My first set of .30 carbine reloads are in the book.. a few things...

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xxxleafybugxxx

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So with my manual having arrived, and checking and double checking measurements, i'm comfortable where I'm at with shooting these first reloads.
but a few things..
The manual suggested the starting load with the powder I'm using (h110) to start with 14 grs. However, auto disc won't do exactly 14 grs, the closest I was able to get was belew the mark at about 13.6 grs, and above the mark at 14.4.
SO I settled with lower. I'm assuming it will be okay that my first set is a tad under what Lyman suggest as the starter load with 13.6-13.7 grs?

Secondly, the books measurements indicate the case width at the very tip of the brass should be .336. Mine were coming in at .333 and they all chambered fine. (am I okay here)

Thats are the only questions I have about this so far.. I'm set to shoot this weekend, so we will see how it goes!!!
thanks
 
The case mouth measurement may have been based on military brass, which will be slightly thicker. I wouldn't worry about that.
As far as being slightly below minimum........I have found that in many instances, for pure plinking rounds, it works just fine. I purposely start below minimum when working up a plinking load. If it reliably cycles the action, you are GTG. You can't know until you test it out.
It takes quite a bit below minimum typically to get down into squib load territory.
 
What are the specifics of the load, bullet weight, primer used, type of bullet?

Generally speaking, starting a little light on the powder charge isn't anything to worry about as long as the shooter is paying attention, and watching for squibs. A squib will quickly become a catastrophic event if not noticed before pulling the trigger on the next cartridge.

That said, of all powders out there, H110 / 296 is the one powder that can't be manipulated down, a little might not be terribly risky, but generally speaking it's not recommended. Though others may not agree, your reduction of .4 gr. is pretty significant, IMO. H110 relies on full house pressures to burn, other wise it acts very unpredictably, and is prone to squibs if not loaded as published. This is something that should have been outlined in the data.

H110 / 296 which are the same powder, require magnum primers, also something that should have been pointed out in the data.

I'm only bringing this to your attention as a precaution. I have been loading exclusively with H110 / 296 for all my magnum handgun cartridges for many years, therefore I am very familiar with it and how it acts. About all I can say, is keep yourself aware of any odd or light feeling recoil / sounding cartridges, make sure they clear the barrel. IMO, I would rather have loaded slightly above starting charge with H110, rather than below.

GS
 
I agree with gamestalker. I have spoken to customer service at Hodgdon twice about loading H110 and they do not recommend going below the minimum loads. One of the reps said that there was a built in tolerance for occasional light drops, but one should not intentionally load lighter than the load data indicates.

I have been using Rem 6 1/2 (standard small rifle) primers. I have heard the recommendation to use magnum or military primers to ensure complete ignition and to reduce the likelihood firing of out-of-battery. I will probably switch to one of these primers going forward.

I also agree that you should be especially careful with light loads that you don't get a bullet stuck in the bore.
 
The use of magnum primers for H110 is true when speaking of pistol rounds, not true for the 30 carbine when using rifle primers. A regular small rifle primer is roughly equal to a small pistol magnum primer. The data on Hodgdon's website bears this out.
 
The use of magnum primers for H110 is true when speaking of pistol rounds, not true for the 30 carbine when using rifle primers. A regular small rifle primer is roughly equal to a small pistol magnum primer. The data on Hodgdon's website bears this out.
Click to expand...


This was the only point I disagreed with gamestalker on as well. They are not quite equal but a small rifle primer is much closer to a magnum small pistol primer than a standard one, and at east one company, Winchester, does not even make small rifle magnum primers.


The powder charge should be okay, but like the others say, never load 110 below minimum, and 14.4 would have been just fine, and still well below max for a 100 or 110 bullet.
 
TimSr said:
This was the only point I disagreed with gamestalker on as well. They are not quite equal but a small rifle primer is much closer to a magnum small pistol primer than a standard one, and at east one company, Winchester, does not even make small rifle magnum primers.


The powder charge should be okay, but like the others say, never load 110 below minimum, and 14.4 would have been just fine, and still well below max for a 100 or 110 bullet.
Click to expand...

Same here. Otherwise great info from gamestalker.
 
I'm using h110, federal small rifle, Sierra 110 gr rn sp, and Remington brass. I have not fired any of them yet. If you are convinced that it could cause a squib, then I don't mind unloading all of them and starting it out at 14.4.
 
I'm using h110, federal small rifle, Sierra 110 gr rn sp, and Remington brass. I have not fired any of them yet. If you are convinced that it could cause a squib, then I don't mind unloading all of them and starting it out at 14.4.
Click to expand...


