My first put precisionish build

Joined
Oct 17, 2020
Messages
355
Location
Minnesota
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OK so let me explain the title a little. A couple years ago I was at an auction and brought home a Remington 700 sps with 16.5 inch heavy barrel. I wasn't sure what I wanted to do with it so it sat while I pondered. I decided that since I paid $264 for the rifle its a great start for a project. I read reviews about the hogue stock it came with being great for hunting however off a bipod it was iffy. I decided that I wanted to make it an urban counter deer rifle. Seeing that it is already a compact rifle and wouldn't be shot past 2-300 yards. I know that the rifle is capable of 5-600 yards however, I don't have a place to shoot with that real-estate.

I was originally thinking of getting a McMillan MC3 deluxe Legend after seeing them know ebay. I choose to go with AB Arms Mod X gen3 chassis instead. This is way I didn't have to worry about bottom metal choices. I had the chassis ordered along with a folding adapter (because cool).

Once the action was put into the chassis I found that I couldn't keep the Leopold back country 20 moa scope base on the rifle it had to have their base installed in order to work with the forend. No problem, until I attempted to mount the scope. My rings where Warren Vapor low rings on a Bushnell dawn and dusk II 3X9×40 and with the new set up the bell made contact with the top rail. I am new to setting up this type of system and everything I had read said basically that is a no go.

I hadn't fired the rifle yet because I when the chassis came I hadn't figured out what kinda glass I wanted to put on it yet. So I hit my first actual snag in this adventure. I thought oh this should be easy I'll go with medium height rings. Only to find out that they still weren't tall enough. I really wanted to shoot this rifle now because what if it doesn't shoot as well as I want it to (I expect 1in or better at 100 yards)? So off to fleet farm I went in search of mini riser mounts. They did not have the .5 inch 3 slot risers I was hoping for so I got a full length 1 inch mount instead because I wanted to shoot this rifle. I got home and put the scope on the riser rail and the riser on the rifle. Wow doesn't that look effing goofy is all I could think.

I found out two things on a couple different outings with this set up. First I'm keeping the rifle. Second the current configuration has to go. The rifle shoots very well and i am lookibg forward to shooting it once i get it set up the with a muzzle brake, new scope mount/ring solution(this is where I am currently) and a bipod.

This is where I figured out that there is way more to this project then I anticipated. My first plan was to put a standard AR10 bird cage on the end of the barrel and call it good. That fell apart when I went shopping online a found out there is a lot of options. I landed on a muzzle device from Just the Tip Tactical due to their reviews, the promt knowledgeable email reply, and what a great name. If anyone has any experience with these brakes I would like to hear your take.

I'm stuck on what I want to do as fa as scope mounts and rings. I ordered a pair of 3 slot .5 inch risers but am wondering if I should ultimately go with a cantilever mount or some other one pice mount. Eventually I'm going to top this build off with a LPVO something in the 1-6× range.

Any advice is appreciated as this is my first rifle project (not the last) it has been an eye opener.
 
Looks awesome! (Except for the scope mounting, lol) Id stick with a 9X+ scope and a cantilever mount myself- 6X isnt enough for "precision" paper punching at 300YD, though adequate for deer, IMO.
"Urban Counter Deer Rifle" :D
 
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That scope mount needs to go ASAP!

Look up turkey necking as it applies to scopes.

You want to mount a scope as low as possible so that it's more in line with the bore axis.
 
I'm stuck on what I want to do as fa as scope mounts and rings. I ordered a pair of 3 slot .5 inch risers but am wondering if I should ultimately go with a cantilever mount or some other one pice mount.

Do the latter - get a one piece mount and rings such as those intended for AR’s. AR mounts are 1.4-1.6” tall over the rail, which is typically considered “extra high” or “AR height.” These are designed to elevate a 40-50mm objective lens over a handguard with a rail on top, which is what you’re applying here.

Don’t sweat the scope being high over the bore, it really doesn’t matter. The ONLY time that matters is when you’re shooting short range and trying to maximize your MPBR, and frankly, it’s nearly inconsequential even in that application, and even being higher can be advantageous.
 
With lower rings does that give me more scope adjustment? I'm just curious. I like the idea of the 20 moa mount due to the short barrel.
 
I like that chassis rig. For the ranges you're talking, you don't need a 20 MOA base or rings. A .308 will cover that with ease.

Hey, I have a set of Vortex Pro rings in a 1.54 height over rail. May be just what the doctor ordered for your rig. I can send them to you and if you like them, trade me something for them. If you don't like them, send 'em back. Message me if interested.
 
With lower rings does that give me more scope adjustment? I'm just curious. I like the idea of the 20 moa mount due to the short barrel.

No, the opposite. Taller rings give longer range access with less adjustment.

20moa is very rarely a bad idea. Not necessary for everyone, but not a detraction even for someone NOT shooting long range.
 
The last couple pieces are the buttstock and muzzle device. For a muzzle device since I'm not going to go the suppressed route. I'm going to try a Just the Tip Tactical .308 muzzle device. The stock is a toss up. I'm not sure which way to wwith it.
 
The last couple pieces are the buttstock and muzzle device. For a muzzle device since I'm not going to go the suppressed route. I'm going to try a Just the Tip Tactical .308 muzzle device. The stock is a toss up. I'm not sure which way to wwith it.

