rifle anyone has to share. i need to know if it would be possible for me to "field strip" and clean this gun or if i should have a professional do it.
thanks!
Pat Riot
Contributing Member
Cool! You now have a great project gun! It will hold 5 rounds of 30-30.
Your rifle looks very much like something that happened to my Winchester 94AE carbine. I took a friend on a week long salmon fishing trip. He said his cooler didn’t leak. He was wrong!
Anyway, rather than do the old WD40 and 4 Ought steel wool wipe down I opted for Cerakote in Military Olive Green.
I missed one pin.
Here are your disassembly and reassembly instructions.
Good Luck and I truly hope you get this rifle running. You’re going to like it very much, I predict.
Your rifle looks very much like something that happened to my Winchester 94AE carbine. I took a friend on a week long salmon fishing trip. He said his cooler didn’t leak. He was wrong!
Anyway, rather than do the old WD40 and 4 Ought steel wool wipe down I opted for Cerakote in Military Olive Green.
I missed one pin.
Here are your disassembly and reassembly instructions.
Good Luck and I truly hope you get this rifle running. You’re going to like it very much, I predict.
milemaker13
Member
1973
thunderbyrd
Member
thank you much for the info. i looked at the link, not only no, but hell no, i'm not going to take it apart! i mean, sure, i could get it apart. but putting it back together, uh, not so much.
as far as i know, it will shoot as it is right now. i bought a box of bullets and i will try it out in a couple of days.
There isn't any collector value to that generation of 94's. I'd lightly knock the surface rust off using 0000 Steel wool and some oil. Rub gently and try to not remove any more of the bluing than you have to. I'd clean and oil it as thoroughly as possible without disassembly and shoot it. The 20" carbine should hold 6+1. The Trappers with shorter barrels held fewer rounds.
You may decide to go with one of the coatings, but don't rush into it. Shoot it for a while 1st.
You may decide to go with one of the coatings, but don't rush into it. Shoot it for a while 1st.
Pat Riot
Contributing Member
Alright, then may I recommend that you get a can of Hornady One Shot CLP and flush the internals with it working the action. Shoot it into the works at various points then let it sit for a couple hours. Then do a good bore cleaning.
If you are up to it I would try pulling the butt stock when you flush the internals.
I like Hornady One Shot CLP, but there are other choices. Lucas CLP and Break Free CLP, for example.
Old Hobo
Member
OK, so it's rusted on the outside. How does it look on the inside areas that can be seen?
Does the action cycle. If so, is it easily cycled or difficult to cycle?
How does the bore and chamber look? Is there any pitting? If you can't see the rifling due to fouling, then clean it with a cleaning rod with bristle brush attachment. Also take out the magazine spring (you can find instructions online; watch a video) and see what condition the spring is in and how the magazine tube looks.
If its just a matter of external rusting then do the steel wool and oil treatment to get what you can off of it. Since it's no collector, you can attempt to re-blue it. Re-blueing products are available at your gun store. These products are far less than perfect, yet this provides some protection and makes the metal look better. Before you attempt to re-blue this puppy, you MUST get ALL of the oil off the metal or it won't take. De-oiling products are also available at your gun shop.
The rifle's lack of worth does not justify having a professional re-blueing job done on it. Too much money.
When disassembling, do NOT use a regular screwdriver with a wood-screw tip. Only use metal tip type screwdrivers, else you'll strip the slot on the head of these metal screws (wood screw threads have a much slower pitch). Instructions you can find online.
If there is significant pitting and rusting internally, take the rifle to a gun smith. It's not likely, yet there could be safety issues with this firearm, thus have it looked-over by a professional. Personally speaking, I want to keep my fingers and eyes -- they've been rather useful to me over the decades.
Let's say all goes well and you get a usable rifle out of this; from now on, when storing the rifle, make sure it's kept away from moisture. If storing it in a safe, have a heater rod inside the safe so that there will be no precipitation on metal surfaces. If you live in a particularly wet climate area, there's a lot to be said for wrapping a weapon with lightly oiled rags. A stack, or certainly a 55 gal barrel, of oily rags can self-combust. You also don't want the wooden stock to soak-up too much oil.
.
Does the action cycle. If so, is it easily cycled or difficult to cycle?
How does the bore and chamber look? Is there any pitting? If you can't see the rifling due to fouling, then clean it with a cleaning rod with bristle brush attachment. Also take out the magazine spring (you can find instructions online; watch a video) and see what condition the spring is in and how the magazine tube looks.
If its just a matter of external rusting then do the steel wool and oil treatment to get what you can off of it. Since it's no collector, you can attempt to re-blue it. Re-blueing products are available at your gun store. These products are far less than perfect, yet this provides some protection and makes the metal look better. Before you attempt to re-blue this puppy, you MUST get ALL of the oil off the metal or it won't take. De-oiling products are also available at your gun shop.
