My gun is jamming

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1moa@500

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I have been shooting my kimber 1911 stainless for 11 years. I started loading for it 6 months ago and have had reliability issues from the start. Here is the load I am using. Range brass sized in a lee carbide die screwed down to the shell holder. CCI 300 large pistol primers. 5.2 grains of Winchester 231. I have been using 200grn swc seated to an overall length of 1.250 and then ran through the factory crimp die. My calipers tell me that the crimp applied is .471. I have asked some of the guys at my local range that I shoot idpa with what I can do but I dont get any hard answers. I am getting getting about 3-5 jams per hundred, usually in the middle of a stage:cuss:. Any advise would be aprecciated. Thanks in advance JSWIII
 
What kind of jam are you getting? Are positive that it is ammo related? I mean, is it possible that you have some weak springs or such? Is this the first time the gun has seen a SWC profile?
 
Just a guess but that charge is a little light for a full size 1911. It might not cycle the slide reliably. I charge 5.5gr W231 with a 230gr bullet for my son's Springfield 1911.

There are so many things that can cause problems like Mags and the above mentioned springs. The type of problem you're having can give us a clue so we might be able to help better.
 
My data shows:

200 GR. CAST LSWC

OAL at 1.225" (you list 1.250")

231 - - - Start__ 4.4 --- Max__5.6

I think your problem is to long OAL with that bullet. This will casue a decreased pressure due to more case capacity, and the profile of the bullet will strike the ramp and angle up instead of sliding into the chamber.

Adjust your length, try 10 shots of your 5.2 grain load, and 10 shots 5.4 grain load.

If this fails to correct the problem, look at the magazine. Your magazine may be too narrow on the front "lips" with that style of bullet, and you may see small scratches in the lead.
 
"...usually in the middle of a stage..." Naturally.
Pitch the range brass. You have no idea what has been done to it or how many times it has been loaded.
"...that charge is a little light for a full size 1911..." I don't think the load is the issue. 5.6 is max with 231. 3 or 5 jams out of 100 suggests a light powder load. If the slide doesn't come back far enough to eject the empty every time, the ammo isn't right.
What kind of powder thrower are you using? You might, I say again, might be seeing the occasional light powder charge.
3 or 5 jams out of 100 isn't the springs or the feed ramp either. It screams that the powder charge isn't the same for every round.
Load 100 or so with the same load, but weigh each charge, using new brass. Yes that's a lot, but an unreliable load is worse than useless.
 
Can't help diagnose your problem without knowing what type of jam you are getting. Is the bullet jamming as its being fed from the magazine or is the case getting jammed from improper ejection? .45 SWC's are the most problematic bullet type to get reliable feeding.
 
The Kimber ran for 11 years without problems, so it's not the gun. Too light a load, possibly. Too long an O.A.L., possibly. Try those first like posters have recommended.

Magazines are another good place to look. Mark your mags and see if it is the same one doing it. Mag springs get weak. Recoil springs get weak. (11years)
 
Hey Walkalong, it could be springs for sure, but I am going to have to go with the OAL because of this statement:

I started loading for it 6 months ago and have had reliability issues from the start.

If he has been trying the 200 gr. swc all along at that OAL then that could be his problem. Take it down to the 1.225 OAL first. Course like the others have said it would help to know what kind of jam it is.
 
I use a similar load in my S&W 1911PD Commander with 200 gr Lasercast SWC. I initially seated a 1.225 but had feeding problems so on the advice of someone else I moved it out to 1.250 w/5.3 gr W231, LFCD to .470 and it feeds great. With that said, each gun has it likes and dislikes so what works for me may not work for you.

I agree with some others here, that if you can provide a little better detail on the type stoppage it may be helpful in determining the cause.
 
Some of the information listed above is goofy and some of it is good. But having said that. We still need to know what type of jam you are having. Soooo...

What type of jam are you having?? Failure to goto battery? Failure to extract? Stove piping? failure to chamber? What?
 
I have problems with my 45 ACP loads as well. I shoot a Sig P220, have changed the spring, bought and use a Lee Factory crimp and still have problems. My issue is the rounds will not feed completely into the chamber. One out of every 14 or so. The spent rounds will eject but the slide will hang open just enough to not allow the next round to fire.

The Dove
 
In addition, it shoot factory ammo just fine and I've checked the length of my reloads and am within specs.

The Dove
 
45 acp

carbide die screwed down to the shell holder.
The space between the die and shell holder should be about the thickness of a nickel coin. Set you COL to .947" what is shown in the photo. You powder charge looks ok. Put some Break Free CLP on the frame Rails/magazine. Some range brass might have rough rims that keep the round for sliding up the face of the bolt smoothly. Also check the rounds that jam for a rim diameter that is oversize. If you want ACCURACY and RELIABILTIY buy some new brass, they last forever unless lost. View attachment 400622
 
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How much of the shoulder is above the case mouth?

My experience with loading 185 and 200gr SWC bullets in the .45 acp is that overall length is not what I should monitor, it's the amount of shoulder visible above the case. It should be about a fingernail thickness. Even the H&G molds varied considerably as to nose length, nose diameter, and other dimensions.

I separate my cases by headstamp, but I have not seen any difference when I use mixed cases.

It may be that you need a heavier charge.
 
What powder are you using Mr Dove? I had problems with my Kimber using AA #7. Incomplete combustion would leave unburned residue behind in the chamber causing the slide to not go completely to battery...Look there and see if that might be the simple fix...
 
Everyone!
Color a round, including the bullet shoulder, with a black Magic-Marker and chamber it.

Where the black rubs off is where it is getting stuck.

Wad-cutters and 1911 match barrels are especially prone to jam the shoulder into the short leade and stop the slide from closing completely.
SIGS too!

Magic-Marker folks!!!!!!!!

rc
 
Remove the barrle. Drop some loaded rounds in the chamber. Use the attached illustration as a guide for over all length.
 

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thanks for all the info guys! the jam I am getting is a failure to go into battery. This gun gets new springs every 3000 rounds so i doubt it is the recoil spring. I went and shot 100 factory rounds today without a problem. I did notice two problems that i picked up here. I think that the oal is too long and there is not enough crimp on the bullet. I am sure the gun is not the issue and the operator/reloader is the problem. thanks guys JSWIII

P.S. The only pink and purple markers in my house are in the the girls playroom.:neener:
 
I adjusted the taper crimp and everything is fine now. Thanks for the information guy's. Great illustration Iron Sight.

The Dove
 
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