My S&W 66 is spitting.

[Amadeus]

I have a smith and wesson 66. It's about 10 years old and has been pretty well loved. Cleaned as soon as it was shot. And lives in it's case on the shelf.

But I really don't know how many rounds I've put through it. It's gotta be a few thousand. Most of that was .38 special. But lately it's been spitting grit from around the cylinder. It's more noticable when I shoot .357. Last time I got a little fleck of something splashing back at me.

Could the timing be off? What causes that? What can be done to determine and then correct the problem?

 

[Jim March]

Take away it's chewing tobacco.



Seriously: check the barrel/cylinder alignment on all cylinders at full lockup. See also "the checkout".

 

[bountyhunter]

Check the "carry up" which means cock the gun or pull the trigger slowly and make sure the cylinder fully rotates into the position where it locks into the cylinder bolt (under the cylinder) before the hammer falls. If it is coming up short, it will shave lead and spit.

 

[Jim K]

Before worrying about the cylinder gap or lockup, get a lead remover (Brownells has the Lewis) and clean out the cone at the rear of the barrel. That area is difficult to clean and when it gets lead buildup, the result you describe can happen.

There may be a more serious problem, but I would try that first.

Jim

 

[one45auto]

My S&W 66 is spitting.

That's not good form, for guns or women.

 

[Blueduck]

Brownells sells a "Range rod" to let you know if bbl/cylinder alignment are ok, it's possible that even if a gun is carrying up well and locks up tight one or more cylinders could be off kilter from the bb/forcing cone. Looking at the burn marks at the front of the cylinder often clue you in to this if one is dramatically different than the others (bigger "star" deeper burn marks etc..)

If your into revolvers and expect to buy more in 38/357's the range rod, and set of feeler gauges (can be used with any caliber) would help you determine the problem. If it's your only revolver for awhile and cleaning does not work might not be cost efficient to buy those things. Just send to S/W or elsewhere.

FWIW, S/W has usually taken 6-10 weeks on non warranty work I've sent in so don't plan on it being back real quick but a gun only 10 years old or so you might get the work done for free

E-mail at: [email protected] for details

 

[Jim March]

The alternative to the range rod is the "flashlight trick" allowing you to visually check the barrel-to-cylinder-bore alignment. Cheaper and works with multiple calibers although too long a barrel with too small a bore and it's very difficult bordering on impossible.

But a 38/357 with a 4" or even 6" barrel is usually compatible with "flashlighting".

 

[Valkman]

This is interesting, because my M66 is about the most accurate gun I own and it does the same thing. I've wound up with a cut on my face from the stuff flying! When I asked a range dude what was wrong he said "They all do it".

I haven't worried about it since but I've only shot it once since.

 

[ruger357]

It is still under warranty, send it back to S&W. I have sent a couple of guns back to them in the past and have recieved them back in two weeks.

 

[Blueduck]

When I asked a range dude what was wrong he said "They all do it".

Range dude is wrong. A little sideblast is normal for any revolver but if stuff is coming back at your face there is a problem that needs addresed.

 

[Lone Star]

If you're shooting on an indoor range, powder residue from the barrel/cylinder gap may be hitting the sides of the range position and be bouncing back. I think I've felt that on occasion.

Lone Star

 

[Amadeus]

Follow up questions and stuff.

If you're shooting on an indoor range, powder residue from the barrel/cylinder gap may be hitting the sides of the range position and be bouncing back. I think I've felt that on occasion.

No. That's a good theory. But the spitting is a new symptom. Someone mentioned it's still under warrantee. Even after ten years???? Really????

What is a range rod and how's it work?

If I DO find the gun is out of time or needs some sort of adjustment what's the remedy I should expect a gunsmith to use?

 

[Amadeus]

(Brownells has the Lewis) and clean out the cone at the rear of the barrel.

CONE??? I see nothing resembling a cone. Only the breech end of the barrel. It does have some buildup though. Between the underside of the top of the frame and the barrel.

 

[Blueduck]

Forcing cone is the end of the bbl opposite of the muzzel (end of bbl your cylinder closes against). It's what your looking at, it's just not really a cone shape on the outside

It's basically a bit of free bore (no rifleing) that kind of forces the bullet leaving the cylinder to enter the true bbl correctly alighned. Used to be called the "shepard" for that reason.

 

[Paul "Fitz" Jones]

Lewis Lead removers

I have one .41 and several .38 caliber conversion kits for someone that already has the Lewis rod and some extra screens. Thanks for reminding me to clean my 60 and 66.

Paul