The rifle's lack of worth does not justify having a professional re-blueing job done on it. Too much money.
When disassembling, do NOT use a regular screwdriver with a wood-screw tip. Only use metal tip type screwdrivers, else you'll strip the slot on the head of these metal screws (wood screw threads have a much slower pitch). Instructions you can find online.
If there is significant pitting and rusting internally, take the rifle to a gun smith. It's not likely, yet there could be safety issues with this firearm, thus have it looked-over by a professional. Personally speaking, I want to keep my fingers and eyes -- they've been rather useful to me over the decades.
Let's say all goes well and you get a usable rifle out of this; from now on, when storing the rifle, make sure it's kept away from moisture. If storing it in a safe, have a heater rod inside the safe so that there will be no precipitation on metal surfaces. If you live in a particularly wet climate area, there's a lot to be said for wrapping a weapon with lightly oiled rags. A stack, or certainly a 55 gal barrel, of oily rags can self-combust. You also don't want the wooden stock to soak-up too much oil.
.
herrwalther
Member
- Joined
- May 1, 2013
- Messages
- 8,130
Ugh I hate you. I never find cool things like that around my folks. Downside of being raised by anti parents.
Rust on the outside is minor and would be easy to get off. The oil and 0000 steel wool is a not so greatly held secret that will get off nearly all surface rust. That will let you know if you have any pitting underneath to worry about. Winchester lever guns are famously (or infamously) known for being harder to take apart compared to Marlins or Henrys. But they can be done if you have the right screwdrivers and patience. If you aren't too handy, a gunsmith with some room on their to do shelf would gladly do the work instead.
Rust on the outside is minor and would be easy to get off. The oil and 0000 steel wool is a not so greatly held secret that will get off nearly all surface rust. That will let you know if you have any pitting underneath to worry about. Winchester lever guns are famously (or infamously) known for being harder to take apart compared to Marlins or Henrys. But they can be done if you have the right screwdrivers and patience. If you aren't too handy, a gunsmith with some room on their to do shelf would gladly do the work instead.
NIGHTLORD40K
Member
Congratulations on the cool find.
Make sure to at least remove the wood before buffing off the rust. That steel wool will also do a number on the wood finish which looks to be pretty good still.
Make sure to at least remove the wood before buffing off the rust. That steel wool will also do a number on the wood finish which looks to be pretty good still.
How smoothly does it cycle. I have an older one that had collected a lot of dust and the oil inside was gummy. I took it apart and oiled it up and it’s slick and shoots well.
Taking them apart is easy, it’s reassembly that gets frustrating. The bolt and recoil block thingy are an Interesting solution to the lockup problem. There’s a trick to it and until you find it you can cuss a lot. That’s true of me and most guns or small engines. One trick I figured out for all the screws was to take a piece of scrap cardboard and draw an outline of the receiver then poke holes for each screw in their relative position.
Taking them apart is easy, it’s reassembly that gets frustrating. The bolt and recoil block thingy are an Interesting solution to the lockup problem. There’s a trick to it and until you find it you can cuss a lot. That’s true of me and most guns or small engines. One trick I figured out for all the screws was to take a piece of scrap cardboard and draw an outline of the receiver then poke holes for each screw in their relative position.
Pat Riot
Contributing Member
I am pretty sure cussing is part of the process.
Excellent recommendation. I have been doing this for years. Since the invention of the smart phone I also take pictures to help me remember how things were as well. BUT, I still use the cardboard pattern because quite often the photos just aren’t good enough.
Nice! I so wish that lever actions weren't so blasted expensive these days. I'd love to have one like that for a knock around truck/dirt bike gun. Just haven't been able to justify it when a good bolt action is so much cheaper.
Riomouse911
Member
Very cool!
Hopefully you can knock that rust off and there will still be some bluing left.
Since it isn’t a “pre 1964” 1894 the collector value is lower, but the guns still sell for more than you would think. Folks still want them, and they aren’t being made at an affordable price anymore, so it could be worth a bit of $$ should you decide to send it on down the road.
(It was your Dad’s, so I doubt it will be going anywhere.)
As the guys said, if you decide to do some disassembly buy a set of decent gunsmith screwdrivers so you don’t bugger up all of the screws. Hardware store screwdrivers have ruined a million fine guns over the decades, so don’t make the mistake so many of us made before we knew better.
Good luck! I have four 1894’s, three .30-30’s and a Trapper .44 Magnum, the 1894 is my favorite rifle
.
Stay safe..
Hopefully you can knock that rust off and there will still be some bluing left.
