My Smith...ba..roke!!

[chrt396]

Up until 1 1/2 years ago...I had only two guns. Ruger MK I .22 and a S&W 686 38/357. I bought them in or around the mid to late 80's. Never shot them for YEARS!! 1 1/2 years ago..I got heavy into the shooting sports and have been able to get a few hand guns and rifles. I also got into reloading..so I now have a single stage and a Dillon 550B. I'm too deep in to inventory to get out now!!

I bought a Ruger LCR .38 with CT grips the other day...for pocket carry..and I LOVE the gun! Because I liked it so much..I decided to buy equipment needed for the caliber for my Dillon. I figured..now that I'm reloading the caliber on a Dillon, that I'll probably shoot my S&W 686 more as well! All I've ever shot out of the 686 is a few .357 rounds..maybe 100 over the past year or so. I load up 250 rounds of .38..label em' and stuff em. I then decide to clean my revolvers and shine em' up. As I'm wiping it down on the outside..I pulled back the hammer..and it felt gritty. I put a little oil down at the bottom of the hammer..and tried again...gritty..and then I noticed that the hammer was not going back evenly. It would veer to the left side as I pulled back. The grittiness I felt was the hammer rubbing on the frame. I pulled the side plate off and the hammer just about fell out. The stud that is attached to the frame that secures the hammer apex at the base of the hammer was snapped off. It took me a while to figure out that it was broken. I was in denial.

Called S&W customer service this morning and asked if it was under warranty..and he stated that it was not. My gun was made in 1987 and the lifetime warranty started in 1989. So...shipped it out and I guess I'll have to wait until S&W calls me with an estimate. He estimated around $75, but I'm sure that I will end up spending more as details emerge.

I thought these revolvers were bullet proof!!! I have shot my 1911's with zero problems..all my plastic guns...zero problems. Other than sights and springs..they have run flawlessly. Thousands of rounds through them.

Revolver...300-400 rounds and kapoot! I was really looking forward to becoming more in tune and intimate with the revolver segment of shooting. Not sure if that's a great idea.

 

[Stophel]

Stuff happens.

For your one very unusual experience, there are countless others that have never had such a problem.

 

[wanderinwalker]

Sorry you're without your 686. But S&W will make it right and you'll be up and under way.

Seriously, I always figure the test of a new gun is the first 300-500 rounds. If something is going to break, it will be in this window. (I don't just know Murphy, I think I have him on speed-dial...) Most of the revolvers I've purchased have been used and I'm pretty sure the previous owners shot enough rounds to make sure they were OK.

 

[chrt396]

WHOA IS ME!! Figures..that I'd be that lucky one!!

 

[MrBorland]

I then decide to clean my revolvers and shine em' up.

Did your cleaning involve removing the side plate perchance?

When removing the side plate (rarely needed, btw), it's best to back the strain screw off beforehand - otherwise, a lot of strain is transmitted to the hammer stud. It can be enough stress to break it, especially when the curious sort then adds more even stress to the stud by also cycling the action.

 

[BADUNAME37]

Call them right away and ask them, while they have it if they could clean up the trigger pull and make the action identical for every pull of the trigger for each cylinder hole - in double action!

They will do it as I had them do it to my gun that was there (brand new gun in for warranty work, never been shot)! They did replace several parts and the gun has the sweetest trigger now (it's a 642). They also chamfered each of the five rear cylinder openings.

I paid about $80 for that service and to me, that was well worth it!

It also took about another week longer to get it back on account of my extra work I had them do, but I don't regret paying that $80 for the manufacturer who made my gun do the trigger job and action job on it!

 

[Old Fuff]

The Old Fuff is full of good news...

This is the second hammer or trigger stud breakage reported in recent days. When one does break the revolver has to go back to the factory because the studs are press fit into the frame. Replacement requires special equipment that apparently only they have. They can replace a stud once, but after that a new frame is required. Having two studs break is highly unlikely, but when you get it back you might consider a trade for a Ruger GP100. They have occasional problems too, but not this particular one.

 

[BYJO4]

Anything can break on any make gun. S&W will repair and sure the cost will be resonable.

 

[351 WINCHESTER]

Don't feel too badly. I bought a Glock 19 that went back to them twice before it was fixed.
S & W will make it right. Personally I think a lot of hammer stud issues is due to the way some folks cock the hammer single action. You don't want to exert too much downward pressure. During d/a shooting there is almost no pressure on the stud which is supported on the frame and sideplate.

 

[gpb]

Are there any specific S&W revolver models or frame sizes that should not be used in single action?

 

[351 WINCHESTER]

Not that I am aware of. Some models are double action only which isn't a bad thing imho. Just learn to cock the hammer with as little downward pressure as possible and you should be fine.

 

[45_auto]

Just learn to cock the hammer with as little downward pressure as possible and you should be fine.

You can cock the hammer with all the downward pressure you can possibly exert on it and it won't bother it at all. This has to be one of the silliest things I've ever read.

 

[Racinbob]

Mr. Borland, that is the first time I've heard that. But it makes good sense! I've never done it (backed out the strain screw) but you can bet I will now. Think, remove the top plate from a stud wall and now the studs are standing only being supported by the bottom plate. Pretty weak.

 

[skt239]

Things break, it happens. Make another call to S&W and ask to speak to a higher up. They have excellent CS and if you talk to the right person you maybe able to work something out.

 

[jad0110]

Revolver...300-400 rounds and kapoot! I was really looking forward to becoming more in tune and intimate with the revolver segment of shooting. Not sure if that's a great idea.

Broken studs in revolvers are a rarity, but they do happen from time to time. Kinda the equivalant of a Toyota Camry spinning a main bearing with only 20,000 miles on the odometer.

Yes, lucky you! Don't sweat it, S&W will fix it right.

 

[Guillermo]

They have occasional problems too, but not this particular one.

Old Fuff,

I can't believe that you would suggest that a Ruger can be broken.

They are "built like a tank" (say the fanboys)

To the OP
The chances of breaking again are low. I would get it back and enjoy it. A pre IL, MIM 686 is generally a darned good revolver.

 

[JohnBT]

"say the fanboys"

And say the people who know more than just a little bit about guns, too.

 

[Old Fuff]

Well of course you can break a Ruger, but usually you really have to work at it.

Having a hammer or trigger stud break is rare, and I've only had it happen once - a trigger stud on an early pre-model 36 Chief Special - and over the years I've owned or handled a lot of S&W revolvers.

At one time (prior to the end of World War Two) a broken stud was not a big issue because they were threaded into the frame, and could be easily replaced in the field. But then they changed to save money and the studs were pressed in instead. This means that the revolver has to go back to the factory, and the stud (at least in theory) can only be replaced once, and after that a new frame is required. Personally I can think of a less expensive alternative.

Part of the problem is that there should be a small radius where the stud meets the boss, and the hammer's hole countersunk to match. Sometimes this was done, and sometimes it wasn't.