Need a better Kintic bullet puller.

[Analogkid]

I have several thousand rounds of 38sp and several rounds of 357 special to take down. I'm trying to save it all as components. This lot is all jhp ammo.


I cannot use a collet puller, the bullets are 125 grain Magtech guardian gold 125gr. Just cant get a hold of them with the 2 collet pullers I have purchased and not screw the bullets up. Just not enough straight wall exposed on either of the cartridges.

I have another huge lot of 38sp wadcutters I want to eventually tackle as well. I have several 50cal ammo boxes of that.

I know its a tall task to ask of a Kinetic puller but is there one out there that may be up to the task? I started out using a Frankford Arsenal kinetic puller but this is the results below after 400 or so rounds. Red oak block was impact surface.

Aluminum handle broke at the head. Throw out your ides.

 

[PCCUSNRET]

I have one of the RCBS and they replaced it once when the threaded section broke off with the threaded nut still attached. They have also replaced the aluminum case holder a couple of times when they broke. If you haven't done so, you might call Frankford Arsenal and see if it has a lifetime warranty like the ones from RCBS.

 

[rcmodel]

This is as good as it gets.

The chuck alone will save you a lot of time.

http://www.quineticscorp.com/index.asp


Might I ask why you have so many rounds to pull down??

rc

 

[Analogkid]

I have sent frankford a email asking them about it. The local gun store I purchased it from asked me to take it up with Frankford as a warranty issue. I didn't see a warranty on it on their website.



I was gifted the large amount of reloaded ammo and I want to take it down for components. I have shot a ton the 38sp wad cutters but the 38sp jhp and 357jhp is very anemic.

I Want to take it down and re load it myself.

 

[Ironicaintit]

Its not a framing hammer .
Ive got an RCBS puller from the 90s thats still doing fine.

Thats a whole lot of work for a kinetic puller. Are they roll crimped?

Id be tempted to weigh them all, then check for primer seating, neck tension, and OAL. Prune out any oddballs. After that, pull out 10+ of the lightest and heaviest of the bunch, to check powder weight and type.
If the weights checked out consistently okay and it was a powder that you cant doublestuff, id probably go ahead and run them.
If they turned out to be sloppily built, and/or had a really dense and fast powder, then I'd part them all out.
Calculate the time savings and go buy components!
...If it were me.

 

[kcofohio]

I have a Franklin Arsenal puller. Haven't broke it yet. But it seemed to take many whacks to pull heavier crimped 357s.

Bought an RCBS. It works much better than the Franklin. The Franklin is retired now.

 

[cfullgraf]

Red oak block was impact surface.

Ditch the wood block and get something that will not deform like a heavy piece of steel.

I use an old farrier's anvil.

The trouble with a striking surface like wood, even oak, it deforms too much under the blow wasting the energy of the swing. You have to swing harder which in turn is harder on the impact bullet puller.

With my anvil, I do not have to swing as hard and since the anvil does not deform, virtually no energy is wasted.

Even so, it may take several swings to dislodge a heavily crimped bullet or one with high neck tension.

 

[maxxhavoc]

Look at where your puller broke. There is no 100% perfect way to join metal to plastic. I have stripped collets on my RCBS from heavy use but the plastic parts just keep going.

 

[mdemetz]

My old RCBS was made by Quinetics, not sure if modern ones are.

 

[dh1633pm]

I had one of those. It didn't work as well as I would wanted. You may want to consider an RCBS or a Hornady die type puller.

 

[Analogkid]

I have both the collet syle rcbs and the hornady cam lock puller. They wont grab what little lip there is exposed. They work great on anything else though.

The aluminum broke 1/2" down into the neck of the hammer head none of the plastic on the unit broke. If you look close in the pic you can see the serrated end of the aluminum handle still in the hammer head


I can remove the round in 1-2 strikes off the oak block. So it must not be deforming much. All of these have a heavy crimp.

 

[Dudedog]

I have had good luck with my RCBS puller. I haven't pulled lots of rounds with it though. Looking at Midway from the pictures the Hornady and the Frankford appear to be the same, Lyman looks almost like the first two with a different handle. The RCBS looks changed form the one I have but appears to be all plastic.
I would have guessed that the metal would be stronger than the plastic but in your case it dosen't look like it. Wondering if yours just had a defect or if it is a design flaw in the puller.

