Woodenshoe
Member
- Joined
- May 25, 2014
- Messages
- 5
Hello all,
I just wrote quite an introduction, as I'm both new to this forum as well as new to black powder shooting, and wrote a suggestion on how to repair a broken bolt spring on a 1860 colt reproduction (I had to figure that out for my 1860 Pietta Sheriff), but then my laptop decided to go low on power.... All gone.... ;-(
Oh, well, I didn't want to deprive you of my idea of how to fix a broken bolt spring, so here's a second try. But I'll keep it shorter for now ;-)
I noticed today, that after full-cock the cylinder still seemed to rotate. It turned out that the spring's bolt-finger was broken. The trigger finger of it was still OK though.
I solved it with just a ballpoint-spring, two pliers and all well within 30 minutes.
And best of all, it seems to be a good permanent fix when carried out well (at least, so it seems to me).
Keep about 1/4" of a ballpoint spiral spring as is, and at both sides of this 1/4" spring part just bend the remaining spring into straight ends of about 1" each, both going in the same outward direction. Cut off the remainder. The trick is, to bend a small round eye at each of these straight legs (after cutting them to the right length). These eyes go around the visable part of the bolt's bolt (they go in the slit in the bolt's midst). With both legs attached around the bolt's bolt, one end of the 1/4" spring part sits on top of the far end of the bolt. Looking into the mechanics towards the cylinder, is in fact looking into the spiral of the 1/4" spring part. With the bolt in the engaged (cylinder locked) position, and one end of the spiral resting on the bolt's end, you should see the other end of the spiral stick out well above the casing. Thus, when we mount the trigger guard plate on it, that end of the spiral will be pressed down, which sets the spiral spring under tension, and will provide the lock up-force for the bolt. Chances are that a second or third ballpoint will have to be ruined to get it right, but mine worked straight away! The windings of the about 1/4" spring, when compressed, should not be higher than the distance from the bolt's end to the top of the casing (in half cock). At the same time, the 1/4" spring part should have an non-compressed length of two or so windings greater than the distance from the bolt end to the top of the casing (in full cock). Best determine the actually needed spring part length first, in stead of taking the 1/4" mentioned (that 1/4" was just to give an idea of approximate size).
Of course, check for a flawless bolt action first, before shooting...
Have fun you all!
I just wrote quite an introduction, as I'm both new to this forum as well as new to black powder shooting, and wrote a suggestion on how to repair a broken bolt spring on a 1860 colt reproduction (I had to figure that out for my 1860 Pietta Sheriff), but then my laptop decided to go low on power.... All gone.... ;-(
Oh, well, I didn't want to deprive you of my idea of how to fix a broken bolt spring, so here's a second try. But I'll keep it shorter for now ;-)
I noticed today, that after full-cock the cylinder still seemed to rotate. It turned out that the spring's bolt-finger was broken. The trigger finger of it was still OK though.
I solved it with just a ballpoint-spring, two pliers and all well within 30 minutes.
And best of all, it seems to be a good permanent fix when carried out well (at least, so it seems to me).
Keep about 1/4" of a ballpoint spiral spring as is, and at both sides of this 1/4" spring part just bend the remaining spring into straight ends of about 1" each, both going in the same outward direction. Cut off the remainder. The trick is, to bend a small round eye at each of these straight legs (after cutting them to the right length). These eyes go around the visable part of the bolt's bolt (they go in the slit in the bolt's midst). With both legs attached around the bolt's bolt, one end of the 1/4" spring part sits on top of the far end of the bolt. Looking into the mechanics towards the cylinder, is in fact looking into the spiral of the 1/4" spring part. With the bolt in the engaged (cylinder locked) position, and one end of the spiral resting on the bolt's end, you should see the other end of the spiral stick out well above the casing. Thus, when we mount the trigger guard plate on it, that end of the spiral will be pressed down, which sets the spiral spring under tension, and will provide the lock up-force for the bolt. Chances are that a second or third ballpoint will have to be ruined to get it right, but mine worked straight away! The windings of the about 1/4" spring, when compressed, should not be higher than the distance from the bolt's end to the top of the casing (in half cock). At the same time, the 1/4" spring part should have an non-compressed length of two or so windings greater than the distance from the bolt end to the top of the casing (in full cock). Best determine the actually needed spring part length first, in stead of taking the 1/4" mentioned (that 1/4" was just to give an idea of approximate size).
Of course, check for a flawless bolt action first, before shooting...
Have fun you all!