My grandfathers auto-fake

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Need to know, at least:
What ammunition is being shot.
When fired, does it successfully extract and eject a shell?
How the recoil spring and friction components are arranged.

For that last, a photo of the recoil spring - not compressed.
These are merely examples and yours need not be set up this way. There are at least three alternative set-ups.

Todd

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Barrel stuck back. Could be debris. Could be over travel, weak spring., incorrect spring set up for shell.
Not feeding. Are the shells coming through the magazine? Shell lift not functioning.
Need more detailed info..
 
The spring is set like pos 2 and it was firing light loads it hasn't done that before or since so I'm not overly worried about the barrel getting stuck back yet

The shell lift isn't lifting high enough is the issue as pictured the bolt comes back and hits the shell into the side of the barrel

Or it sometimes just gets stuck and a slight touch to the lift gets everything moving again

the shells are coming from the tube which does occasionally drop the rounds when it's not supposed to
 
The first step with any old gun like that is to get it disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and all the parts inspected. If you're not comfortable doing it yourself maybe you have a local 'smith that can work on it for you.

I have a pre-1911 Remington, made in 1907 when they were called the Remington Autoloading Shotgun. There is a leather buffer riveted to the back of the receiver to cushion the bolt during cycling and mine was badly degraded so I had it completely apart to replace it with a newly made fiber buffer.

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Pic of the new fiber buffer inside receiver:

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Folks above have done a great job explaining the arrangement of the recoil spring for different loads. It is a very old but unique design, in which both the barrel and bolt travel rearward during recoil while locked together. At the end of the recoil stroke they unlock and the bolt stays to the rear and the barrel travels forward until the empty shell is ejected, then a new shell is positioned on the carrier and the bolt then drives it back into the barrel for the next shot.
 
I am aware of how the gun works that's what got my interest in the first place I thought it was cool because it operates a bit like a .50 and I was a .50 gunner in the military

Anyway its put together from 2 different guns and I have used both carrier springs
 
I am aware of how the gun works that's what got my interest in the first place I thought it was cool because it operates a bit like a .50 and I was a .50 gunner in the military

Anyway its put together from 2 different guns and I have used both carrier springs

Only other thing I can think of is the polish of the bolt face and ramp/entrance to chamber.
 
I read a bunch of stuff. Never found an exact repeat of shell being trapped at bolt and receiver. Lots of mag spring replacement that solve cycling issues. I have read about issues of clambering having to to do with the rim of the case gets slowed down/caught on rough bolt face and or other rough areas that the shell should simply slide on. I ran into this myself with a small 22 auto. Once I disassembled it and polished every surface the shell could contact durring cycling it shot and still shoots as fast as you can squeeze them off. The carrier doesnt necessarily lift the shell up level and depends on the bolt to jockey it in place. Even with rifles the bolt only catches a portion of the rim and there is some angle up to chambered.
In your case I can't see a mag spring being a problem because the shell is lifting, just not jockeying in place. Perplexing.
 
I'm in the middle of nowhere and the guy to go for with these problems is usually me but with all the problems I just figured a shotgun expert or auto 5 expert would be best
 
Difficult not being able to physically see it. Hope you get it figured out. I'm sure others are researching it and somthing will pop up.
 
Just read one thing not covered here. Check for any signs of contact of the sides of the carrier and receiver. One person had same issue of lift and he found scratches in that area and he sanded the sides of the carrier to insure no drag and it fixed the problem. Most others just needed disassembly and complete cleaning and lube.
 
The thing is decently covered in lubriplate I'll go clean it thoroughly but it's not dirty

I also didnt see any scratches on the shell lifter
 
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