From a safety standpoint I don't think weighing the rounds will get you anywhere. If you say maybe + or - 1gr for the bullets and + or - 2 to 4 gr for the cases you have maybe say a possible 5gr swing in correctly loaded rounds. (if not more). Even if the swing is on 2gr, a 2gr overcharge could be bad.

Even though it is a pain I think it is a good idea to pull them,

 

[Odd Job]

Another vote for the Quinetics puller.

 

[Sunray]

That's not broken. The glue holding the handle on let go. Epoxy will fix it.
"...the Quinetics puller..." Yep. Over 30 years of bashing it on a rock. Well, more like a sharp rap than a bash, but it's still 30 plus years. Misplaced my rock though.

 

[.452]

I agree about the metal surface vs wood surface. Thick plywood can be used too, but on the edge, not the sides (less flex). Eventually I found an-anvil vice to be best, with light sharp taps.


I prepare to strike 2 or 3 times per round, none of them bone breakers. Usually a first light tap followed by a slightly heavier tap then the last tap usually removed even the heaviest crimp. Let momentum work for you, not brute force. If it comes out on the first tap, you're hitting it too hard and stressing the tool way more than needed.

The nice thing about having so many of the same batch to download, once your tapping procedure is worked out, it's good to go for that whole batch.

Almost all the practice JHP's I shoot are pulls.

Some folks even keep the powder but I don't chance that ever.

 

[Ironicaintit]

I retract my previous statement. I reread and you said you shot them, and said the 357 were anemic.
So uh....nevermind! Carry on.
Invite a few friends over with kinetic pullers and BBQ then make an afternoon of it.

 

[Analogkid]

I can Assure you it is broken. The end of the handle is in the hammer head. The shaft broke clean through the aluminum.


The powder is all being thrown into the yard.

 

[bfoosh006]

Maybe these will work...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MQPsmgz_HAQ

 

[joem1945]

I use a Hornady Cam Loc bullet puller. It's installed in a Lee C frame press. I have pulled thousands of bullets with it. While your hammering out 1 with a kinetic puller, I'll have pulled 5 or more.

 

[Analogkid]

Must have not read any of the the Post's there joem1945

I cannot grab the Bullet with either of my rcbs or cam loc bullet pullers. Thanks for the comment though.

 

[Rule3]

I do not envy you situation of pulling than many bullets. That is sheer torture!

I pulled a boatload of XTP's with a RCBS collet type puller not sure why it will not work for you and the Magtechs?

My vote is the RCBS or Quinetic hammer

Buy both and find some unemployed, will work for food guys on the corner and have them do it.

 

[highlander 5]

I've had a Frankfort for at least 35 yrs,the only thing I did to it was replace the jaws with a set from Quinetics. I bought a used RCBS version used for $5 at a lgs used table. Personally I use a piece of 4x4 post to hammer on and in all honesty in 40 +years of reloading I'd maybe 10 cases I couldn't pull the bullet from.

 

[sellersm]

I'm the oddball here as I use the Lyman. My FA kinetic had issues as well and I switched to the Lyman which seems very solid compared to the FA.

That Quinetic looks awesome!

I usually use my collet puller for most rounds nowadays.

 

[X-Ring]

I use the Lyman also, it has a better feeling handle and a thicker shaft than the FA

 

[GW Staar]

Long before RCBS et al came out with their kinetics, we reloaders made our own. (in the 50's and 60's)



from expensive plumbing parts.

The critical step is to make absolutely sure the cartridge head can't possibly slip sideways in the tool's head and possibly cause the primer to go off with something touching the primer on impact.

I discovered a fail safe system using shell holders and epoxy keepers. But you can eventually crack even a cast iron cap with enough hard hits. The replacement Home Depot parts are cheap enough, but you soon learn that hard hits aren't necessary.

I posted a how-to at AR15.com years ago, because they make such efforts sticky. If you're curious.....https://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_42/294139_The_Original_Kinetic_Bullet_Puller__Improved_.html