Need black powder advice

[JLaw]

I've got the itch to get into black powder shooting, and I think I know what I want but am not really sure what I need. First off, here's what I'm looking at....

http://www.dixiegunworks.com/product_info.php?cPath=22_162_194&products_id=3450

I'm looking for something to occupy some time in the evenings, thus the gun kit and not an assembled gun. I'm thinking single shot because, well honestly, I don't want the hassle of cleaning up a b.p. revolver right now, maybe if I enjoy the single shot I'll step into a b.p. revolver soon. The only purpose of this pistol is to have some fun at the range, finish out the pistol my way, and learn about black powder shooting.

What other gizmos besides powder, balls, & caps will I need to purchase to get this pistol shooting once it's built? Any recommended cleaning supplies, accessories, etc?

JLaw

 

[Chawbaccer]

Pillow ticking, capper, ball starter, nipple wrench. And I suggest a bench loading rod, like a ramrod but with a ball on the end, easier on hand.

 

[JLaw]

Pillow ticking??? What's that?

JLaw

 

[Loyalist Dave]

Pillow ticking is a thick cotton fabric. You can find it at Walmart, BUT read the lable on the end of the fabric bolt and be sure it's 100% cotton. It is used in small pieces to form a gasket around the ball, and allow the rifling to spin the ball for stable flight.

You will also need a powder measure, and a sewing needle to keep the nipple clean. If you buy precut patches, then you don't need the ticking. IF you buy the ticking, you will need a knife to cut it at the muzzle.

I would recommend your second purchase to be a rifle, not a revolver. While I like my 1858 Remingtons, I find more satisfaction by hitting a target at 75 yards+ with a BP rifle, than a tight group with my revolver. In fact BP revolvers are such a sub-category, they really deserve their own subject area on this or any forum (imho).

If you want an inexpensive rifle, check out pawn shops and gun shops near to tax time. I have found many caplock rifles for beginners at less than the cost for a really good, new revolver (i.e. under $200)

LD

 

[Plink]

I think that's a great first kit. I've built a few Traditions guns and they usually go together without too much fuss. Just remember that they aren't a "completed gun" minus the finish. They need some adjusting of inlets and sometimes screw holes need relocated which is no big deal. The wood needs a bit of final shaping and sanding, the metal parts are rough cast and need filing and sanding, etc. The kits are easy enough to do though, and you'll pick up a lot of useful skills from it.

As for needs, muzzleloaders are pretty simple. Powder, patches, lube, balls and caps to get you shooting. You'll also need a horn or flask to keep the powder in and a powder measure to measure your charge. I don't bother with a capper.

For cleaning, you'll need a jag if it doesn't come with the kit, and cleaning patches. The cleaning patches are larger than the shooting patches, though you can use shooting patches. You can buy both precut, or cut your own. Hot soapy water works fine for cleaning, as does a number of other routines. I use Ballistol mixed with water, and I use it for patch lube, gun oil, and metal protector also.

I'd recommend Hoppe's #9 Black Powder Solvent and Lube. The Hoppe's makes for a great patch lube that doesn't get grease all over your hands and gear. I don't recommend it as a solvent by itself though, as it sometimes leaves some of the corrosive salts behind and they cause rust. The hot soapy water method removes these. Be sure the metal is completely dry, then oil it to keep it from rusting. Wipe out any traces of oil before firing and you're good to go.

 

[Azrael256]

Pipe cleaners. Both the fat fuzzies and the Ream 'n Clean variety (with the nylon bristles embedded in the cotton) are a good way to go, just don't ram 'em in there when the gun is real hot or the nylon in the Ream 'n Cleans will melt (don't ask how I know that). Also, I prefer a proper nipple pick to a sewing needle, if only because they're harder to lose. If you're Johnny-on-the-spot with the pipe cleaners, you won't need to pick the nipple so much.

Splurge on the nipple wrench. Spend $20 for a spiffy one, even if it's not "historically accurate," and save the el-cheapo L-shaped thing for reenacting Gettysburg.

Do be very careful with this. I'm sure you know that BP guns are not toys, so I won't lecture on that. What I will lecture on is the addictive-like-heroin quality of these guns, and the kits in particular. Any time you've got a boring weekend ahead, you'll begin to contemplate running down to Cabelas for another kit. You'll start racing the clock to see how many Brown Bess and Navy kits you can do over Christmas. You'll tell your wife you're "out carousing with the guys" when you're really in the garage sanding a Hawken stock. Before long, you'll be sewing your own buckskins (that you harvested with your first Kentucky!), hammering knives out of leaf springs, and baking keepsake biscuits in the oven while you boil down your wad grease on the stove. I've seen it happen many, many times.

 

[old ironside]

To clean my revolver and musket I use boiling water and a few patches. I pour the water down the muzzle (while wearing a pot holder glove as the barrell gets hot) after taking the nipple off and it comes out the nipple hole. I then run a few patches down it, and pour a little more water to make sure and then the patches until dry and then bore butter($7.99 a tube at most places-it is a thompsons product). I put the bore butter on every piece of metal and run the pipe cleaner down the nipple and nipple hole best I can. takes less than 30 minutes for a 3 band musket.

 

[arcticap]

You will probably also need a pistol loading stand to hold the pistol upright while you load it. While a special stand is not necessary to load a rifle, it helps to have something to help secure it in the upright position.
Everyone is different, but building a gun isn't necessary to learn how to shoot muzzle loaders. Building a gun will help a person to... learn how to build a gun. But shooting one is really a different matter. If the kit doesn't go together very well, then your disappointment may lead you to not pursue the interest, or to be delayed.
Some kits don't go together as promised, almost as if they were made from rejected parts. We've had posts about this occurrence already. And building one doesn't teach about shooting and maintaining one.
I advocate to initially buy a finished gun while reading and learning all about the activity in order to enjoy it before progressing to building. I've seen the same gun that you want to buy in kit form available less expensive already finished. The extra money spent to finish the kit could go a long way toward purchasing another kit or gun once you decide that you truely enjoy the activity.
IMO, since single shot pistol performance isn't usually as consistent as rifle performance,you might end up being disappointed after investing a lot of extra time, effort and money just to try it out.

Whatever you choose to do, good luck and enjoy muzzle loading, whether it involves shooting, building or both.

 

[Plink]

Articap is right. You don't save anything by building a kit. By the time you add up the cost of metal and wood finish, sandpaper, and the extra tools you will inevitably end up buying, the kit always costs more. The only real reason to build kits in my opinion, is for the experience, to be able to make it look exactly how you want it, and the satisfaction of shooting something you built yourself.

I tend to gravitate towards kits because I have control of the outcome. I can epoxy bed parts to make a perfect fit, etc. I'm rarely happy with the fit and finish of factory assembled guns, at least the affordable ones. So a kit is my way of turning an inexpensive gun into a finely finished one.