Need help broken barrel!!!

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csd4682

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I bought a used 28" barrel for my pardner pump shotgun off of gunbroker. The listing said the barrel fit the H&R Pardner, and may fit various other models. When I got the barrel I took the 18.5" barrel off, and slid the new one into place. When I went to screw in the mag cap, I discovered that the ring on the barrel was higher up on the new barrel, so therefore the threads were covered, and I could not screw the cap in. I started really looking at the barrel, and it doesnt have any manufacture info on it, it just says 12ga
3" but all of the grooves at the end where it slides into the reciever are the same, so I dont know if the older models had a slightly longer mag tube or what. Well, being that rifle/shotgun hunting season came in yesterday, I was very frustrated, and after further inspecting this ring, I realized that the ring wasnt welded to the barrel, it is only attached using some kind of adhesive. My descision was to knock the ring off, and resecure it where it would fit my gun. I took the barrel into my shop, and with one swift knock with a rubber mallot, the ring came right off. So here is where we are at. What kind of adhesive should I use to connect the ring to the barrel, is this a safe thing to do, and final question if the barrel says 3", will it still accept 2 3/4" shells, or 3" only? I think JB weld is going to be my best option, but I want to get feedback before I do something stupid, and hurt myself.
 
Well, now im starting to think this is not a barrel for a h&r parder, but a remmington 870 barrel. The barrel support ring on the 28" barrel, has the detent ball on the front of it, the parder doesnt have this, its just a flat ring. I have read that you can make an 870 barrel work, anyone know how to do this.
 
I say it's not worth the possible danger using this barrel for the sake of buying a new barrel.

Unless that ring is somehow WELDED to the barrel, I envision someone shooting, having the barrel come loose from the ring, and the shooter not realizing it, having a small separation at the chamber and then the next shot is either DEADLY or removes part of a hand, arm, etc.

Take no chances!
 
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That will suck, H&R makes you send them your gun, and they fit the barrel, costs more for the barrel, then in does for a new gun. Its ridiculous. I was just looking at the barrel a little closer, and it looks like the ring is silver soldered (did I spell that right?)
 
You should have a Mossberg or another shotgun where you can just buy interchangeable barrels online.

Maybe just keep the H&R the way it is and think about an inexpensive pump shotgun that you can get different barrels for in the future.
 
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The breech block should lock into the barrel before the shotgun will allow the hammer to fall and the gun to fire, therefore I think the safety aspects of this situation are not too serious. The magazine cap hold everything together when you open the action. However, the barrel is tapered, so if you move the magazine ring forward, you are going to cause the barrel to be pulled down unless I am mistaken.
I have never seen a Remington barrel that didn't say "Remington" somewhere on it, but on those the magazine ring is silver soldered to the barrel. I would think you could shim the ring to obtain proper barrel to magazine tube spacing and then re-silver solder the ring to the barrel. Note: silver soldering does take some skill so one does not adversely affect the heat treatment of the barrel, and we are not talking sawing on a Perazzi here.
 
That will suck, H&R makes you send them your gun, and they fit the barrel, costs more for the barrel, then in does for a new gun.


H@R did the same thing with the single shots. Over 150 years after exchangeable parts were invented H@R could not get it right. Maybe that is why they were bought out and moved.
 
I have done hvac so the silver solder doesnt bother me, I actually love to solder, my biggest concern is damage to barrel, due to heat, even when using low heat, you still have to get the whole ring to a certian temp, before the solder will flow properly, therefore the barrel is going to get pretty hot. The way I see it, is i've already broken the barrel, I guess I will give it a shot, if I dont feel its safe after, I will chalk it up to learning, and search, the internet for a barrel that fits.
 
Well, I got the ring on, probably stronger hold than it was from the factory. The barrel locks up and feeds properly, but I gotta say, im a little scared to fire it. How bad can the heat really damage the barrel, Even when done soldering you could hold the barrel on both ends and touch a few inches away from where it got soldered. I did not use anything to cool the barrel down. I allowed it to cool slowly. Any thoughts as to if the barrel should be safe, or what damage could have been sustained to the metal.
 
I don't think barrels are heat treated per say. I have seen machine gun barrels start to glow a dull red color and not be hurt when they cooled. Heat treating makes steel hard and brittle, not good quality's for a barrel. And shotguns are pretty low pressure, around 11000 psi IIRC.
 
There must be a way to test the gun. However, any repairs you made yourself are not guaranteed.
 
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Well, I dont know what got into me, I quickly loaded a 00buck, and a #4buck 3" magnum into the gun, said a short prayer, and let her rip, gun works great. I put a few boxes of buckshot through it, taking the barrel off between boxes, and everything seems to be corrrect. (knock on wood). So I guess its going into the wood tomorrow morning. Thanks for everyones input. I also want to let everyone know, I called H&R yesterday to see about getting a new barrel. They told me that MArlin now handles the parder parts, so you may not have to send the gun to them anymore. I tried calling for 2 hours untill they closed and could not reach anyone. I will try again today.
 
I'm glad it worked out for you! It sounds like you saved yourself a lot of $$$ that you might have had to spend otherwise.
 
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