My S&W Model 642 is wearing out! Possible fixes?

[Ethan Verity]

My S&W Model 642 has somewhere between 4,000 and 5,000 rounds through it thus far, roughly 1/4 of that being +P. The center pin hole in the frame is starting to oval (egg) in shape, making the lock up a bit sloppy.



Close up:


I don't think it's from trying to push the cylinder open before fully pushing the latch, because I'm aware not to do that... and the hole is deformed at the bottom (not just to the side). I believe this was caused by recoil force.

I always hear these revolvers should outlast you, but I guess actually shooting them a lot is not normal?

Anyway, I was wondering what reputable gunsmiths would be able to fix something like this, with a metal bushing insert perhaps? Is it even worth fixing? Does it need to be fixed? Maybe it's one of those things where it will only get so bad, then stabilize?
Since the damage is in the frame, which is the serialized part, it can't just be replaced.

I'm guessing I have a few thousand more rounds before it's definitely time to fix or retire it. If I have to replace it I've learned my lesson; rarely shoot the next one!

 

[unclenunzie]

It couldn't hurt to call S&W. My 642-2 fared worse than yours - only 250 rounds through it and the hammer pin sheared off. It still worked, to it's credit but of course had to get sent in. They are replacing the frame and will cover the FFL transfer fee. Even though yours has to be older (mine was NIB 2015), maybe they will fix it or replace it at no cost to you as well.

 

[trackskippy]

If the 642 is what you like, Id just buy another and send that one back to S&W and see what they say. Best to always have a spare/backup anyway, and better yet, a range version of what you carry too, so you can shoot it to death in practice and it doesn't affect what you carry.

The guns are the cheap part of the equation anyway, compared to the cost of ammo expended in practice.

 

[Jim Watson]

Physically, the hole could be bushed, or a larger pin put on the bolt.
Finding somebody willing to mess with it would be the trick.

 

[Pat Riot]

I would call S&W and see what they say.

https://www.smith-wesson.com/customer-service/contact-us

 

[EmGeeGeorge]

Have a 442 with similar wear- S&W called it normal wear.
That one is a “truck” gun now; I have another new model 442 that is for carry and occasional shooting.

 

[JCooperfan1911]

Is it spitting? How’s your endshake measurements?

If the gun is functioning, apply a spot of grease to prevent more wear and carry on.

 

[Ethan Verity]

Is it spitting? How’s your endshake measurements?

If the gun is functioning, apply a spot of grease to prevent more wear and carry on.

It's still operational at the moment.... and for now that's what I'll do. I just don't think it will last much longer.

 

[chicharrones]

That’s pretty much normal wear for an aluminum alloy frame with a steel center pin sliding across it, in my experience.

Steel frames last longer in that area.

Simply the price of actually using a lightweight carry gun, IMO.

I gotta admit that I’ve polished the tips of center pins and add a touch of grease to reduce that kind of wear.

 

[Riomouse911]

^^ This is what I expect with the lightweight alloy S&W 642-442 models as well. I have one of each that show a touch of recoil shield scarring from the center pin, even my 317 .22 has it. Mine don’t (yet) have the oval shaped center pin hole, but I certainly haven’t shot mine as much as you have.

I think that you may be reaching the end of its service life after 5k rounds, the alloy just isn’t as durable as the steel framed revolvers S&W make.

Stay safe.

 

[Jonesy814]

I'll have to take a close look at my 638. Pretty sure I have shot over 3,000 rounds through it. I like carrying a J frame so much that back in mid 2019, when guns were cheap, I bought a 442 for a back up in case the 638 ever broke

 

[aaaaa]

^^ This is what I expect with the lightweight alloy S&W 642-442 models as well. I have one of each that show a touch of recoil shield scarring from the center pin, even my 317 .22 has it. Mine don’t (yet) have the oval shaped center pin hole, but I certainly haven’t shot mine as much as you have.

I think that you may be reaching the end of its service life after 5k rounds, the alloy just isn’t as durable as the steel framed revolvers S&W make.

Stay safe.

only 5000 rounds? I already have put nearly 500 through my 642 . Time to lay it aside and shoot something else.

 

[Gordon]

if they had just pressed a steel or brass bushing in there !

 

[Tacoma]

It's got a lifetime warranty. Send it to SW.

 

[Riomouse911]

only 5000 rounds? I already have put nearly 500 through my 642 . Time to lay it aside and shoot something else.

These type of lightweight revolvers are often nicknaned “ carry a lot, shoot a little” guns due to their easy carry but less than fun recoil with self defense rounds. Most users will get decades out of a 442-642 before they hit 5000 rounds.

Stay safe.

 

[earplug]

Smith and Wesson won't cover their life time warranty. I had the same problem. I tried fitting a round bushing but the center pin operation and recoil made it come loose.
I filed a dovetail in the recoil shield and fit a steel insert larger then the ejector star that went from the hand window to the edge of the recoil shield. I used epoxy and a roll pin through the recoil shield to hold it secure. I have a set of S&W tools to insure the center pin fit the bolt hole. Works fine.
A person with a EDM machine would be able to do this as a repair service.