I highly doubt you'll have any problems as close as you are to minimum. It's not a sudden drop off point. Just something to keep in mind in the future. If for some reason you did have a squib, just stop and clear the bullet from the barrel before you fire another round, but I really, really doubt it.
 
I don't disagree at all with everyone's primer assessment, I some how missed that a SRP was being used, makes sense 30 carb and all, good catch guys. The SRP would certainly provide plenty of ignition.

GS
 
I use CCI small rifle primers for .30 carbine. I have a chrono and I try for 1950 to 2000 FPS. That seems to be the most accurate for me.
 
BDS showed a mod for the Lee disks using a machine screw in the side of a disk larger than you need. Moving the screw allows you to adjust the powder charge and you are using a disk size that you probably wouldn't be using anyway. (try the 1.02 or 1.09) You did not say what disks you used to get 13.6 and 14.4 but I am guessing .88 and .95.

You could put the screw in the 1.02 disk hole and still have the other two unmodified.

Another option mught be the double disk kit and use say maybe a .43 and a .49.
This adds up to .92 which should be about 14 or 14.1 grs.
Book VMD H110/296 =.06555
Disk/VMD=gr metered

As a side note if you want to find the VMD of your lot of powder
disk size/gr = VMD, your VMD will probably vary a bit from the listed VMD.
VMD*GR = disk size needed

Here it is
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?p=9318360#post9318360

VMD GR Disk Size
0.06555 13.4 0.87837
0.06555 13.5 0.884925
0.06555 13.6 0.89148
0.06555 13.7 0.898035
0.06555 13.8 0.90459
0.06555 13.9 0.911145
0.06555 14 0.9177
0.06555 14.1 0.924255
0.06555 14.2 0.93081
0.06555 14.3 0.937365
0.06555 14.4 0.94392
0.06555 14.5 0.950475

Standard Lee disk sizes
Disk 1 Disk 2 Disk 3 Disk 4
0.3 0.46 0.71 1.09
0.32 0.49 0.76 1.18
0.34 0.53 0.82 1.26
0.37 0.57 0.88 1.36
0.4 0.61 0.95 1.46
0.43 0.66 1.02 1.57

So with the double disk kit more combos are possible.
I have used the screw mod and it works well.
I will add the link when I find it.
Potatohead and others have referenced it.


Here's a pic
http://www.thehighroad.org/showthread.php?t=779716
 
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I don't wish to start an argument over primers, and I know that this topic has been discussed in other threads, but does anyone have concerns with using Federal primers in this application?
 
Can't say it for a fact but a lot of people seem to say Federals are more sensitive and therefore more prone to slam fires in firearms with floating fireing pins. I have used a bunch of the Tula
KVB556M KVB556M SMALL RIFLE MAGNUM, use 5.56 NATO
primers in my Mini 14 and AR with no issues yet.
They tend to be a little bit cheaper than other primers so that dosen't hurt either.
 
I really could say with any experience, as to Federal primers, but it's been discussed that they are more sensitive, and therefore may be more prone to slam fires in this type of application. I do know some guys who say don't use them in this type of application though.

GS
 
xxxleafybugxxx said:
S
The manual suggested the starting load with the powder I'm using (h110) to start with 14 grs. However, auto disc won't do exactly 14 grs, the closest I was able to get was belew the mark at about 13.6 grs, and above the mark at 14.4.
SO I settled with lower. I'm assuming it will be okay that my first set is a tad under what Lyman suggest as the starter load with 13.6-13.7 grs?
Click to expand...

I didn't see this mentioned so I thought I would. Lee makes an adjustable charge bar to replace the disks. I use it in situations like you describe.

http://leeprecision.com/adj-charge-bar.html
 
I have an Iver Johnson 30 carbine that I never trusted
I have been loading 12.5 gr H110 ( mag primer)for years--works fine
My oldest took it out one day & used my pistol loads-15 gr H110 ( mag primers)- no problems-surprised me------------------:eek:
 
I'm using 10 grns of h110 under a 120 and 130 grain lead bullets with great results. You're not going to have any problems with squibs based on a such a slightly reduced powder amount.
 
Don't use auto disc when working up loads. Use a scale. And do not go below minimum when loading anything.
One grain probably won't cause anything bad, but below minimum loads can detonate the powder vs it burning. Creates weird pressures and can be as dangerous as above max loads.
You'll likely find IMR4227 gives better accuracy than H110 too. Tried H110 long ago. IMR4227 is better.
 
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