Since it isn’t a “pre 1964” 1894 the collector value is lower, but the guns still sell for more than you would think. Folks still want them, and they aren’t being made at an affordable price anymore, so it could be worth a bit of $$ should you decide to send it on down the road.
(It was your Dad’s, so I doubt it will be going anywhere.)
As the guys said, if you decide to do some disassembly buy a set of decent gunsmith screwdrivers so you don’t bugger up all of the screws. Hardware store screwdrivers have ruined a million fine guns over the decades, so don’t make the mistake so many of us made before we knew better.
Good luck! I have four 1894’s, three .30-30’s and a Trapper .44 Magnum, the 1894 is my favorite rifle
.Stay safe..
Someone made a BAD recommendation to attempt rebluing this Winchester...... DON'T. These post '64 model 94's use sintered metal for the reciever. If you use traditional bluing, it will turn the reciever purple. Again, DO NOT attempt to reblue the reciever of this classic Winchester.
Hokkmike
Member
Don't forget an "after" picture....
I know next to nothing about lever guns. I don't even have one. (I need to fix that.) That said, I know enough to know that a Winchester 94 in 30-30 falls into categories like "classic," or "quintessential." Maybe even "iconic."
Congratulations and enjoy!
doubleh
Member
You don't even need oil with 0000 steel wool, just light elbow grease. Enjoy your " thurty-thurty. It is kind of a classic. I have a saddle ring carbine that was made in 1919. The action is very smooth but it was shot with corrosive ammo, not cleaned well, and the bore is in poor condition. It had very little blue left so I removed that with steel wool. Paste wax has protected it's exterior for years.
herrwalther
Member
- Joined
- May 1, 2013
- Messages
- 8,130
I am not artistically inclined enough to do this and get the screws back in the correct place. My method is when taking out parts of lever guns, I put the screws that hold them in the receiver back through the holes of the part that hold them in the receiver. Hammer screw stays with the hammer, carrier screw stays with carrier and so on. I keep the part and their corresponding screws in various sized magnetic trays to keep things organized and from rolling off the bench.
thunderbyrd
Member
i was surprised to discover this is yet another J M Browning creation. had no idea he had designed a lever action rifle!
Pat Riot
Contributing Member
Check out this list of JMB’s guns.
Speedo66
Member
Exterior is just cosmetics, how is the bore?
Rex in OTZ
Member
- Joined
- Nov 29, 2019
- Messages
- 616
30 years ago I purchased a cardboard box full of barreled receiver and some parts of a model 64 Winchester.
In our corner of the Arctic NW Alaska, the condition and finish would win no beauty contests.
missing forend, magazine, bolt locking bars and loading gate parts.
over time I aquired sights, magazine, mag endcap, forewood, was able to use model 94 wincester internals for lever safety.
the overall outter finish was pitting and a huge gouge at the crown of the receiver ring.
what surprised me was the bore was like new.
no pits.
it was the most accurate 30/30 Id shot to date.
over time I foolishly traded it off as I thought I needed Barren tundra rifle needing more range than a 30/30 could afford.
I sold it in 1994 for $270
over the years I came into a qty of 30/30 ammo so went looking for another lever rifle and picked up a Marlin model 336 C.
I liked the slim lines of the winchester 64 with its svelt mag tube, pistol grip and its handy egronomics.
the Marlin is close but just does not scratch my 64 itch, worst was even with the microgroove rifling it does not feel like the old 64.
was it the length of pull?
sights were almost the same.
In the end I liquidated my last 30/30.
my next project was another box case of leveraction winchester a .308 model 88.
the leveraction that feels like a boltaction.
its querky but fills that leveraction nich and the range that the 30/30 cant reach.
In our corner of the Arctic NW Alaska, the condition and finish would win no beauty contests.
missing forend, magazine, bolt locking bars and loading gate parts.
over time I aquired sights, magazine, mag endcap, forewood, was able to use model 94 wincester internals for lever safety.
the overall outter finish was pitting and a huge gouge at the crown of the receiver ring.
what surprised me was the bore was like new.
no pits.
it was the most accurate 30/30 Id shot to date.
over time I foolishly traded it off as I thought I needed Barren tundra rifle needing more range than a 30/30 could afford.
I sold it in 1994 for $270
over the years I came into a qty of 30/30 ammo so went looking for another lever rifle and picked up a Marlin model 336 C.
I liked the slim lines of the winchester 64 with its svelt mag tube, pistol grip and its handy egronomics.
the Marlin is close but just does not scratch my 64 itch, worst was even with the microgroove rifling it does not feel like the old 64.
was it the length of pull?
sights were almost the same.
In the end I liquidated my last 30/30.
my next project was another box case of leveraction winchester a .308 model 88.
the leveraction that feels like a boltaction.
its querky but fills that leveraction nich and the range that the 30/30 cant reach.