The Just The Tip brake looks like a pretty basic parallel fin port brake with a jam nut. Nothing special, maybe a bit expensive for what you’re getting, but it’ll reduce recoil. Not as much as you could, and maybe not even as much as you could for $90, but certainly at least better than bare muzzle.

For the stock, take a look at the XLR stock options. The C6 is awesome, but might not match the aesthetic you want. Their TR2 may be a very good option which would mate to that AB folding attachment and also avoid adding too much weight in the tail, since there’s not much weight in that 16” barrel in the front. Another lighter option which would fit with that folding adapter would be a Luth-AR MBA3.
 
Higher scope mounts give you a longer point blank range or PBR. That is because the point at which the bullets path intersects with the line of sight is further away on the downside of the arch of the bullets path because of the slightly great angle as the bullet leaves the barrel. But it also magnifies any error on scope mounting like cant.
 
One step closer to completing this project. I ordered the JT-360 from just the tip tactical (still makes my inner 12 year old self chuckle). I'll admit the company name is at least 30 percent of the reason. The rest is due to their excellent customer service. The brake should be hitting my mailbox this week.

I also fixed the scope mounting issue once again it will be temporary (I'm not sure I like it). I ordered (2) half inch 3 slot risers and put low rings on top of those. I screwed up and ordered unbranded mounts from eBay. Margaret looks way better, however I don't have the warm and fuzzies about the set up. I will be going with a one piece set up. The pawn shop close to my place has a Warne Vapor with 1inch rings that I'm going to pick up tomorrow. I'll post photos in a few days.
 
One step closer to completing this project. I ordered the JT-360 from just the tip tactical (still makes my inner 12 year old self chuckle). I'll admit the company name is at least 30 percent of the reason. The rest is due to their excellent customer service. The brake should be hitting my mailbox this week.

I also fixed the scope mounting issue once again it will be temporary (I'm not sure I like it). I ordered (2) half inch 3 slot risers and put low rings on top of those. I screwed up and ordered unbranded mounts from eBay. Margaret looks way better, however I don't have the warm and fuzzies about the set up. I will be going with a one piece set up. The pawn shop close to my place has a Warne Vapor with 1inch rings that I'm going to pick up tomorrow. I'll post photos in a few days.

Update: I decided that I will try a cantilever mount. I picked up a Warren Vapor MSR mount. I had to go to work before I could mount it to the rifle. Now I have read a couple different things bout this type of mount having to be mounted backwards on bolt actions. Any truth to that?
 
I have read a couple different things bout this type of mount having to be mounted backwards on bolt actions. Any truth to that?

Looking at your scope position relative to the receiver in your original photos - with the rear of the scope considerably behind the bolt shroud and the adjustment body nearly at the end of the picatinny rail, you MAY want to mount the cantilever backwards. Not a problem, and doesn’t affect anything at all if you use a 0moa, flat mount. BUT… it does look as though your adjustment body is just far enough forward of the end of the pic rail that you can get the rear ring in there behind it and still have proper eye relief in the scope.
 
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Semi complete. Waren Vapor MSR mount. So now just a new butt stock. Also gonna replace the bi pod with a utg recon.
 
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What exactly is proper eye relief?

You have to set your scope position on the rifle appropriately for your body, corresponding to the eye relief of the scope (how far behind the scope the designers intended for your eye to be, where the field of view will be full and focused) and corresponding to your own physical ergonomics. For example, I’m 5’10” with broad shoulders and a relatively thick chest, so I use a relatively short length of pull, and I have a VERY short neck, so my face is pretty far back on the stock, even with a short LOP. This means my scopes will typically be farther to the rear than those of most other guys. Some scopes will have longer or shorter eye reliefs, so they can move forwards or backwards in the receiver relative to where my face lands.

So you have to hold the rifle with the scope loose in the rings, close your eyes, put your head in a proper position, then open your eyes. If the scope is too close to your face, move it forward in the rings, and vice versa.

And which power do I set my relief to?

Typically, most scopes will have the smallest eyebox at their highest magnification, so I always use the highest magnification the scope offers.
 
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hold the rifle with the scope loose in the rings, close your eyes, put your head in a proper position, then open your eyes. If the scope is too close to your face, move it forward in the rings, and vice versa."

Should I move the mount first if it has room on the top rails then the scope of needed? I know it seems like a dumb question but I want to make sure I got it right. This project has been a lot of fun and definitely a learning experience. I appreciate all the feed back.
 
Should I move the mount first if it has room on the top rails then the scope of needed? I know it seems like a dumb question but I want to make sure I got it right. This project has been a lot of fun and definitely a learning experience. I appreciate all the feed back.

I can't say it's the only way or even the best but the way I adjust my scopes is to loosen the rings/mount and remove the top half of the scope rings, then get into the prone position and slowly move the scope back and forth on the rings until I get the eye relief set. If I run out of adjustment sliding back and forth I'll move the rings/mount to a different slot on the pic rail. Once I have that set, I'll tighten the rings to the pic rail and then the top of the rings while making sure the cross hairs are vertical. I use a plumb bob hanging from a door frame to verify that.
 
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