 

[Tallball]

I have a nice, fairly new 642 that I use for carry. I carry one of three different lightweight snubbies, depending on my clothing and activity. I shoot a cylinder of mild range ammo through them occasionally.

As I've gotten older, I do most of my snub practice with an inexpensive 2" steel-framed revolver. The practice seems to carry over just fine. Apparently, if you're practicing with one generic 2" snub revolver, you're kind of practicing with all of them.

That's my plan for trying to make my lightweight snubbies last as long as I do, anyway. YMMV.

 

[earplug]

We have been fooled thinking the Charter Arms design was inferior.

 

[edwardware]

My S&W Model 642 has somewhere between 4,000 and 5,000 rounds. . . Is it even worth fixing?

You're in the top 1% of 642 users. Pat yourself on the back, and buy a new one.

 

[Ethan Verity]

I found something which gives me some hope that this problem will not get even worse... notice that shiny half-moon shaped scar directly behind the cylinder stop.




The pin hole has egged out to the point that the back end of the cylinder is actually smacking off the bottom of the frame during the recoil impulse. Since it's now 'headspaceing' off the frame in this spot, I don't think the hole will continue to egg out in the frame beyond what has already occurred.

Though, it can still get worse in the direction of the cylinder opening... but perhaps the steel lockup pin at the front will limit that damage as well?

Looks like I'll just have to keep on shooting it, and see what happens.

 

[chicharrones]

We have been fooled thinking the Charter Arms design was inferior.

Charter Arms revolvers have some nifty design differences compared to a S&W, but the fact that the cylinder center pin sweeps across the slot for the hand/pawl . . . well, I think that's a design flaw.

If this steel frame Charter Arms is showing wear at the slot from the center pin, imagine how quickly that wear happens on alloy framed Charter Arms revolvers. Notice the round shaped chamfer forming across the hand/pawl slot, which causes the centerpin to want to stop in that slot.

Due to this, I open the cylinder by pulling the ejector rod from the front to reduce further wear. Can't do that with more modern CA revolvers with a shrouded ejector rod.

View attachment 1074354

 

[ThomasT]

I would call S&W and see what they say but I wouldn't expect much out of them. I sent them an older model 10 HB that they built with a .016 barrel to cylinder gap and it took them over 4 months just to send me an estimate to repair the gun. So I sent a check for $103 to make the gun right. No telling how long it will take before they actually do the repair and send the gun back. Ruger repair and responsibility for mistakes they aren't.

If you shot that gun between 4,000 and 5,000 times I would say you have got your monies worth out of it. You probably have over $2,000 just in ammo unless you reload for it. If you liked it that much I would just spend the $400 and buy a new one. Sell that one for a parts gun on GB. I bet you can still get a couple of hundred for it. If you want to shoot a snubby that much maybe buy a steel framed gun to replace it. A model 36 or model 60.

Just for grins one day I carried my model 30-1 with 2" barrel in 32 long just to see if the steel framed gun was that much worse than my 442. At first I noticed the small amount of extra weight but after half an hour I forgot it was there and it was no different than having my 442 in my pocket.

 

[aaaaa]

I would call S&W and see what they say but I wouldn't expect much out of them. I sent them an older model 10 HB that they built with a .016 bareel to cylinder gap and it took them over 4 months just to send me an estimate to repair the gun. So I sent a check for $103 to make the gun right. No telling how long it will take before they actually do the repair and send the gun back. Ruger repair and responsibility for mistakes they aren't.

If you shot that gun between 4,000 and 5,000 times I would say you have got your monies worth out of it. You probably have over $2,000 just in ammo unless you reload for it. If you liked it that much I would just spend the $400 and buy a new one. Sell that one for a parts gun on GB. I bet you can still get a couple of hundred for it. If you want to shoot a snubby that much maybe buy a steel framed gun to replace it. A model 36 or model 60.

Just for grins one day I carried my model 30-1 with 2" barrel in 32 long just to see if the steel framed gun was that much worse than my 442. At first I noticed the small amount of extra weight but after half an hour I forgot it was there and it was no different than having my 442 in my pocket.

And stay away from the titanium cylinder unless you want some ammo restrictions. Either way the titanium erodes or something like that, but some ammo accelerates the erosion. guess one needs to stick with stainless steel for reliability and lots of fun shooting.
https://www.all4shooters.com/en/shooting/culture/titanium-cylinders/

 

[jdc1244]

Another ‘solution’ is to not shoot is so much.

I’ve sent ten rounds through my 642 – an unpleasant experience, to say the least.

I’ll likely not shoot it again save for in lawful self-defense.

 

[aaaaa]

Another ‘solution’ is to not shoot is so much.

I’ve sent ten rounds through my 642 – an unpleasant experience, to say the least.

I’ll likely not shoot it again save for in lawful self-defense.

Well, the 642 definitely is not one to be shot a lot. I did not find it unpleasant to shoot mine, but I have a Hogue Tamer grip on it, which is really nice for shooting, but not so nice for pocket carry as the butt end tends to show in the pocket opening..