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need help finding 30-06 reloading data

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I have no experience reloading 30.06, but anyone that does would want to know what powder charge, bullet and primer you used. I could point you to some data, but would need to know the powder.
 
I load 30-06, but I'll need some specifics to help you out. Bullet, powder, primer, and firearm too. Also what type of load are you trying to build, target, hunting, varmit hunting, ect..

GS
 
Just to get this out of the way: What does your reloading manual say? What was your starting load, and what have you worked up to?

My experience has just been reloading for the Garand, and it's restrictions, so I'm not going to put anything out there for other guns, but I'm curious what bullet(s)/powder(s) have you tried? What type of gun are you shooting your reloads from?

One last thing that I'm curious about: who made your barrel? I don't think I've heard of a 1:7 30 cal barrel before, most commercial barrels are 1:10 or 1:12.
 
A 30-06 with a 1-7 twist would be almost a one of a kind 30-06 rifle barrel I think.

Are you sure thats what twist you have??

Are you sure its a 30-06?

rc
 
A 30-06 with a 1-7 twist would be almost a one of a kind 30-06 rifle barrel I think.

Are you sure thats what twist you have??

Are you sure its a 30-06?

rc
it is a 30-06 03-a3 that was sporterized at Fort Benning Georgia and a retired gunsmith who received his training at Fort Benning said it was a army marksman rifle so it is more than likely a one of a kind and on my first set of reloads I used 56 grains of imr4350 powder, a 165gr jhp bullet and a large rifle primer
 
I think someone is feeding you a line...

I would shoot some factory ammo to get a base for accuracy. Then start working up my loads. The charge you listed is a starting load; you mayy find better accuracy as you work up in charge weights.

What reloading manual are you using?
Brass Manufacturer?
Bullet Manufacturer?
Brand and Type of Dies?
 
Please measure and verify that twist rate. Put a jag on your cleaning rod with a tight fitting patch (might take two). Start it in the bore and mark the rod at the muzzle (or breech) with a magic marker. Put an index mark on the rod about 16" further out. Push the rod in until the index mark has turned one full revolution and mark the cleaning rod at the muzzle (or breech) once again.

When you get the cleaning rod out of the barrel measure the distance between the two marks and let us know how many inches per turn you have.

Also, can you post the receiver serial number (x out the last couple of digits if you want)? This really doesn't matter so much if its a A3 model.
 
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I load 30-06 in several weights. Never seen or heard of a 1:7" twist on one though could you give make and model?
The most time tested and universal 30-06 load I know of is 57gr IMR 4350 and a 165gr Game King SP, work up from 55gr seeing as that is a near max load. It sounds cookie cutter but that load works so darn well in my 06 it is my go to hunting load, that Game King at 2800+fps is a devastating piece of metal, never saw a 6" exit wound until I started using those.
 
If it is indeed a 1 in 7 twist it wouid dictate the need for bullets extremely heavy for calibre say 220 grs or higher and of a very strong makeup. In addition to this powders that create lower pressures at speeds around 2300 fps such as Hodgdons H1000 would be needed as well to keep the chance of over driving the bullet in the riflings. For the life of me I cant reason out why someone would opt for such a radical shortening of the rifle twist in a 30-06. Maybe longer for a dedicated lead bullet rifle but not shorter. To repeat the earlier poster on how to check your barrel twist rate I will try to clarify the proceedure for you. Using a rifle cleaning rod with a free pivoting handle put on your 30 calibre bronze bore brush and wrap a cleaning patch around the brush. Insert the brush into the muzzle end of the barrel appx. 4 inches. Now take a sharpie evermark pen directly at the end of the muzzle make a mark accross the cleaning rod. That being done now drag the sharpie down along the length of the rod on the 12:00 position for appx. 14 inches. This done now holding only the handle of the cleaning rod steadily push the rod into the barrel until the long index mark comes back to the 12:00 position and stop. Now make another mark accross the rod directly in front of the muzzle. Finish pushing the rod completely through the barrel and back out then measure the distance between the 2 marks accross the cleaning rod. This will tell you how many inches per one turn to determine the actual twist rate of your barrel. If it were any faster than 1 in 9 I personally would be looking to rebarrel myself. I think if you find it to indeed be 1 in 7 you are in for alot of grief. Hope this helps you.

10 Spot
 
Normally a charge of between 56.0gr and 57.0gr IMR4350 under a 168gr bullet is an extremely accurate 30-06 round. I really don't know about a 1/7 twist rate in any 30-06 unless it's a custom barrel for use with a very heavy and longer bullet for distance shooting. (distance read 1000 meters) If factory ammo using a 180gr bullet or lighter won't shoot well I suggest trying a Sierra 210gr MatchKing bullet if you really have a 7/1 twist barrel.

An easy way to verify the twist rate, use a tight patch on a cleaning rod, mark the top of the cleaning rod, pull the rod through the barrel until it twists one full turn, measure the length of the rod from where it started to the full turn. If that length it in fact 7 inches, you are correct your barrel is a 1/7 twist rate.
 
If it is really a 1:7 I would invest in some 240gr weldcores or if you can find some the 250gr Barnes. These are ultra heavy for the 30-06 or any 30 cal but the 1:7 will likely not overspin them at that low a speed. A better idea would be a new barrel, in 30 cal I have never seen the need for anything over a 1:10 or heck even the 1:12 on my 308 that is good up to 180gr boat tails, anything requireing a heavier bullet then that you should probably be using a larger caliber anyway.
 
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